Trip Report Sogod Bay and Panglao first weeks of May 2023

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Luko

Contributor
Messages
2,559
Reaction score
2,357
Location
Paris, France
# of dives
1000 - 2499
First part Sogod Bay.

People ain't kidding when they say it's a long way to Sogod Bay, at least from Europe.
That was first a long but comfortable trip to Singapore on AF, upgraded to Business class, overnight in S'pore hawkers dinner and dim sum breakfast, the SIN-Manila flight with Scoot wasn't scheduled the day after, then overnight in Manila (I still love the Manila Hotel after many stays, upgraded to a suite), Couldn't complain with jetlag then.

Morning after the domestic transfer began : 1hr flight to Tacloban with PR.
Then almost 4 hrs van drive across Leyte to Peter's Dive resort (booked with PDR 5000PHP).

Probably begining of May wasn't the best moment to visit Sogod Bay and Peter's Dive resort- 3 first days were rainy not like you can expect in May in the Visayas. Padre Burgos jetty was closed for diving for a week or two due to a ship loading/unloading cargo, add on top a group of 15 chinese divers for the first days and too few divers on some days to organize other than "local" dives (Could have been worse though... two weeks before a group of 40 european divers had booked the resort). It also seems that PDR doesn't go out for Whale shark trips more than once a week and since the chinese group did it the day I came in, hence I would have to wait for a week more.

I had hired a private guide for all my dives so I could manage to avoid the group, however the first days were quite mundane, I didn't even bother dive the afternoon macro dives after I had the first muck dives. It's only when going to Napantao wall that I was more impressed with what Sogod bay had to propose diving wise.
"Little Lembeh" muck dives in Malitbog were more 'little' than Lembeh-ish in terms of critters : some usual macro life, I thought it was much less than in Dauin for instance, nowhere comparable to the best macro sites in Indonesia.
Coral was heavily touched two years ago by typhoon Odette, the local coral dive sites showed much rubble for the 10 shallower meters, my guide told me that Napantao shallows were severely hit and the coral wiped out. However Napantao in deeper parts was gorgeous, teeming with fish, lush with black coral, probably the one of the best walls in the Philippines (I still put Pescador off Moalboal ahead for the coral color, although I didn't revisit since 2018).














We finally cut short the week stay we had planned and decided to forward our arrival on Panglao, since whaleshark trips were planned only on the last day of our intended stay and I was longing for larger fish schools.

Thanks to PDR who helped us arrange our way to Panglao which was quite longish too : departing at 6:30AM 1,5 hrs drive from PDR to Bato harbor (2500 PHP), almost 3hrs ferry crossing to Ubay-Bohol (9AM 420PHP pp), 3hrs private car drive to Panglao, arrival around 4PM (5000PHP).
 
Second part Panglao

Beggining of May wasn't the best period for Panglao either because of the japanese golden week : apparently the dive operation I was diving with never had experienced so many divers - mostly from Japan obviously- they had to rent another large boat to accomodate all of their guests. Most of the hotels on Alona were full as well, thanks to Korean holidayers and the ongoing "travel revenge" raging all over the world.

Don't expect much privacy on Alona, it was already the case in the pre COVID years, but in the meantime some more hotels rose from the grounds. Some historical dive shops have closed (no more Sea Explorers), others have opened, on my side I selected Philippines Fun Divers whom I already dived with a few years ago, serious german-japanese operation, very accomodating for my photog needs, I was glad to meet the very experienced guide Alvin I used to hire at Sea Explorers.
The positive thing is that there are now more options for restaurants and decent eating a tuktuk ride away (Gerarda has opened a new branch in Danao-Panglao, you won't taste better local dishes than Gerarda), weirdly enough Alona beachfront is not anymore the chaos it used to be at night, probably restaurants have been fined, they're not spreading anywhere on the beach anymore.

The local dive sites were quite worn out and had only little interest (although Alvin was able to show me more Okenia nudibranches than I had ever spotted in my last 5 trips to Alona), Doljo was a ghost dive site and the sardines school was fished out in Napaling.
However Balicasag was better than ever, I had two day trip on Balicasag out of 5 days diving on Alona overall: a few days after full moon I had a dive where it seemed all the fishes were schooling : largest school of jackfish i had seen on Balicasag, barracudas, mackerels, bannerfish, snappers, fusiiliers, etc... every fish had decided to congregate in large amounts.

