Taking pictures and videos with Canon S100
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RESCUEDIVER
Contributor
Do you have a ttl capable strobe. By deafualt, most, if not all, Canon cameras (the s100 included) do not support ttl in manual mode
You can get around this by using CHDK, using manual mode and the ttl on/off script (this allows ttl control in manual) or by setting to Tv (which does use ttl) and forcing the aperature to what ever setting you want in the CHDK settings and adjusting the shutter to your desired setting normally (usually 125 underwater)...kind of a back door manual
I've had some good luck using both .jpg and canon raw (cr2). Where post processing has been minimal with PhotoShop, the .jpg has been fine. For more extensive processing, I adjust the raw file..CHD also lets you adjust the raw to a dng file if you want
The stock underwater white balance has worked well for this with pictures and reasonably OK for video
I have, on the other hand, hand terrible battery life...probably because I have the lcd on for an excessive time to keep camera "hot" for unexpected shots, tend to shoot a lot of pictures with ttl flash and sometimes take 3-4 shots of each scene as they do change (about 40 shots per dive)
I get about a dive and half with the stock battery, so I've taken to changing batteries after each dive...no problems as the Fix S100 housing is pretty easy to deal with
You can get around this by using CHDK, using manual mode and the ttl on/off script (this allows ttl control in manual) or by setting to Tv (which does use ttl) and forcing the aperature to what ever setting you want in the CHDK settings and adjusting the shutter to your desired setting normally (usually 125 underwater)...kind of a back door manual
I've had some good luck using both .jpg and canon raw (cr2). Where post processing has been minimal with PhotoShop, the .jpg has been fine. For more extensive processing, I adjust the raw file..CHD also lets you adjust the raw to a dng file if you want
The stock underwater white balance has worked well for this with pictures and reasonably OK for video
I have, on the other hand, hand terrible battery life...probably because I have the lcd on for an excessive time to keep camera "hot" for unexpected shots, tend to shoot a lot of pictures with ttl flash and sometimes take 3-4 shots of each scene as they do change (about 40 shots per dive)
I get about a dive and half with the stock battery, so I've taken to changing batteries after each dive...no problems as the Fix S100 housing is pretty easy to deal with
I dont have an external strobe. I was referring to the flash that comes with the camera.
---------- Post added February 22nd, 2013 at 10:44 PM ----------
---------- Post added February 22nd, 2013 at 11:02 PM ----------
Thanks! What should I pay attention to adjust when shooting raw files? ISO?
---------- Post added February 22nd, 2013 at 10:44 PM ----------
For RAW pictures, What do you have ISO set to? (Is Auto ok?). Do you also set (internal) flash to off? Do you use external flash?
---------- Post added February 22nd, 2013 at 11:02 PM ----------
Thanks! What should I pay attention to adjust when shooting raw files? ISO?
racerfern
Registered
I have a two Sea and Sea strobes, a 110 and a YS90 auto. I got CHDK to work on the camera but I'm easily confused with all the settings. I'm also confused about once I figure out how to use TTL in manual OR trying Tv as you suggested how I save those settings in CHDK. It seems like an awful lot of work fumbling through all the settings every time the camera is turned on. At least that's how I see it. Can you point me to a CHDK discussion that might help me or obviously do you you have any pointers? It's also confusing that somewhere it says "lock" the card. Then how are you supposed to take pictures???
I did upgrade the Canon to 1.02 yesterday so I may have to wait for a new CHDK. But in the meantime it would be great to "learn" things a bit better.
RESCUEDIVER
Contributor
I've been monitoring the CHDK site...doesn't seem to be any rumblings about someone working on 1.02...when "B" units were released, someone had developed that version quickly....I am waiting...
