Scuba accident in a swimming pool close to my house

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

What is interesting is that the marking on the valve is printed on it not stamped, so it could wear off
Likely to be laser etched into the nickel or chrome plating so would be pretty durable...
 
Thanks for that! That article specifically only references M25 x2 and 3/4 NSPM. There are other thread types I discovered, including 7/8 and 1/2, which are more common on steel cylinders.

at the marking on the valve is printed on it not stamped, so it could wear
It varies greatly from one valve to the next. Some are engraved. Some are superficial. Some have NO marking at all. Based on my unofficial survey of random valves I did earlier, around 50% have no marking indicating threading.

I actually ran into this problem yesterday when trying to buy valves online, and verify if they're 3/4 or 7/8.
 
There are other thread types I discovered, including 7/8 and 1/2, which are more common on steel cylinders.

There are two 1/2 " thread types, the 1/2 NPT that was the SCUBA industry standard, and 1/2 NPS which was used by a manufacturer, for a short time, before the 3/4 NPS won the bid as the new industry standard. When you put your SCUBA museum together, let me know, I think I have a 1/2 NPS valve in a bin around here somewhere.
 
It can be easy to get them mixed up if you don’t verify the thread pattern before using them. I keep a few of the M25x2 valves for spare parts if needed for the 3/4 NPSM valves. While an M25 will fit easily into a US cylinder, you won’t generally get the cylinder filled to it’s rated pressure before it blows off.
4F610521-6A9A-4A66-AB71-DEA05C90F855.jpeg
 
I keep a few of the M25x2 valves for spare parts if needed for the 3/4 NPSM valves.

Not sure I get you, are you saying that you would use the M25X2 valves in place of 3/4NPSM valves on tanks that are supposed to be made for the 3/4 NPSM valves???
 
I keep the M25X2 valves in case I need parts from them to work on the 3/4 NPSM valve. They are identical except for the thread pattern so the M25 valve can not be used on US cylinders. The 3/4 NPSM valves are very difficult to find. The M25X2 valves are still available outside of the US.
 
Meanwhile, in the US: "The Special Permit (SP) is expired as of 9/30/22. This means that any cylinder stamped with that SP9791 or E9791 is no longer valid for use, fill or transport in the US by law. It means that regardless if the cylinder still contains gas, or is still within its current hydro or inspection period, it is still not valid for fill, use or transport."
 
It means that regardless if the cylinder still contains gas, or is still within its current hydro or inspection period, it is still not valid for fill, use or transport."

In commercial use, which is what DOT controls, one probably won't get fills from your dive shop.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom