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Ss. Tank bands and ss. Backplate

Discussion in 'Making your own Gear' started by Seraphimx, May 7, 2011.

  1. Seraphimx

    Seraphimx Contributor

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Montreal, Canada
    538
    30
    The Two slots are at 15-16mm from each other. Look like 5/8" to me. Still haven't got the plate. Damn it's long
     
  2. Seraphimx

    Seraphimx Contributor

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Montreal, Canada
    538
    30
    [​IMG]

    Here we are, I'll try to get it Bent soon. REAL SOON!:D
     
  3. Seraphimx

    Seraphimx Contributor

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Montreal, Canada
    538
    30
    Didn't update since, but if you look at the above picture you can easily see something's wrong

    The deployed drawing of the H plate isn't deployed, it's bent, therefore the bends at 10mm that were impossible become possible once you DEPLOY the damn drawing.

    I've sent another to the laser/bending, should arrive monday, I'll post pictures.


    BTW for the cinch system I now understand about the round bar, I'll just weld one in place afterwards and send pictures of the result. This is a lengthy process.
     
  4. Akimbo

    Akimbo Just a diver Staff Member ScubaBoard Supporter

    10,927
    9,357
    I wanted the shoulder straps/belly-band to slide easier through my Freedom Plate and built this as an experiment (see photo). It worked so well I made one for the other side and called it good. Basically I hacksawed a slit on a piece of 2" long piece of ½" schedule 40 PVC pipe. I pried the slit open enough to slip a stainless D-ring in. I glued the slit shut after finding it worked, after the photo was taken.

    It turned out totally Goldie Locks — the webbing slides through every well, but not too easily. As it turns out, the D-rings are useful as well.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Seraphimx

    Seraphimx Contributor

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Montreal, Canada
    538
    30
    That is cool, would the diameter influence how easy it is to slide it?

    I think, larger than the two slits would make it harder, while smaller dia. then the distance between the two slits will make it easier. Is that so?

    I have a dumb question: I have weight pockets on the webbing, this won't work no? When you pull the pockets will be in the way, no? How does halcyon solve the problem?
    They put the pocket on the second webbing made for the canister?

    The D-Ring in the tubing looks like a good idea, but I don't think (correct me if I'm wrong) on the H-Plate or STD backplate.
    The bend in the freedom plate makes the D-Ring accessible. While in a standard setup it would be sandwiched between the wing and plate. no?
     
  6. Akimbo

    Akimbo Just a diver Staff Member ScubaBoard Supporter

    10,927
    9,357
    I may not fully understand the questions but will give it a try.

    Maybe. The lower slots on the Freedom Plate are not parallel and the narrowest solid metal between the slots is about 0.42". The best way is to try it and see if it works. You could use electrical wire instead of a D-ring for the dry experiment. Also try different diameter pipe if you think it fits.

    There is only one vertical slit/saw kerf on each piece the PVC pipe. There is enough flex in the pipe that you can pry it apart with a screw driver to get a D-ring slipped in. I dripped PVC cement in the kerf after slipping the D-ring in and clamped for 10 minutes or so.

    Some pockets will slide on the webbing, but you need a stop so the pocket opposite the buckle won’t just slide off. That may limit the webbing’s travel/slip range.

    I think you have to see what kind of space you have behind the plate on your rig to see if D-rings would have any utility beyond preventing the PVC rollers from just falling out. My first experiment used ¼" double-braid line to hold the roller but it got pulled into the slot and jammed. I had D-rings handy so that was my next experiment. Rectangular rings made from 1/8" stainless wire would probably work just as well if you couldn’t use the D-rings due to space or access. Hope that helps.
     
  7. Seraphimx

    Seraphimx Contributor

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Montreal, Canada
    538
    30
    I've received the HPlate. Some parts are bent (Why did I make such a long slot?), well we learn in the process.

    I'll be "shaving" the holes to remove sharp corners.

    Afterwards, I'll need to check the slotted holes in the bend, since they are too "closed" at the inside part of the bend.

    I'll also have to test the compatibility with the halcyon MCpack

    and Test dive it in a big pool:D

    The smaller holes are there to install a custom "cinch" system.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. hitchy

    hitchy Instructor, Scuba

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: New Zealand
    9
    0
    i know this is alittle old now, but i was wondering how everyone got on??

    im looking at making a backplate and was going to base it on the H backplate but seeing this and the adjustments made by seraphimx and the ideas for a 'cinch' system i was wondering how far everyone got.


    seraphimx did you get a 'cinch' system on to your finished plate???
    would it be possible for you to give me the measurements for your plate design, so i can compare it to the orignal to see how you have changed it.

    cheers
    hitchy
     
  9. Seraphimx

    Seraphimx Contributor

    # of Dives: 50 - 99
    Location: Montreal, Canada
    538
    30
    I havent change the dimensions its just that the original plans are not a deployed sheet metal plan.
    Meaning the width is the actual folded width and not the total unfolded width (which is bigger).
    And since the Cinch is totally useless for me I havent look for it much. Just weld a piece of tubing or rod between the two slots for the straps and itll work.

    Beware making the BP can cost more (will surely) than just buying it.

    I finally made a steel (like a rough draft version) of the back plate. Dimension wise its good but I need to correct some small things.

    1) Bent slots for the Straps get deformed easily under a DIE bender.
    2) Bolt slot was too long and deformed easily at the bending.
    3) Find a better way to bend the plates.

    If you want my CAD drawings I can send it to you just PM me.

    Thanks
     
  10. edthesped

    edthesped Registered

    23
    2
    Ok, I've been kicking this around for a while. I started working something up and got too busy and ended up purchasing a plate. see the following links...

    http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/attachments/do-yourself-diy/107071d1320100740-diy-backplate-bp2.pdf
    .

    http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/do-yourself-diy/400907-diy-backplate.html

    I had planned on going with a waterjet cut plate and was going to put it in a tumbler to smooth the edges. 304L would have been my material of choice as we often have 10 ga. drops in the scrap pile that no one would mind me taking. After looking at the Halcyon I think I would dump the "H" plate design and go with something more traditional and fabricate a separate STA. Reading about a home made cinch has piqued my interest again, (I wish I had access to a Halcyon cinch to back out how it works). Why not take Akimbo's idea in another direction and get a 1/4" dia round bar and weld a D ring to it? Maybe even cut the D ring so it can be welded at either end of the round bar? Or am I missing something?

    edit: seraphamix I see you have the two small holes between the lower strap slots wouldn't it be possible to tack a couple of bolts to a piece of rd bar and stick fasten it that way? It would be a down and dirty way to test out a cinch system.
     

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