To access your setting quickly, set up a user menu...the directions are in the CHDK user manual found on the wiki site...rather easy after you play with it a bit..toggles with ALT button
To use Interceptor's TTL On/Off script (for TTL in manual) you'll ned to load it from CHDK....also he suggests not having the menu so you can toggle with the ALT-Shutter...or load it automatically and leave it alone
Look at thread titled CHDK S100
Locking card allows CHDK to boot up...CHDK by-passes the lock so pictures taken write to the card...you have to unlock to cut photos from card...remember to re-lock or CHDK won't start.....if unlocked Camera boots just like a "stock" Canon Camera
I just spent a week using Tv with the overided aperature in CHDK....worked well...some of the early shots were underexposed until I played around with fine tuning shutter, aperature and having the flash diffuser on or off...I tried to not play with ISO and I kept at (Canon) 100 (not CHDK 100)
I did find that using my FIX WA lens, I had to drop the aperature....wish I had more time to play... I want to see the affect of using the script with true Canon manual vs the CHDK settings of Tv
To access your setting quickly, set up a user menu...the directions are in the CHDK user manual found on the wiki site...rather easy after you play with it a bit..toggles with ALT button
To use Interceptor's TTL On/Off script (for TTL in manual) you'll ned to load it from CHDK....also he suggests not having the menu so you can toggle with the ALT-Shutter...or load it automatically and leave it alone
Look at thread titled CHDK S100
Locking card allows CHDK to boot up...CHDK by-passes the lock so pictures taken write to the card...you have to unlock to cut photos from card...remember to re-lock or CHDK won't start.....if unlocked Camera boots just like a "stock" Canon Camera
I just spent a week using Tv with the overided aperature in CHDK....worked well...some of the early shots were underexposed until I played around with fine tuning shutter, aperature and having the flash diffuser on or off...I tried to not play with ISO and I kept at (Canon) 100 (not CHDK 100)
I did find that using my FIX WA lens, I had to drop the aperature....wish I had more time to play... I want to see the affect of using the script with true Canon manual vs the CHDK settings of Tv
racerfern
Registered
Hmm, here's a shot of my setup. S100 with Canon DC43 housing, Inon LD port (thinking I should have gone with something 67mm). I drilled two holes to accept the fiber optic cables. Put both strobes on TTL, the 110 will show a green confirmation but only at times (need to test more). Apparently the YS90 does not function in TTL mode via slave so I will have to rethink all this. I normally have longer arms, the setup as you see it is for testing purposes only. So perhaps the 110 in TTL and the 90 set to manual as a fill.
I assume whatever I "discover" above the water will work but just have to adjust for flash power settings. We'll see. Thoughts?
racerfern
Registered
There is now a chdk for 1.02 and I just installed it. Now to learn a ton of stuff in a very short time, hopefully.
Scuba_Noob
Contributor
I have an S95 - generally set it to ISO 100 (or maybe up to 300), Aperture around 6 or higher, Shutter Speed at 1/60 to 1/125. I use external strobes. Full manual. Only RAW. (If you have RAW+JPG, it takes up way too much space, and takes too long). Edit with Lightroom (great program, get it - or just use the Canon software for now) and then maybe Photoshop. Underwater Photography Guide - great site for beginners and intermediate u/w photographers.
I generally don't change the settings much underwater, 'cause it's a hassle with the Ikelite housing. The Recsea is much easier to adjust. Still a great housing.
Without an external strobe, you should still at least have the diffuser that came with your housing. Use this to take macro (close-up) shots using the within-camera flash. With wide-angle shots without a strobe, you're going to have to use auto-white balance and some sort of automatic setting.
Practice in a pool. Having a camera will affect your buoyancy a bit at first, some divers more than others.
I generally don't change the settings much underwater, 'cause it's a hassle with the Ikelite housing. The Recsea is much easier to adjust. Still a great housing.
Without an external strobe, you should still at least have the diffuser that came with your housing. Use this to take macro (close-up) shots using the within-camera flash. With wide-angle shots without a strobe, you're going to have to use auto-white balance and some sort of automatic setting.
Practice in a pool. Having a camera will affect your buoyancy a bit at first, some divers more than others.
dfx
Contributor
You can't. RAW is always the complete and raw data from the image sensor. No processing is applied to the raw data, so it's not cropped either. The files will always have the same resolution. If you want to crop it, you do it on your PC.
