Thinking of pulling the trigger on an Oceanic GEO 2.0

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I have a Geo 2.0. I have over 150 dives on it... my girlfriend uses it now, has 20 dives on it and she likes it as well. I have two issues with it though :

-- 1. The ascent rate monitor is not accurate. I think this is an Oceanic issue in general as my Oceanic Pro Plus 3 does the same thing. It indicates an ascent rate much higher than actual.

-- 2. I now realize that I prefer a dive computer that illuminates on it's own rather than, like the Geo 2.0, requires you to push a button to turn the light on.

Despite the issues, I've liked the Geo 2.0 and don't regret owning it.

Cheers,

Jim
 
Any good or bad to be aired on this wrist computer?
Let me hear it.

Thanks in advance.

I've had one for a little over 100 dives.

The Geo 2.0 is truly watch-sized and can be worn as a watch without looking out of place. In some situations this is helpful because having it on your wrist protects it from loss, theft, breakage, etc., and because you may find that you use it as a time reference while swimming, snorkeling, canoeing, etc. It supports nitrox to 100% and gas switches. Navigating through the display is reasonably straightforward since there are four buttons, but ease of use is hampered by the small display which means some of the menus are letter-coded, and it's hard to remember all the letters. Battery life is over a year although annual replacement is recommended. It is not difficult to replace the battery yourself although as with most DCs you do run the risk of flooding the computer if you make a mistake.

The main negative with these is that the display is difficult to read in adverse conditions because of its small size and wimpy backlight. Closely related to this, some information is missing from the main display and it is necessary to push a button to get it. Typically this is temperature and clock, but during deco or a safety stop you also lose elapsed time and max depth and have to push a button to get them.
 
It supports nitrox to 100% and gas switches.

[snip]

during deco or a safety stop you also lose elapsed time and max depth and have to push a button to get them.

I would strongly urge anyone that is doing dives that involve gas switches or deco to use a dive computer that is intended for use in technical diving - which the Geo is not.
 
I have a Geo 2.0. I got a very sweet deal on it from LeisurePro in store. I found two issues, but would still buy it again for my needs at the time:

1. Two of the screws on the watch band have come off (without me noticing). The band is still attached and I've dove it like that many times (I built a string retainer after the first one went just in case, but removed it after 10 or so dives since the band was still working). Altogether, I have 150 dives on it.

2. The algorithm, which I believe follows the RDP tables, is quite liberal. Some people like this, some do not. As an example: I did an afternoon dive with some friends. One friend had done two shallow dives in the morning (both < 18m) with a Sunnto Zoop. He likely had at least a 45 min SI between them. He sat out the first afternoon deep dive so he didn't reverse profile. On the second afternoon dive we compared my Geo 2.0 with one deep dive (30m max) with a 45min SI to his Zoop with 2 morning dives and a surface interval of at least 3 hours after the second. I had a longer NDL, which surprised us. Suunto is known for a conservative algorithm, but that's a pretty significant difference.

I plan to get a Shearwater Perdix as I plan to do longer, deeper dives. I plan to use the Geo 2.0 as a backup timer.

One friend also mentioned to me the DeepBlu Cosmiq, which retails for $299, and I believe includes GF. It's another watch sized computer in the same price range.
 
Replace the stock strap with one of these:

NITROX-17

It will fit over a drysuit with thick undergarments. And it will make it so that if a strap pin breaks, your computer doesn't fall off your arm.

I have this strap on both my watch style computers. It is great!

20 or 22mm?
 
20 mm fit my geo 2.0. I then modified it to add bungees to it and no long use the buckle.

How did you modify it to add bungees? I'd like to do that as well. I didn't find any bungee instrument mounts that seemed to fit.
 
How did you modify it to add bungees? I'd like to do that as well. I didn't find any bungee instrument mounts that seemed to fit.

I removed the stock rubber watch band and added in the Zulu band. The one I bought may not have been a 17” band else I may have left it at that. The Zulu band ended up being a bit short for the dry suit plus loose on a 3 mm or skin.

I added in a third metal loop made out of welding stick to the side opposite the buckle to which I tied two bungees. I looped the bungee through the buckle and tied it back onto itself using a stopper knot which will slip to allow adjusting the length. I have over 75 dives on it and it works for a skin up to drysuit. The tails on the knots should be cut closer as could the extra length on the band. I left them long until I was sure they worked and never got to trimming.
 
How did you modify it to add bungees? I'd like to do that as well. I didn't find any bungee instrument mounts that seemed to fit.

Cut it short, burn holes through it with a soldering iron, press in some grommets, put pieces of bungee or surgical tubing through the grommets and knot them.

I just threw away some straps like that that I had made for the Petrel 2 I used to have. Otherwise, I could have shown you an example the other day. :)

Also, if you're going to do that, you really don't need to buy a NATO band. You can buy some plain nylon webbing of the right width (probably 3/4", for a Geo or Atom) and make it from that.

If you get back up this way, I have everything needed to do this except the right width of nylon webbing. You're welcome to come over, bring some webbing, and we can whip you up a bungee strap.
 

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