sp-350

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So I took my camera to the lake today, decided to shoot video for only the 3rd time, was going to shoot my favorite local site (they are closing it Monday to build a marina right on top of it :(), but it was blown out so we went to another spot. I'm really happy with the color and clairty. Think I'm finally getting the hang of this camera. I've found that 320x240 30fps, 200ISO, Manual white balance, fulltime AF Off, works best with the video YMMV.

Okay so the vidz a little boring and YouTube compresses it a lot, but here ya go...


-Garrett
 
Since I have bought the Moby CRV3 rechargables I have not had any issues with the camara shutting off during a dive. I don't shoot in RAW, so I don't know how long the batteries would last in that mode, I shoot in SHQ. Last week I did 2 dives with a combined bottom time of almost 2 hours, I took at least 100 pictures between those two dives and my battery low indicator never came on.

Just a note about using the AA batteries, if you ever have to use them, I have noticed that after the camara shuts down, if you give it a few minutes you can usually power the camara back up and take a shot or two before it dies again. You can repeat this about 5 times before it just won't turn back on.

Tomorrow we are going to make a dive on an old F4 jet to 45 meters, (about 145ft) the PT-030 housing is rated for 130ft (I believe) Would anyone else chance taking it down another 15ft? That's only about 12% deeper. I have asked a few people about that, and they seem to think it is OK. (But non of them own a underwater camera.)

Shark Bite- I didn't know you could change the video settings, I will give that try tommorow as well. I plan on using everthing auto but just changing to 320x240 I have a 1Gig card, so I noticed how much more time you can get on it with the different settings. I went from 9 minutes, to 25 minutes. How much quality are you giving up, do you think it is worth it?
 
JDog:
Shark Bite- I didn't know you could change the video settings, I will give that try tommorow as well. I plan on using everthing auto but just changing to 320x240 I have a 1Gig card, so I noticed how much more time you can get on it with the different settings. I went from 9 minutes, to 25 minutes. How much quality are you giving up, do you think it is worth it?
Your not giving up any quality at 30fps, just resolution, and obviously your not restricted to 20(?) second clips. I think at the 320x240 resolution it's only good for viewing on your computer and sharing on YT, GV, OP, etc. Burning on a DVD I don't think would look so good, although I've never tried, I have some blank DVDs around here I'll give it a go.

The quality of the video before YouTube's compression got ahold of it, is super.

-Garrett
 
Follow up-- SP-350 info: In 79degree water, the PT-30 housing still functioned at 140 feet. I didn't have any problems.
 
My camara doesn't have the same "pinkish" color I was going to link a short video clip to show the difference but my connection speed is too slow. I don't use a filter.
 
Tollie:
Hey SB,

I have a 350 and have never shoot vid with the camera... a quick question. It seems as if there is a redish cast to the footage... how come? Are you using a filter?
If your talking about the beginning of the vid, I was messing around. That being said occassionally you'll get a little reddish tint due to the WB from changes in depth, shooting up towards the light or going in and out of the shadows, unless you continually reset the WB (which I don't). I don't use a filter either.

I find it difficult to hit the OK (center button) with one-hand (holding a slate or wetnotes with the other) to set the WB, so I don't do it as frequently as I probably should. I've taken short clips in SoCal of morays and such and not had a problem with it, it's just with longer clips w/ big depth and light changes, etc as I said.

I shot another short clip yesterday and it illustrates my point, in the opening water scene the WB is still set from my previous dive. As you can see it kindof red as I drop over the wall @ 15-20', in the next scene I'm at about 45' at a cavern (for lack of a better term) opening and the red is gone.




-Garrett
 
liberato:
...In any case, with the Ikelite interface, it does indeed actually work correctly when I chose external only and then turn off the flash. So, I either have a defective one or it is just a fluke in the Ikelite design...
Just a followup for historical purposes on my weird SP-350 flash behavior (internal flash firing when external strobe was connected). It turns out the root of the problem was a faulty diode in the Ikelite TTL interface. Bob at Ikelite sniffed it out quickly. All is well.
 
liberato:
Just a followup for historical purposes on my weird SP-350 flash behavior (internal flash firing when external strobe was connected). It turns out the root of the problem was a faulty diode in the Ikelite TTL interface. Bob at Ikelite sniffed it out quickly. All is well.

Did you have to send to send your housing back to Ikelite? Have you received it back and proven that the internal flash no longer fires with the external strobe attached (without manually shutting off the internal flash)? I'm having the same issue and found that it also occurs with my SP-350 connected to my wife's Ike C-7070 housing circuitry. My wife's C-7070 only fires the external strobe when it's attached without having to manually cancel the internal flash. I've also found that the TTL circuitry in my IKE housing isn't working properly.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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