DIR- Generic Sidemounting Deco Cylinders when diving backmount

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The main reason why really sidemount is not easy with a backmount twinset is that the harnass around your hips is completely different from a sidemount harnass. My backmount harnass goes way too high to be able to attach any sidemount tank proparly als sidemount, but it is easy to attach them proparly 'dir'.
I can attach them sidemount on my bm ccr as there I made d-rings on the ccr frame. The bungees are not that problem with a normal dir-harnass, but it is really the harnass webbing around the hips. The backplate end with me way above my hips, so getting it over my hips is impossible.

If a bottle is swinging around with a traditional stage rigging, then probably you have the boltsnap at the bottom of the tank too long, and the one near the valve too low. There is no need that a cylinder is swinging around.
Hi all,
When decos are rigged in a DIR way, I also find that they float around a bit and anyway they float enough to get a 90 degree angle when empty. I also think it is far from ideal and the goal of DIR philosophy is perfection.
Why not at least sidemounting them together (cross-fixing) on the left side ? I have no problem sidemounting my decos in a twinset configuration with a simple loop bungee and 1 Xdeep rubber Dring.
 
Hi all,
When decos are rigged in a DIR way, I also find that they float around a bit and anyway they float enough to get a 90 degree angle when empty. I also think it is far from ideal and the goal of DIR philosophy is perfection.
Why not at least sidemounting them together (cross-fixing) on the left side ? I have no problem sidemounting my decos in a twinset configuration with a simple loop bungee and 1 Xdeep rubber Dring.

If they’re at a 90 degree angle something is rigged wrong.
 
Hi all,
When decos are rigged in a DIR way, I also find that they float around a bit and anyway they float enough to get a 90 degree angle when empty. I also think it is far from ideal and the goal of DIR philosophy is perfection.
Why not at least sidemounting them together (cross-fixing) on the left side ? I have no problem sidemounting my decos in a twinset configuration with a simple loop bungee and 1 Xdeep rubber Dring.

The bottom leash is probably too long and your hip d-ring a bit too far back. You can use the SPG to hold the bottom of the tank down as well and the tank will sit pretty much exactly how it does when about 2/3 full.
 
It makes gas switches difficult when carrying a single stage, and impossible when carrying multiple. Gas switches are one of the most dangerous procedures in technical and cave diving, and the procedure needs to be exactly the same every time, no exceptions. You can’t see the MOD or analysis labels when the tank is sidemounted, meaning you can’t do a proper gas switch. Sure you can pull the bungee off and pull the tank in front of you, but that’s fiddly and difficult in more restrictive places, and re-stowing your reg on that sidemounted tank is extremely difficult, again especially in restrictive areas. If you are carrying a second stage, it blocks you from being able to bring the sidemounted tank forward to see the label.

If your stages are rigged and carried properly, they really aren’t that much less streamlined, and it allows us to be consistent with procedures.
I am too lazy to take pictures today, so hopefully I can describe this well.

Here is a trick that I use on my sidemounted bailouts (lean left, rich right approach). Take the underwater pencil and try to mark the tank where you can easily see the label without having to undo the entire setup/bungees. Then put the label there. Also, put one on top of the valve neck. Then, also, flag the hoses with tape/mix marking. Then flag the regs. It take some time and a few inches of tape to label things properly. However, it hepls while switching gases.

If you have a more-or-less permanent buddy, note where you can see their tanks easily and ask them to put labels there in case if you need to use their offboard - valve neck usually works well.
 
I am too lazy to take pictures today, so hopefully I can describe this well.

Here is a trick that I use on my sidemounted bailouts (lean left, rich right approach). Take the underwater pencil and try to mark the tank where you can easily see the label without having to undo the entire setup/bungees. Then put the label there. Also, put one on top of the valve neck. Then, also, flag the hoses with tape/mix marking. Then flag the regs. It take some time and a few inches of tape to label things properly. However, it hepls while switching gases.

If you have a more-or-less permanent buddy, note where you can see their tanks easily and ask them to put labels there in case if you need to use their offboard - valve neck usually works well.

Those are all creative solutions. However, since this is the DIR forum, it’s important to point out that pretty much everything you described directly contradicts DIR methodology and SOPs.
 
Usually, being mindful of placement of top boltsnap not being to far down the bottleneck, and keeping proper length on the lower boltsnap will keep empty bottles in check.
If you still find that it goes "vertical" when empty, it is possible to use front (scooter) d-ring to "shorten in" that bottle back end. (Ie, longer bolt snap, and let the stage "float" to the left side)
Usually I keep one stage with very short stagerigs and the second with slightly longer. This keeps one on top of the other, and will stabilize the two. Third/fourth stage goes on leash and will usually rest on/between legs when scootering. (Who would actually consider swimming with 3+ stages...)
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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