A special mention to a small party of HongKong divers whose "leader" looking very proud of himself wearing a "save the oceans" kind of Tshirt had brought his UWscooter.
With my private guide we had decided to go first and hunting for the elusive jackfish school the opposite way the group was going, against the current. The scooterized ecowarrior managed to follow our path right when we came closer to the school, as soon as he saw the fish he sped up and went full throttle with his scooter right inside the agregation which of course scared all the fish I was already thinking about the words I will select to express straightforwardly my feelings to this pompeous a***hole, when my guide handsigned me to wait for 5 minutes. Finally after a while the jackfish school merged with some other schools in order to get us the largest jackfish schoal I had seen on Balicasag.... and the motorized a$$hole was gone ...

I missed two whalesharks : first in Balicasag because we stayed for too long at the same place with the jackfish school, second one in Alona, we were only two divers on the boat with two guides, while i was my head down on nudibranches, the other diver and his guide were more interested looking into the blue further away. What would have I shot with a 100mm macro lens anyway?

Jackfish school on Balicasag :


Jackfish school like a diver on scooter would never see :




Cudas school in Balicasag :




Smaller jackfish school :


Divers with no scooters are OK , they don't scare the fish:


Mackerels mouth wide open feeding


Balicasag reefs :


Okenia Nakamotoensis in Alona :



Conclusion

My personal opinions about the dive conditions and the destinations :

Sogod Bay is quite tedious to get to (Flying to Tacloban might be the best/most comfortable option), I found the diving quite inconsistent from very good on Napantao to mundane on other sites. You're not even guaranteed to be quiet on your boat, as the few resorts seem to focus on dive groups, and when there is none you might not be able to dive the best sites. Would I go back? For the dive quality I don't think so, there are better dive options an dhonestly I don't understand the hype with Sogod Bay, of course the diving nor the stay are expensive but life is too short, I'd rather pay more, get better diving and more landside accom options.

Balicasag is still great. Never seen so many fish this time and that was my 6th time, forget Alona local dives tho. Woudl I go back for the 7th time? yes absolutely for 4-5 days mostly diving Balicasag combined with a macro destination elsewhere because I can't see in the Phils where you can dive from a resort and find those jackfish or 'cudas schools. Not Apo island, where the jackfish are much harder to find most of the time iin reaping current, Overall I take Balicasag as a better blue water/reef destination than Apo.

Avoid Golden Week period in the Phils and refuse to dive on a boat where someone carries a scooter.
 
I never made any conclusion after one short trip.
Money can never ever guarantee anything especially when it comes to scuba diving. Any experienced diver understand the meaning of SEASONAL. Do your homework first before planning a trip.
Three of us went to Lembeh for the first and last time because we all hate it. Bunakan is much preferred.
The Little Lembeh is better because it is NOT black sandy bottom.
We all have our own preferences and I never ever compared apple and orange.
Took me few years to fully understand the meaning of "non adventurous middle class"! Classic. They are the most boring peoples that I had ever met.
Game for a laugh? Not a chance.
 
Oh that was such poor form of PDR to not arrange an extra whaleshark trip for you or to get you onto another shop‘s trip. It’s interesting that you enjoyed Panglao so much, as many do.

Thanks for the great trip report and for sharing those awesome photos.
 
1. May is usually a bit late for the whaleshark. If I want to see the largest fish in the world I would had gone earlier to increase the chances.
2. Need to employ several spotter bankas to locate the gentle giant, cannot do it with one boat. Supply and demand.

It is all too easy to blame the other side. LOL.
 
I still think that, from the information we have, more effort should have been made. The flight from Europe is so long and now so expensive, that they could have done more, to come to an agreement, or to put Luko on another shops trip.
 
Oh that was such poor form of PDR to not arrange an extra whaleshark trip for you or to get you onto another shop‘s trip.
This is something I don't understand either : whale sharks were spotted in Sogod Bay on the day I arrived, proof that was still season, the guide confirmed me it was not uncommon at all to see them until mid may, that's what they noticed in the past years. (Anyway I'd rather see WS OFF season than miss them ON season : season is when they're there).
After the chinese group left, 4 divers came in, a solo spanish traveler I discussed with was keen to get on a WS daytrip, I suppose the two or three other (Central europeans?) would have jumped on the boat too.
I asked PDR but no they only planned the trip later on, end of the week... Hence the spanish guy left after one day, quite disappointed with the diving organization too.

