Ultima Dry Glove System question

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I'm looking into this system, how about sizing. I have large hands and would require the largest size possible. Antares oval ring system was nog big enough and measuring using the Kubi chart would suggest the 100mm version.
 
Theres only one size for the Ultima. Just measured the suit rings, they're about 85-89mm on the inside.
 
thanks, that rules out this system. I used the Virgo system from sitech which has the same diameter and that just works. A slightly larger diameter would work better.
 
insomniac, could you post about the jig you've created? I tried to switch gloves to the smurf type (Showa 490) for winter... let's just say i feel your pain now. I got one Glove on the Rings after about an hour of fumbling, and then it came off again when i tried to adjust the length of the Glove after the Ring. I nearly threw the whole thing against the next wall. :)
 
What about the Si Tech QCP system?

Forget that. Seems you have oval rings.
 
Five dives on my new Ultima system today. Two yesterday. I am in love.

When I sprung for the $175 ring system (yikes), I called Showa and Ansell both, who supply gloves to my company, and got probably a dozen different glove styles from each company - in several sizes.

I first installed Showa 707's, which are unlined "Marigold" style blue gloves. My hands measure a 9.25, so I chose a size 9 and decided to wear a wet glove over them. I've never wanted dry hands... I wanted dry arms, and no matter what seals I use (cone latex, bottle latex, silicone), I always get some seepage at the arms. I can't express how annoying that's been - not to mention cold and wet.

Yesterday's job was to clean a badly barnacled boat, and I wore the same stainless steel threaded overglove I use when I dive wet.

By the end, I'd holed between the end of the overglove and the ring, where the 707 is exposed. The glove was flooded, but I didn't know until water had weeped up the thumb loop I left under the seal for equalization. Wet arm. Bad idea.

So last night I installed the Showa Atlas 660 - what everyone here calls "smurf gloves" - in a size 10. The installation of them took forever to figure out and finally get right, since the fabric liner requires that the o-ring/hard ring placement be reversed to seal to the outside of the glove rather than the inside.

The trick for installation was to spread some silicone lube (I used the stuff that came in the box with the rings) on the outermost edge of the ring and install the ring on the suit. Then I had a buddy hold all of that while I placed the o-ring in the glove, folded the end over, and then stretched everything as far open as possible. I could get about half of the glove on the hard ring, and then I rolled the rest with my thumbs. Between the lube and my buddy holding it, it seemed to work well, although it did take a lot of effort and a certain carelessness about where the glove was between the o-ring and the hard ring. Once it was on, I simply played with it until I got wrinkles out and the adjustment correct.

I was disappointed to not be able to do this with the Showa Atlas KV660, which is the same glove, but with kevlar. The additional stiffness was just too much to get it on the hard ring.

I'd be very interested in a tool that could do this installation.

Anyway... Zero problems with it today. Solid system, and not a mark on these gloves after working all day. Their protection rating numbers are similar to the protective gloves we use anyway.

Nonetheless, I'd like to try the KV660's and compare the dexterity in the water. The increased protection is something I'm very interested in.

No leaks. No surprises. Easy to get on and off. Durable and great-looking. Very impressed. My first actual dry drysuit dive ever... And I've got probably 700 drysuit dives in two or three years. This suit is my 7th drysuit I've owned.

This is my first set of dryglove rings.

Absolutely bad to the bone.

I have no benchmark to compare... Never dived any other dryglove; I avoided them due to my impression that they wouldn't last long at my work. Apparently that impression is wrong.

...And while I was afraid that the size 10 might feel bulky, my fears were put to rest when a slight squeeze sucked the glove very cleanly to my hand. Dexterity is excellent with the Atlas 660... Much better than my initial impression topside. No liners for me today... Water was 63.

For what it's worth... Since a holed glove means a wet arm for me anyway... Even if my wrist seal is intact and I do NOT use wrist warmers, tubes, or thumb loops under the seal... I cut out my wrist seals (so as to leave a ring of them to seal). That is... I have sleeves open to my gloves. It's great. I absolutely love being sealless. How clean and simple! And donning/doffing is great.

No, I don't anticipate ever diving dry without the drygloves again.

Is it correct to say that these Ultima rings only fit the SiTech oval (QCS) system? Is the QCP soft ring - the part glued to the suit - a different size?

If so... How good is the SiTech glove lock (or other) system? Should my next drysuit be equipped with QCS and Ultima, or QCP and Glove Lock (or other)?
 
