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Ss. Tank bands and ss. Backplate

Discussion in 'Making your own Gear' started by Seraphimx, May 7, 2011.

  1. Seraphimx

    Seraphimx Contributor

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Montreal, Canada
    538
    30
    The half round should be made out of tubing since it would purge of water easier.

    It's finally not that cheap.

    Material + Laser + Bending = 55$ for SS.316 45$ for SS.304 55$ for Aluminium (He can surely lower his price if I make more quantity)
    You have to add 2hours @ 20$ for buffing sharp slots and polishing.

    90$ a plate

    (I never understood how aluminium backplates can be cheaper than SS since Aluminium is expensive)
    Maybe because I can only get T5 or T6 grade for structural and architectural works and that is too strong and overrated for BP/W?


    Furthermore, the H-Plate's design bends are too near each others. They can't do it because they don't have the equipment for it.
    Their bending bench is not strong enough to make those, so I'll have to go ask the shop that specializes in bending (he doesn't like me much).

    I should receive the normal plate sample (not free though) in a week (with how much late time?).
     
  2. mike1010

    mike1010 Dive Shop

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Sunnyvale California
    92
    6
    sounds interesting. i'd like to see pictures when you slot the holes would you be able to make the slots further apart to try out the cinch setup? also is it possible to use 316 stainless or is that too expensive or difficult to work with?
    edit
    read your post better, seems like using 304 woulden't be worth it for 10$ difference.
     
  3. Seraphimx

    Seraphimx Contributor

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Montreal, Canada
    538
    30
    I work in steel construction and marine grade 316L (don't forget the L) is used in case a ladder is 100% of the time immersed in water (any type of water).
    Or we also use aluminium in such cases too.

    If you think about it.

    A grade 316L in water 24/7 won't rust.
    You make 4x 30min dive per days (someone really fanatic) you are basically 8% of the time in water.
    If you only dive on the weekeds, you are 1.2% of the time in water.
    Is it worth it?

    I'll receive the plate unbent and already with the holes cut (it's laser cut). But the slots & holes will be have really sharp edges that will need to be buffed/grinded.

    316L Grade stainless IMHO is a waste of $.
    If you are a dive professional and make 4 dives per day, maybe.
    If you are only diving on weekends, useless.

    316L is more expensive than 316.
    316 is more expensive than 304.

    I'd do the plate in the cheapest material at the moment and once I get the design 100% sure I'll do it in 316.

    The plate with the cinch I'll have to redraw a sketch and add the spacing for the tubing. I'll resend it to cutting but I'll ask it to be in standard steel and we'll go from there.
     
  4. mike1010

    mike1010 Dive Shop

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Sunnyvale California
    92
    6
    Sounds good I only know about steel form the little online research I've done. the only design thing i think is really important is that the tubing be solid. with the weight of the tank or 2 tanks on that area i think solid would work better. I've got some 5/8" round bar coming in the mail now I'm going to try on my Oms plate, to see if the idea is worth using if it works it can be put on the plate I'd like to buy from you. I can see if the spacing of 5/8 is adequate as well.
     
  5. Seraphimx

    Seraphimx Contributor

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Montreal, Canada
    538
    30
    I understand what you mean but a round surface is always stronger, furthermore the tubing is so small that it would need A LOT of force to damage it. I mean you would literally need to take a sledgehammer and hit on it to bend the half circle. The smaller the diameter of the tubing the stronger it'll be.

    1) It's easier to cut a half tube than a half solid.
    2) I'm thinking of water infiltration. If you weld the solid bar you need to make sure you have sealed welds.
    3) Time, seal welds takes time and you have to be sure it's done correctly, if it's not done correctly infiltration will start rusting that area.

    [​IMG]

    That's why I'm saying a hollow tubing would work better, you finish using the BP, you rinse it with fresh water and you're done.

    Also if you weld, it seems (as per an engineer's opinion) that we would be better off using 304L (didnt know it existed) or 316L. He says the heat of the welding on the welded area degraded the SS and it can rust easier on the welds. While with "L" grade, the Welds reform the protection and stay as before.

    Does anyone have an halcyon cinch system that can be used to measure the height of the round part and so on.

    1 week to go
     
  6. mike1010

    mike1010 Dive Shop

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Sunnyvale California
    92
    6
    I can look at my buddy's setup and take some measurements if that would help. but if you can find the gap distances on a halcyon plat that should also give you an idea of how far the slots need to be.
     
  7. mike1010

    mike1010 Dive Shop

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Sunnyvale California
    92
    6
    Update
    So i received the round bar and am testing it out.
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2011
  8. Seraphimx

    Seraphimx Contributor

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Montreal, Canada
    538
    30
    Just received an halcyon plate, I'll check it out but i received a SMALL PLATE:confused: DAMMIT!
     
  9. mike1010

    mike1010 Dive Shop

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Sunnyvale California
    92
    6
    did not know they came in sizes...
     
  10. Seraphimx

    Seraphimx Contributor

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Montreal, Canada
    538
    30
    Yes, there's normal or small for a small people. Well I'm not so tall (5ft-6in) so I don't know if it'll be a problem or not.
    Still haven't checked for the spacing, totally forgot about it.
    I'll need a reminder:dork2:

    Backplates & Harnesses by Dive Rite - Dive Gear Express
    Many short waisted divers, particularly petite women, find typical backplates do not fit them very well. The DR Short Backplate is solves this problem because it is exactly 2-inches shorter than a standard backplate at 13.5-inches high and 10.5-inches wide (weight 1.5 lbs, 0.68 kg). The shorter backplate won't dig into the lumbar area of the back and sits right where the shorter diver needs it - just below the waist. Featuring natural color hardcoat anodized finish on 5052 aluminum, all edges are smooth and rounded to eliminate sharp edges and prevent abrasion to harness webbing. Available in aluminum only, this strong low weight backplate also makes a great Travel Plate. (quote from divegearexpress.com)
     

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