Tec Questions

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

> Regarding doubles, is there a size/metal combo that's most versatile or are different combos needed to accommodate different dives? Aluminum 80s, steel 100s, 120s...? Different inspection standards than rec?
Yes, different doubles work best for different situations. I have a set of LP 108s that are great for caves and a lot of other situations, but I would really rather be taking something smaller and lighter on a boat dive. This is especially true when others I am diving with have those smaller tanks. This means that my extra capacity is wasted and often unnecessarily expensive, since we have to plan the dive based on the diver with the least capacity. On the other hand, when going on a much deeper dive, you want that extra capacity. See the next comment for more.
> Maybe a dumb question, and not so important right now but I'm curious - dry suits are probably very common but do guys dive wet in warmer locations (say Cayman) or do you tend to stick with dry to maintain consistency in your configuration?
Different people have different opinions on this. When I dive in Mexican caves, we use AL 80 doubles (or side mount AL 80s). I like to use a 5 mm wet suit. I have never been cold. Others use dry suits, even on relatively short dives.

One issue is matching the suit to the tanks. Some people are pretty insistent that diving with steel tanks calls for a dry suit for redundant buoyancy. Others say that in a hot climate, use a wet suit and a double bladder wing. Others insist that no one should use a double bladder wing. I have done more than a few dives when I absolutely needed the dry suit because of the water temperatures, but the temperature on land was about 100° or more. Believe me, that time on shore or on the boat while dressing out is no fun at all.
 
> Regarding doubles, is there a size/metal combo that's most versatile or are different combos needed to accommodate different dives? Aluminum 80s, steel 100s, 120s...? Different inspection standards than rec?

> Maybe a dumb question, and not so important right now but I'm curious - dry suits are probably very common but do guys dive wet in warmer locations (say Cayman) or do you tend to stick with dry to maintain consistency in your configuration?

You'll end up with different tanks for different dives.

Drysuit in hot locations sucks. For ocean stuff I won't wear a drysuit unless I have to. I think it's dumb to crawl into a plastic bag in the middle of summer to dive 80 degree water using aluminum 80 tanks.
 
My take on this is: identify what your (somewhat realistic) dream dives are right now, and embark on the training for them, and get the gear you need for that training. I'm the process, your perspective may change - keep an open mind. You may find that you have a taste for different dives as well. And don't dwell too much on "sunk investments". When it comes to training, you'll be a better diver no matter what, and much of the gear can be repurposed, or sold at a rather small loss.

Case in point: a buddy convinced me to do cavern / intro cave with him during a caveat ion trip to Playa Del Carmen. He had already sidemount experience, so I had to catch up quickly and took a sidemount course, and, to get to know the cenotes, a few guided cenote tours before embarking on the course. At that time, I had no idea that I would love cave diving, but I got hooked. Fifty cave dives and a full cave course later, I found the limitations, and the need to travel to Mexico a bit limiting and got to warm up to the local ship wrecks in the Great Lakes (take this as a pun, if you want...) And now I'm taking AN/DP to extend my range here locally, and soon do stage cave in Mexico. And, I hate to say, I spent a shitload of money on gear and traning, but it was very much worth it. I don't think I have much gear or skills that I'll never use again (except maybe for that BFK that I bought when I just started out with getting OW certified).

In a nutshell, follow what feels like the right path for you at the moment, and all will be good
 
Been a little while, figured I'd sort of close the loop on this. I've opted to work with a local guy beginning in January. He's a cool dude, is very active
 
It's been a little while, figured I'd post an update. First of all, happy Thanksgiving to everyone. It's kinda small in the grand scheme of things but I do appreciate the input from folks here; very helpful.

Back to the topic, I've opted to work with a local guy beginning in January. He's a cool dude who I think can serve as good mentor; he's also an active member of the tech community, not just getting by on an aging cert; former students tell me he's definitely rigorous in his training, and I really like his proximity as it facilitates practicing and everything in general. Maybe future training will lead to a pilgrimage to a guru but I'll be well served locally for now.

I did look into UTD, heard some good things about them but ultimately didn't want to skip out on using computers, so it's TDI for me.

Regarding gear, I've been researching and have generally developed a game plan for the Christmas sales but figure it's always good to seek input from you guys. Here's what I'm thinking:

Dry suit - Waterproof D1. I know it's a little buoyant but like the overall package, and especially like not needing much in the way of undergarments.

Wing - DR Classic. One question - when is a 12" inflator hose used? My current hose is actually 18" so I figured I'd go for the 16" option but haven't totally sorted that out; pllanning to go with a basic harness but also welcome thoughts on that.

Doubles - Faber HP 100s; input on valves/manifolds is welcomed; currently looking at packages from DRIS and DGX and see a large price difference; not sure why, have to talk with them. Also a little curious about why hot dipped is preferable; is the concern that sprayed cylinders are more susceptible to rust once they get nicked here or there? I don't live by the ocean, anticipate my doubles will see salt water a few times a year.

AL 40 - don't think there's much to this one but please weigh in if you disagree; probably pick up a Worthington or Luxfer when buying the doubles.
 
Wing - DR Classic. One question - when is a 12" inflator hose used? My current hose is actually 18" so I figured I'd go for the 16" option but haven't totally sorted that out; pllanning to go with a basic harness but also welcome thoughts on that.

I have 12" inflator hoses on both my singles and doubles wings. They all came that way from Halcyon.
 
Hey Sunshower, question for you, why a set of double 100s? Here's why I'm asking.... I started out on a set of double 100s and I found them too heavy for me to manage easily. I'm a pretty average build male, but trying to schlep around a set of 100lb tanks started to seem like too much work. I found the 100s especially difficult on the boat when I was standing there wearing my doubles and stage bottles. The boat would be pitching around and I'm standing there in my wetsuit, overheating and straining against the load. Of course the ideal thing is to stay seated until its your turn to splash. But invariably, when I would think its my turn, the diver in front of me would have some trouble and I'd be stuck, standing there bracing myself as best I could. I just found it not fun. I moved to a set of HP 80s and love them. They're 20 lbs lighter on land (80 lbs total) and have all the gas I need for the dives I do. If you're planning to regularly do 200' and beyond, a set of 80s probably won't be sufficient. But if you're like me and enjoy tech dives in the 150-180' range, the 80s rock.

On the buying front, you might consider contacting Joel Michello at Dive Services Inc. in Virginia Beach. He won't be able to match DRIS/DGX prices up front, but you will get an assembled, full set of oxygen clean cylinders. For me, it wasn't worth the hassle of ordering cylinders on line and then having them oxygen cleaned and assembling them myself. Maybe I'm lazy! :) Happy Thanksgiving!
 
Ryan, I appreciate your insight, exactly what I'm looking for. The 100s are per my instructor. I'd like to give you a better answer than that but that's what I have for now.

I'm guessing he may be looking forward to future diving in deeper water or may just want to err on the side of having plenty of gas. I'm ok with it, have accepted that I'll end up with multiple sets of doubles for various dives. A set of 80s may end up in the rotation at some point.
 
A set of 80s may end up in the rotation at some point.

Will end up - not may... :)
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

Back
Top Bottom