Shearwater AI transmitter in rec sidemount

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I totally understand redundant gas. I like to have it too, but two gauges? I mean, if my gauge fails I go up. Simple as that.
 
AJ:
Two questions:
1. Why a button gauge backup?
2 Can you read a button gauge underwater and is it accurate enough?

I'am serious about these questions. In my opinion a gauge backup in this case is not necessary for sm rec diving. You will always have plenty of gas when your trasnmitters might fail.

I don't have it for use underwater. I have it so that I can put my reg set on a cylinder and easily see (reasonably close) how much gas it has in it without having to get my computer out - essentially "is this full or pretty darn close?'. It also serves as a sanity check when I assemble everything before a dive, that I can compare against what my AI computer is showing.
 
I don't have it for use underwater. I have it so that I can put my reg set on a cylinder and easily see.

I'm exactly the same. All my reg sets have SPG's as well as AI

SPG, for setting the tanks up and checking rough pressure, also because of force of habit (muscle memory) I always watch the SPG for the pre-dive reg breath (rather than the computer) Just the way I've always done it

AI for underwater, however I do look at the tank SPG on deco or stages, before I put the reg in and switch gasses on the computer.

In my personal experience if a hose of O ring is going to pop it will do so when you apply pressure, so I don't get excited by the term additional failure points. It's an over used phrase IMO :)
 
I've never seen a SPG or transmitter o-ring fail underwater, I've seen plenty bubbling from the get-go but that's because they were loose before the dive but unnoticed.
 
Thank you all for your input (still missing comments why I should NOT do it ;-)).

Anyway - transmitter and button SPG are purchased / mounted to my 1st stage already. Will report after next week's LOB ;-)

Thank you all again for the input :)
 
Sooo......as I have been firmly against AI for a very long time.....you've got me rethinking its absolute exclusion from diving. Now that a very reliable computer has made it an option and you've got a well thought out placement...yes, this is the closest I've come to saying yes, maybe, possibly, ok. I like the addition of the button gauges but hope that in future the users become more aware of their consumption and this would be necessary. Certainly seeing any catastrophic gas failure in SM is readily apparent. Anyone one wanna trade a perdix AI for a non-AI?
 
Hi,
I am getting a Shearwater Perdix AI and would appriciate a few thoughts.

I got one too, dove it in early April at Subic in various depths.

Current setup:
- 6" rubber with SPG pointing down

I used 9" miflex hoses, I found the 6" too short to get the transmitter out of the way, but the 9" is just right to slip under the top band.

Planned setup:
- 6" rubber with AI transmitter, hold against tank with a bungee (reducing entanglement risk and risk of boatsman holdinh my tank by the transmitter)
- Button SPG on the upper HP port as backup (no entanglement risk at all)

Note that Shearwater is clear that the AI should NOT be used without button SPGs still installed. Anyone who wants to rely on the transmitters only either for REC or TEC related diving (wrecks) should read my note below.

Further I understand that the Perdix AI with serial number registered transmitters are very reliable and do not have the false reading issues like Suunto D6i had.

I can't speak for the Suunto transmitters, but I can tell you that I did have some problems with the Shearwater transmitters that should be noted. After I returned from my trip I called Shearwater and we went over the problems.

I made five dives before I had problems, but during the sixth dive one transmitter suddenly went NO COMMS, and when I tried to reposition my computer or rotate the tank to see if something was blocking the transmitter signal.

1) I found that over tightening the transmitter to the HP hose cause the transmitter to not transmit accurately. I removed the transmitter, and then hand tightened onto the HP hose instead of a quick 'torque' with the wrench.

2) Shearwater says that the above shouldn't be a problem, but more important is that Shearwaters transmitters use the 'interval' and can actually have a signal conflict when two are used at the same time. According to Shearwater, the way to clear the conflict underwater is basically to do a valve drill with at the affected transmitter(s), you shut down the valve and leave it off for 2 minutes, then turn it back on and see what happens when the signal starts sending again.

3) According to Shearwater, the gray version of the transmitters all use the same interval, the green Oceanic transmitters use a separate interval so you could use one of each to ensure no conflicts.

Just some thoughts.

I loved my AI when it was working, I wasn't happy with the NO COMMS issue.
 
2) Shearwater says that the above shouldn't be a problem, but more important is that Shearwaters transmitters use the 'interval' and can actually have a signal conflict when two are used at the same time. According to Shearwater, the way to clear the conflict underwater is basically to do a valve drill with at the affected transmitter(s), you shut down the valve and leave it off for 2 minutes, then turn it back on and see what happens when the signal starts sending again.

Presumably, this is to get the transmitter to turn off. It will stay on as long as it has high pressure coming in. I guess it automatically turns off somewhere less than 2 minutes after it loses pressure. When you turn the gas back on, the transmitter turns back on and, hopefully, the interval starts at not exactly the same time as the interval from the other transmitter.

Did they tell you what the interval is for the grey transmitters?

All in all, seems like a good reason to turn on both tanks before splashing and verify comms from both at the same time. Do the shut down and reset on one then, before you splash, if they are talking over each other.
 
Presumably, this is to get the transmitter to turn off. It will stay on as long as it has high pressure coming in. I guess it automatically turns off somewhere less than 2 minutes after it loses pressure. When you turn the gas back on, the transmitter turns back on and, hopefully, the interval starts at not exactly the same time as the interval from the other transmitter.

Also, one thing I did find testing the 'shutoff' function. Don't forget to purge the reg. Otherwise the pressure will keep the transmitter on.

Did they tell you what the interval is for the grey transmitters?

Here's what they said:

We currently only sell one transmitter interval, but there are two others available (both still have FCC ID MH8A):
* Green housing - 4.80 seconds
* Grey/'platinum' housing - 5.00 seconds (standard OEM issue for other brands as well)
* Yellow housing - 5.25 seconds
Note the green housing does not necessarily designate 'O2 safe'. All units are capable of being O2 clean, although we don't currently sell them that way either.

Normally, using transmitters with the same interval does not pose a problem. However, we have on occasion seen (and had reports of) signal interference when using two identical transmitters. Turning one transmitter off for 2 minutes will normally resolve the problem, but of course this is not ideal.

Mitch Burton
Shearwater Research

So, you have a couple choices actually.

All in all, seems like a good reason to turn on both tanks before splashing and verify comms from both at the same time. Do the shut down and reset on one then, before you splash, if they are talking over each other.

I always make sure that they are pressurized and I have good comms before I jump. I've jumped with the tanks mounted, and I've jumped after the comm check and mounted boat side.

Good luck.
 
Great info! Thanks for posting that!

Also, one thing I did find testing the 'shutoff' function. Don't forget to purge the reg.

My training for valve shut downs is to always breathe the reg down until it stops, after shutting the valve and before switching to the other reg.

That accomplishes the same thing (I believe) without risking letting water inside the 2nd stage. I know when I breathe mine down, my Perdix will display a critical error that my tank pressure has been lost. It freaked me out the first time I did that, as I didn't notice it right away. I was in the pool and not really paying attention to my computer. Floating around for a few minutes and glance at my Perdix and see this critical error. I thought my Perdix or transmitter had died. The error displays until you clear it, even after you turn the gas back on. The 2nd time I did it and saw that error I realized it was because I had done a valve drill. That's right. I ain't always the sharpest knife in the drawer... :)
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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