Scubapro R190/R380/R390 Nylock nut

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I've seen the seats that Awap made and they look and work perfect. They're so cheap you could replace them after every dive if you wanted to. When is he going to start making the balanced seats, I wonder? How about replacement seats for the D series? HP seats for the Mk5/10?

There are other ways to keep the nut in place on the R190 if you're in a jam and don't have a new nyloc nut. You can use two regular nuts, one as an adjusting nut, one as a lock nut (if there are enough threads) or you can use some fingernail polish, even a tiny spot of the weaker loctite would work.
 
Next you will be wanting to buy a sheet of neoprene and a hole punch to make new seats!

QUOTE]

Did that many times, works like a charm.
 
Thanks for the help. Now that I got the right nut size... then I will just stock a bunch of them in my box....

Just for S&G's what tool do you use to punch the seats? Like a leather punch or a Metal punch?

http://www.signs-derby.com/i//punch_kit.jpg

And is there any particular retailer you get the neoprene sheets from? Any specifics on the type or is it simply called neoprene sheets... I have to measure mine and see if I can pull this off...

Raw Materials > Rubber > Sheets and Strips > Rubber,Neoprene,3/32 In Thick,12 x 12 In : Grainger Industrial Supply

You guys are too much... Thanks for the help...
 
I bought mine from McMaster-Carr: McMaster-Carr

8985K125 1 Each High-strength Weather-resistant Epdm Rubber, 1/16" Thk, 2"w, 36"l, 80a Durometer, Black

3424A22 1 Each Small-diameter Hole Punch, 9/32" Hole Diameter, Trade Size 11

I see now I went with the EPDM rather than the viton.
 
Thanks AWAP Very intresting...

On the EPDM..intresting.. I read that this what they use standard in the scubapro and other makes.

I know the viton has a higher combustion temp.. but I also hear that it releases pretty nasty gas when it burns.

I paid out the wazoo at a local dive shop to get this regs setup for oxygen service.. when I look at the seat it looks like the same material as stock (EPDM) and not the Brown Vition...

Here are the self ignition temperatures in degrees celcius for the different materials: (Found this on the net.. not sure if it is true)

Will pick up a sheet of the Viton.. do you have anything against the Vition? Or just like the EDPM better? Thanks for the help... I find this all intresting...

Silicone: 218
EPDM: 159
Nitril: 173
Butyl: 208
Viton: 268 - 322
Teflon: 378 - 434
 
Thanks AWAP Very intresting...

On the EPDM..intresting.. I read that this what they use standard in the scubapro and other makes.

I know the viton has a higher combustion temp.. but I also hear that it releases pretty nasty gas when it burns.

I paid out the wazoo at a local dive shop to get this regs setup for oxygen service.. when I look at the seat it looks like the same material as stock (EPDM) and not the Brown Vition...

Here are the self ignition temperatures in degrees celcius for the different materials: (Found this on the net.. not sure if it is true)

Will pick up a sheet of the Viton.. do you have anything against the Vition? Or just like the EDPM better? Thanks for the help... I find this all intresting...

Silicone: 218
EPDM: 159
Nitril: 173
Butyl: 208
Viton: 268 - 322
Teflon: 378 - 434

As I recall, the price of viton was 2 or 3 times higher and I saw absolutely no advantage in viton over the EPDM (both have very similar characteristics in scuba applications). Both should handle recreational nitrox with no problem. Heck, even the neoprene will probably take it just fine. In a 2nd stage, it should never see sufficient concentrations and pressures to be a problem. A 1st stage may be another story.

But I am a cheap bastard. Even at a penny a seat, I flip them once and use both faces. Old habits die hard.

BTW, the color of the material is not a reliable indicator of the composition. While brown is fairly common in viton (o-rings), they can all be easily found in black. And they can be special ordered in just about any color.
 
Thanks for the help AWAP...

You are too funny by flipping the seats..... I am really enjoing cleaning and servicing my own gear. The Mk25 had me a bit scared.. but once I got it apart and understood how the MK25 tool worked w/ the bushings it went like butter..

Thanks for the help,
Rich
 
Guess I am a cheap bastard too awap as I just bought my sheet of rubber, the punch and the nylock nuts through McMaster-Carr. Do you have any more of that type of information that you could post or pm me with? Now, if I can crack the code on specific -oring sizes for all of the major manufacturers I will be ready for business once my compressor and test bench is installed in the garage. Will post pics if anyone is interested.
 
Couv has some annotated schematics of MK5/10 that show the standard o-ring sizes. I'd like to know the standard sizes for the G250 poppet/balance chamber o-rings (probably tiny metric) and the one on the D400 poppet (slightly bigger).

On a slight hijack, I took apart an old D400 poppet today and I'm convinced that making those seats would not be too difficult.
 
I have a list that I started based on a consolidation of different things I found on the net and put them into an excel spreadsheet (attached).
 

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