PatW
Contributor
I shot with a Canon G11 a number of years back. The S100 in a pretty similar camera.
Always shoot RAW. With RAW, you can adjust the white balance in post processing. I believe that Canon supplies a simple raw adjustment software with the camera. There are many other supported RAW software products out there. I use Lightroom and have had very good success with it. Not only does RAW allow you to adjust white balance without penalty but it also gives you considerable latitude in exposure adjustments, shadow recovery and high light adjustments.
As for housings, there are some good serviceable polycarbonate housings out there. They are economical. However, the aluminum housings are more compact, robust and have much more responsive controls. Of course, you pay 2 to 3 times as much for them. With luck, you can pick up a housing used.
I would suggest to always shoot in manual. I never let the camera adjust anything. You never know in an adjustment mode when the camera is going to take you to an extreme setting.
Generally, after a few ranging shots, you can dial in to a selection of ISO, F stop, shutter speed and strobe setting that works well. Strobe power falls off pretty fast with distance. So on close ups, you will have to dial down the strobe. On long shots, you might have to turn it up. I generally shot with shutter speeds faster than 1/100th of a second. You don't want motion blur. You can adjust strobe power and/or ISO some. I believe the S100 probably does well with ISOs anywhere from 100 to 400 and maybe a bit higher. You will want to check your shots afterwards. I believe you can set it up to display your histogram. The histogram is a good reference point. It is the most accurate thing to use.
With the S100, you might want to get a housing that allows for a close up wet lens. These wet lenses allow decent macro photography. Also, you might want a housing that gives you access to a wide angle wet lens or dome. My Canon G11 had a max of 35mm wide angle (SLR equivilent). It was not wide enough. As I got experienced, I found the closer I got to the subject the better. Water has stuff in it. Even in clear water, if you are close, the shots are sharper. Also the closer you get, the better your strobes work. At close ranges, the strobes can illuminate the subject giving you vibrant colors. A rule of thumb is that anything you shoot, you want to be within 5' of your camera sensor. Closer is better.
Always shoot RAW. With RAW, you can adjust the white balance in post processing. I believe that Canon supplies a simple raw adjustment software with the camera. There are many other supported RAW software products out there. I use Lightroom and have had very good success with it. Not only does RAW allow you to adjust white balance without penalty but it also gives you considerable latitude in exposure adjustments, shadow recovery and high light adjustments.
As for housings, there are some good serviceable polycarbonate housings out there. They are economical. However, the aluminum housings are more compact, robust and have much more responsive controls. Of course, you pay 2 to 3 times as much for them. With luck, you can pick up a housing used.
I would suggest to always shoot in manual. I never let the camera adjust anything. You never know in an adjustment mode when the camera is going to take you to an extreme setting.
Generally, after a few ranging shots, you can dial in to a selection of ISO, F stop, shutter speed and strobe setting that works well. Strobe power falls off pretty fast with distance. So on close ups, you will have to dial down the strobe. On long shots, you might have to turn it up. I generally shot with shutter speeds faster than 1/100th of a second. You don't want motion blur. You can adjust strobe power and/or ISO some. I believe the S100 probably does well with ISOs anywhere from 100 to 400 and maybe a bit higher. You will want to check your shots afterwards. I believe you can set it up to display your histogram. The histogram is a good reference point. It is the most accurate thing to use.
With the S100, you might want to get a housing that allows for a close up wet lens. These wet lenses allow decent macro photography. Also, you might want a housing that gives you access to a wide angle wet lens or dome. My Canon G11 had a max of 35mm wide angle (SLR equivilent). It was not wide enough. As I got experienced, I found the closer I got to the subject the better. Water has stuff in it. Even in clear water, if you are close, the shots are sharper. Also the closer you get, the better your strobes work. At close ranges, the strobes can illuminate the subject giving you vibrant colors. A rule of thumb is that anything you shoot, you want to be within 5' of your camera sensor. Closer is better.
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