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I love the SiTech QCP, but this is a round system, not oval. Easy on and off. The only time I got wet was when it was user error. Second time ever I used the gloves. Just make sure they're locked on straight and there are no issues.
 
Well... Remove the oval part of the QCS system, and the resulting ring is soft and round. That is... The part that's glued to the suit isn't oval.

...So is that ring not compatible with the QCP system? Are they different sizes?
 
Further... Is the Waterproof Ultima dry glove ring system not compatible with the QCP round rings?
 
Five dives on my new Ultima system today. Two yesterday. I am in love.

When I sprung for the $175 ring system (yikes), I called Showa and Ansell both, who supply gloves to my company, and got probably a dozen different glove styles from each company - in several sizes.

I first installed Showa 707's, which are unlined "Marigold" style blue gloves. My hands measure a 9.25, so I chose a size 9 and decided to wear a wet glove over them. I've never wanted dry hands... I wanted dry arms, and no matter what seals I use (cone latex, bottle latex, silicone), I always get some seepage at the arms. I can't express how annoying that's been - not to mention cold and wet.

Yesterday's job was to clean a badly barnacled boat, and I wore the same stainless steel threaded overglove I use when I dive wet.

By the end, I'd holed between the end of the overglove and the ring, where the 707 is exposed. The glove was flooded, but I didn't know until water had weeped up the thumb loop I left under the seal for equalization. Wet arm. Bad idea.

So last night I installed the Showa Atlas 660 - what everyone here calls "smurf gloves" - in a size 10. The installation of them took forever to figure out and finally get right, since the fabric liner requires that the o-ring/hard ring placement be reversed to seal to the outside of the glove rather than the inside.

The trick for installation was to spread some silicone lube (I used the stuff that came in the box with the rings) on the outermost edge of the ring and install the ring on the suit. Then I had a buddy hold all of that while I placed the o-ring in the glove, folded the end over, and then stretched everything as far open as possible. I could get about half of the glove on the hard ring, and then I rolled the rest with my thumbs. Between the lube and my buddy holding it, it seemed to work well, although it did take a lot of effort and a certain carelessness about where the glove was between the o-ring and the hard ring. Once it was on, I simply played with it until I got wrinkles out and the adjustment correct.

I was disappointed to not be able to do this with the Showa Atlas KV660, which is the same glove, but with kevlar. The additional stiffness was just too much to get it on the hard ring.

I'd be very interested in a tool that could do this installation.

Anyway... Zero problems with it today. Solid system, and not a mark on these gloves after working all day. Their protection rating numbers are similar to the protective gloves we use anyway.

Nonetheless, I'd like to try the KV660's and compare the dexterity in the water. The increased protection is something I'm very interested in.

No leaks. No surprises. Easy to get on and off. Durable and great-looking. Very impressed. My first actual dry drysuit dive ever... And I've got probably 700 drysuit dives in two or three years. This suit is my 7th drysuit I've owned.

This is my first set of dryglove rings.

Absolutely bad to the bone.

I have no benchmark to compare... Never dived any other dryglove; I avoided them due to my impression that they wouldn't last long at my work. Apparently that impression is wrong.

...And while I was afraid that the size 10 might feel bulky, my fears were put to rest when a slight squeeze sucked the glove very cleanly to my hand. Dexterity is excellent with the Atlas 660... Much better than my initial impression topside. No liners for me today... Water was 63.

For what it's worth... Since a holed glove means a wet arm for me anyway... Even if my wrist seal is intact and I do NOT use wrist warmers, tubes, or thumb loops under the seal... I cut out my wrist seals (so as to leave a ring of them to seal). That is... I have sleeves open to my gloves. It's great. I absolutely love being sealless. How clean and simple! And donning/doffing is great.

No, I don't anticipate ever diving dry without the drygloves again.

Is it correct to say that these Ultima rings only fit the SiTech oval (QCS) system? Is the QCP soft ring - the part glued to the suit - a different size?

If so... How good is the SiTech glove lock (or other) system? Should my next drysuit be equipped with QCS and Ultima, or QCP and Glove Lock (or other)?


Having owned all the SiTech systems and now the Ultima; I can say hands down the Ultima has worked the best for me. I will say I found it impossible to install the gloves on the system by myself (or with the help of a friend). Perhaps I will finally shoot a video of the process, it only requires a few dollars in PVC parts and some duct tape to build; and is well worth it :)
 

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