Surefire flashlights in a dive light?

[rollerboi]

Has anyone tried or considered using a Surefire-brand flashlight for a dive light conversion? I've got a fairly small one (E2E Hard-Anodized or Satin Grey Flashlight from SureFire) but it has an output of 60 lumens, which is much brighter than a mag-lite of the same size, with a better spot of illumination.

I'm considering making a dive light for a project and learning as I go, but I don't want to use the Surefire if it's not going to be sufficient or reliable enough for diving. And I don't want to mess that baby up, it's an expensive light.

 

[Wyofirediver]

I've been thinking about the same idea. However, I'm going to try one of the lights sold by Cabelas. Ive had a couple of them, and they are identical to my surefires with the exception that the switch is only constant on or conastant off. They also tend to cost alot less, bought a 240 lumen for less than half the cost of a 6P.

 

[HenrikBP]

Please keep us posted on your experiment. I would think waterproofing as well as glass strength would be the main challenges. I'd be interested to see how you make out.

Henrik

 

[Adgie]

I ran some tests on a similar brand and the failure point was the rubberized on/off switch on the end cap. It was not waterproof at any reasonable depth. I considered replacing the end cap with a single piece end cap and using a twist on/off mechanism instead of the push button.

-A

 

[BikerManiac]

You can read more about my a trials with a similar light here

Torches with a CREE Emitter? - ScubaToys Diving Forum

I sealed and brought a SAIK light underwater. It held up to the 10th dive and water flooded through the front lens.

DealExtreme: $14.55 SAIK RC-A3 Cree AA Flashlight (Gray)

By the way you can seal the clicky switch in the back. The most likely point of failure is the front lens that attaches to the body.

 

[HenrikBP]

How about working in the opposite direction; installing a newer, high output LED in an existing dive light. CandlePowerForums have lots of threads about modifying existing lights in that way. I wonder if it'd be possible to put a Cree or Seoul in a UK Q40 eLED or UK SL4 LED.

edit: just looked at the Scubatoys thread - an inspiring read. Thanks.

Henrik

 

[Kingmob3]

Might it be easer to build a new casing around the existing light? That way you have a bunch of options in terms of how to do the switch, but could (in theory) take it appart and use the flashlight on land?
Allen

 

[scuba_moron]

I had various Surefire lights and none are water proof. Most will leak from the mometary tail cap pressure switch if take it deep enough.

Surefire had a standard 6 series (2 cell) that was certified as water proof, but not sure at what depth. You will have to call and ask as it is not an off the self product.

 

[JonasLondon]

Hi all, forget about modding a Surefire. Just buy a dive torch. Yes, I fell for the Surefire marketing too, and assumed (the error is right there, I know!) that a manufacturer claiming to build the baddest, meanest, military-special-forces-what-not flashlights would not build stuff that literally disintegrates at 10 Meter's depth...

Fact: I took a G2 ----- edit: G2Z CombatLight - Flashlight as a small and handy torch attached to my BCD diving in the UK offshore waters, made a dive to no more than 12 Meters (around 35 feet), and the water leaking through either the front glas or the tail cap caused the Lithium batteries to go with a BANG - blew the tailcap straight off, leaving my D-Ring with a poxy oxidation effect looking rubbish.

Thanks, but no thanks. I unfortunately bought four lights during a close-out. I am keeping a L4 for "normal" city & hiking and stuff (it is bright for that size, no doubt), but Surefire torches can not even be used for some little snorkeling in my opinion. Dive Lights are plenty, check out a TillyTec W30 for example - now that's a handy little light!

Jonas

 

[letterboy]

Pictures? Did it explode at depth or on the surface?