Kd,
That broken part is called the High Pressure Seat. Same function as a scuba tank valve high pressure seat. P/N 077632
The way it work is slide up and down inside the stainless steel liner you marked as SEAT HOUSING, unlike scuba tank valve where the HP seat has threads and has to get a person to spin it to close the air path.
Bauer do not sell the HP seat only. They will want you to send it to them and they will change it and calibrate the one you mark VALVE STEM ADJUSTMENT. You are lucky its USD150 in USA. In South East Asia it will set you back near USD350 and must be sent down to Singapore.
At 4500 psi application that HP set get worn out quite fast, at 3000 psi aplication I can use it for 2,000 hours easy.
However the life cycle is not based on hours but rather how often it get OPEN/CLOSED cycle
For those who can't vent but HP seat is OK, what happened is, the brass body of the HP seat developed corossion and the corrosion made it stuck ( cant slide up or down ) inside the stainless SEAT HOUSING . The corrosion of green oxidation actually made the HP seat brass body grow "fat".........:shocked2:. Use 600 grade sand paper and clean the 4 sliding sides of the HP seat I marked red. I had one stuck on me at a mere 175 hours running. This HP seat must slide up/down smooth inside the SEAT HOUSING when properly cleaned.
A cracked HP seat like yours is dangerous because the crack made the HP seat brass body "wider" than it should and that is why it jammed up on the SEAT HOUSING. If there is a spare port somewhere where you can fit a cheap Aqua Marine model 504 safety valve , you may add one and set it +200 psi above your Bauer max pressure setting as insurance.
Bauer kind of safety valve can be used for the lifetime of the filter housing if not the compressor, as long as it gets HP Seat change when needed. There is an-ring too that encircle the SEAT HOUSING, it is P/N N837 but I think you can get aftermarket replacement.
It is 13.94 x 2.52 NBR 90 SHORE.
That HP seat is the only real wearing-off parts. Once in a while the SEAT HOUSING knife edge may get damaged, that is actually the orifice and may cause leak too but rare unless your compressor air production is very dirty. In a P21 or P Zero , this safety valve is in the "dirty air section", meaning before filter cartridge. In older compressor with steel final aftercooler pipe, rust maybe pushed into the PZero and ended up at the knife edge ( orifice ).
For those whose operation is at very salty area, the item marked 5X WASHER will corrode, that washer is the actual spring that fights the high pressure and not merely a washer. If these spring get corroded, the pressure setting may drift. Your spring/washer look very clean Kd.
As a venting valve and safety valve, this Bauer one will outlived the cheapo Model 504 Aqua Environment safety valve which is a real safety valve and will not tolerate too much venting due to its sealing relying on a 90 duro o-ring. Buts its dam cheap to fix/replace this 90 duro o-ring. The model R-2010 newer version of Model 504 and 7500 psi uses same o-ring but different poppet design.
What need to be cleaned is the spin-on adjustment on top of the Bauer safety valve. It has to be clean and smooth spinning at low pressure. Since it is made of aluminum the spinning knob, if one operate it on a boat and often sea water get splashed on it, the spinning know may get corrosion and thread will gale.
The typical properly calibrated safety valve for a 225 BAR model is 3,350 psi, not 3,307 psi. Can't expect something with spring to be that accurate. I usually calibrate myself , that is what the VALVE STEM /ADJUSTMENT is for. Now I open up my safety valve per 250 hours to make sure the HP seat is decent and no corrosion to jam it up again and setting do not drift beyond 3,350 psi.
I use Chisto-lube to lube that brass HP seat 4 corners
...so far so good at 500 hours.
Hope all good with your compressor yah.
IYA
That broken part is called the High Pressure Seat. Same function as a scuba tank valve high pressure seat. P/N 077632
The way it work is slide up and down inside the stainless steel liner you marked as SEAT HOUSING, unlike scuba tank valve where the HP seat has threads and has to get a person to spin it to close the air path.
Bauer do not sell the HP seat only. They will want you to send it to them and they will change it and calibrate the one you mark VALVE STEM ADJUSTMENT. You are lucky its USD150 in USA. In South East Asia it will set you back near USD350 and must be sent down to Singapore.
At 4500 psi application that HP set get worn out quite fast, at 3000 psi aplication I can use it for 2,000 hours easy.
However the life cycle is not based on hours but rather how often it get OPEN/CLOSED cycle
For those who can't vent but HP seat is OK, what happened is, the brass body of the HP seat developed corossion and the corrosion made it stuck ( cant slide up or down ) inside the stainless SEAT HOUSING . The corrosion of green oxidation actually made the HP seat brass body grow "fat".........:shocked2:. Use 600 grade sand paper and clean the 4 sliding sides of the HP seat I marked red. I had one stuck on me at a mere 175 hours running. This HP seat must slide up/down smooth inside the SEAT HOUSING when properly cleaned.
A cracked HP seat like yours is dangerous because the crack made the HP seat brass body "wider" than it should and that is why it jammed up on the SEAT HOUSING. If there is a spare port somewhere where you can fit a cheap Aqua Marine model 504 safety valve , you may add one and set it +200 psi above your Bauer max pressure setting as insurance.
Bauer kind of safety valve can be used for the lifetime of the filter housing if not the compressor, as long as it gets HP Seat change when needed. There is an-ring too that encircle the SEAT HOUSING, it is P/N N837 but I think you can get aftermarket replacement.
It is 13.94 x 2.52 NBR 90 SHORE.
That HP seat is the only real wearing-off parts. Once in a while the SEAT HOUSING knife edge may get damaged, that is actually the orifice and may cause leak too but rare unless your compressor air production is very dirty. In a P21 or P Zero , this safety valve is in the "dirty air section", meaning before filter cartridge. In older compressor with steel final aftercooler pipe, rust maybe pushed into the PZero and ended up at the knife edge ( orifice ).
For those whose operation is at very salty area, the item marked 5X WASHER will corrode, that washer is the actual spring that fights the high pressure and not merely a washer. If these spring get corroded, the pressure setting may drift. Your spring/washer look very clean Kd.
As a venting valve and safety valve, this Bauer one will outlived the cheapo Model 504 Aqua Environment safety valve which is a real safety valve and will not tolerate too much venting due to its sealing relying on a 90 duro o-ring. Buts its dam cheap to fix/replace this 90 duro o-ring. The model R-2010 newer version of Model 504 and 7500 psi uses same o-ring but different poppet design.
What need to be cleaned is the spin-on adjustment on top of the Bauer safety valve. It has to be clean and smooth spinning at low pressure. Since it is made of aluminum the spinning knob, if one operate it on a boat and often sea water get splashed on it, the spinning know may get corrosion and thread will gale.
The typical properly calibrated safety valve for a 225 BAR model is 3,350 psi, not 3,307 psi. Can't expect something with spring to be that accurate. I usually calibrate myself , that is what the VALVE STEM /ADJUSTMENT is for. Now I open up my safety valve per 250 hours to make sure the HP seat is decent and no corrosion to jam it up again and setting do not drift beyond 3,350 psi.
I use Chisto-lube to lube that brass HP seat 4 corners
...so far so good at 500 hours.Hope all good with your compressor yah.
IYA
