Question Valve for 100% O2 Deco Bottle

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arkstorm

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I just acquired a couple of AL40's that I intend to set up as deco bottles. One has a valve and the other does not, so no matter what, I need to purchase at least one new valve. My intention is to set one bottle up for 100% O2 deco and the other for 50%.

DGX sells an "O2 Pro" valve and offers a "Tek Tip" with an explanation of "O2 valve" vs. the "nitrox ready valve" that is about as clear as mud.

In terms of specs...

The O2 valve opens more gradually (more turns to fully open), is lubricant free, and the inlet and outlet threads are non-plated brass. Cost is $75.

The nitrox ready valve has an ordinary opening valve (fewer turns to open), uses oxygen compatible lubricant, and has ordinary chrome plating at the inlet and outlet threads. Cost is $55.

For my 100% O2 bottle, will I need to use an "O2 valve" to obtain a 100% O2 fill?

Should I just splurge the extra $20 and not overthink it?

Should I put "O2 valves" on both bottles?

What is the best practice here?
 
About 15 seconds after you open either package they won't be O2 clean anymore anyway. You can use either, just get them cleaned often-ish. (typically annually is good practice)
 
I spent the extra 20 for the slower opening valve....

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Don’t think it matters much as long as you clean them routinely and use oxygen safe lubricant when you rebuild. Just open the valve slowly.
 
Thank you for your responses. I don't want to cheap out on $20 which, in the grand scheme of things, is a drop in the bucket of what I have spent on tec gear but I just hate it that the dive industry makes me feel like a sucker sometimes.
 
How many O2 regulator-related accidents have there been that can be attributed mainly to opening the valve quickly or to chromed threads? My between-the-lines read of DGX's tek tip is that the ordinary precautions of keeping the reg reasonably clean and using O2-compatible lube has kept most of us away from disaster, but the O2 Pro is available to address at least a couple of "common technical objections to the use of ordinary SCUBA valves with pure oxygen."

The slow-opening valve sounds appealing, but I use my deco and stage regs interchangeably, and I'm not sure I'd want a stage reg that takes many more turns to open or close.
 
How many O2 regulator-related accidents have there been that can be attributed mainly to opening the valve quickly or to chromed threads? My between-the-lines read of DGX's tek tip is that the ordinary precautions of keeping the reg reasonably clean and using O2-compatible lube has kept most of us away from disaster, but the O2 Pro is available to address at least a couple of "common technical objections to the use of ordinary SCUBA valves with pure oxygen."

The slow-opening valve sounds appealing, but I use my deco and stage regs interchangeably, and I'm not sure I'd want a stage reg that takes many more turns to open or close.
More than one dive boat has gone up in flames *exactly* when a CCR's O2 bottle was opened. Would it have caught fire with a slower opening valve? Exactly how many fires? Nobody knows. It's oxygen, do your best to keep things clean and hope for the best, its inherently a wild card.
 
How many O2 regulator-related accidents have there been that can be attributed mainly to opening the valve quickly or to chromed threads? My between-the-lines read of DGX's tek tip is that the ordinary precautions of keeping the reg reasonably clean and using O2-compatible lube has kept most of us away from disaster, but the O2 Pro is available to address at least a couple of "common technical objections to the use of ordinary SCUBA valves with pure oxygen."

The slow-opening valve sounds appealing, but I use my deco and stage regs interchangeably, and I'm not sure I'd want a stage reg that takes many more turns to open or close.

I know of three guys that were burned. One of them is the current director of the WKPP, another is a large distributor of dive gear in the US, the third was a guest diver at a prominent cave system.

It happens, rarely, but it happens.
 
medical costs are higher when compared to spending a few extra bucks on a proper valve (in your case 20$ for what is probably a once in a lifetime expense? for me 23 years of diving never replaced a valve completely (usually replace axis since a "smart" technician removed the valve the wrong way).

To me this is similar as buying a CCR and than complain about helium prices.

Properly clean and use o2 compatible stuff - Not bulletproof but this is the way to go.


regarding your post:
get the o2 premium - even if you have friends that use the regular ones for oxygen (which honestly also seems ok).


Matan.
 
There's also no proof that those valves make any difference whatsoever.

The threads on the seat are finer, it still opens up instantly. Its not a needle valve.


That being said, I spend the extra $20 and have them on all my 100% bottles.
 
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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