PDR was very arranging for everything like accomodation and transfers, thanks to Shelani, but it seemed there was a kind of mystery about the decisions on the dive side and which sites were planned. The organization looked very hierarchical : the dive manager "revealed" each night before what would be the dive sites we'd go without any flexibility nor any discussion, it was like waiting for the oracle. On my dive guide's recommandation, I had to insist and ask a few times to know when we would go to Napantao.

A very different experience than what I usually get and expect from other dive centers in the Phils.

It’s interesting that you enjoyed Panglao so much, as many do.
Well it's the diving in Balicasag which is the most interesting. Of course Alona is nowhere looking like it used to be in 2001 the first time I visited although weirdly enough the diving in Balicasag is still on the same level. There are only few places where you still can have loads of fish like these.
 
This was not typical of our experience at PDR when were there for two weeks in February, or on prior visits. I know experiences can vary widely, and maybe it was a bad week for the staff on hand...but I have to say I'm surprised to read some of these comments.

The resort itself was busy (sold out most nights) when we were there, but Dino (the dive operation manager) was very flexible about juggling interests of the diverse small groups of friends looking for recreational dives, and those of more specialized interests, such as photography. The dives for the next day were always announced late PM with input from guests when possible, or so it seemed to us. If we were interested in hitting Napantao again, we would mention it to him and/or our dive guides. It would then appear on the schedule within a day or two. Same with Limasawa or other requests. Night dives were more of a "who wants to go tonight?" thing, or spontaneous, and by land vehicle.

Whale shark trips are a bit more complicated for the resort, I think. They had a minimum number of snorkelers required (10?), and PDR and the other resorts in Sogod have to reserve a three-hour slot with the village association that provides the bangka spotters, and (sometimes) puts a biologist on board. Resorts schedule a minimum number of days ahead, but not sure how many. We did this trip three times while we there, and skipped one day they were going...so, they went roughly twice in a week. Before we even got to PDR this time, Shelani contacted us and asked if we thought we might want to do the whale sharks, and if so, how many times for scheduling purposes. I don't think they would do it for four or six snorkelers, but would be very surprised if they would not offer to put a person on another resort's trip if possible.

Anyway, we liked the diving both before Odette and after, but certainly there were impacts. We really liked the resort staff, dive staff, and facilities.

Sorry Luko had a bad experience, and thanks to him for posting the trip report. I am guilty of owing several trip reports to this forum. :rolleyes:
 
The resort itself was busy (sold out most nights) when we were there, but Dino (the dive operation manager) was very flexible about juggling interests of the diverse small groups of friends looking for recreational dives, and those of more specialized interests, such as photography. The dives for the next day were always announced late PM with input from guests when possible, or so it seemed to us. If we were interested in hitting Napantao again, we would mention it to him and/or our dive guides.
I hardly saw Dino, he was off and home by 5 PM and when I asked my guide (Titing) about the dive sites or trips I wanted to dive, the answer was "Ask Dino". I tried to talk to him, my last resort was asking Shelani whose answers were "Dino's not there but he said..."
I couldn't have like an idea of dive propositions or a schedule before the end of the day.
I had to insist for Napantao because I was worried after the guide told me there were probably not enough divers to even go to Napantao.

Apart from that they were helpful for land transfers... but for the diving organization I found it was a bit on the minimal side. Nothing like I was used to elsewhere in the Phils. (As for example, Philippines Fun Divers in Panglao planned everything I wanted even on short notice, they even sailed a boat to Balicasag on my request when we were only 3 divers and managed to get additional divers onboard from other dive centres)
 
I am guilty of owing several trip reports to this forum. :rolleyes:
Time is on your side.
I can still remember the place on my first visit in 2004. Supercat to Hilongos, Peter met me at the terminal and drove to the resort via the mountain road.
The resort has developed beyond my wildest dreams.
Next year is my plan for a well overdue revisit.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom