Volcano Orfice regrind On a conshelf

[jbrians]

I was given a box of parts and one of the treasures was a Conshelf XIV I believe. (1HP, 3LP ports).
I have many spare parts lying around so I thought I might as well assemble a spare reg. Even with a new HP teflon seat, I get rapid IP rise.
My eyes aren't really good enough any more to check the orfice for nicks but could it be first stage spring pressure or pin length that needs fine tuning?
There is no investment in this reg at all, I'm really just curious as much as anything else.

 

[John C. Ratliff]

I don't think either of those would cause the problem. The spring pressure, even if set too high, would eventually stop if there was a seal. The length of the pin could potentially cause a problem if it is the wrong pin, and the diaphragm is constantly pushing on the pin and holding it open. But that probably is not the problem if it is the right size pin (a Conshelf pin). You may have a nick on the seat, in which case you can recondition it by gluing a piece of very fin emery cloth to an unsharpened pencil, and re-surfacing the orifice (I've done that on a Mistral, and it seems to work).

SeaRat

 

[herman]

Before going after the orfice, are you sure the balance chamber Orings are in good shape? I would change them out before doing much to the orfice, bad Orings will cause the IP to rise fairly quickly....lost one in Bonaire a few weeks ago...had to resort to diving my Phoenix.....now that hurt my feelings. I doubt it's the pin but back the spring adjuster out as far as it will go, if it's the pin, that should stop the IP at some point.

 

[jbrians]

The pin holds the mushroom just about 3/32 inch from bottoming out when pushed so I think it's OK. The HP seat is brand new.. The Orings in the balance chamber are in unknown condition...can they even be removed without causing damage? And I guess the next question would be, can you get them (the two really small ones...one of which is nylon) from other than a USD store? They don't sell parts here.

 

[captain]

Before going after the orfice, are you sure the balance chamber Orings are in good shape? I would change them out before doing much to the orfice, bad Orings will cause the IP to rise fairly quickly....lost one in Bonaire a few weeks ago...had to resort to diving my Phoenix.....now that hurt my feelings. I doubt it's the pin but back the spring adjuster out as far as it will go, if it's the pin, that should stop the IP at some point.

I had a similar problem on a regulator I was sent to troubleshoot why the IP was creeping. It turned out some regulator genius had cut several deep grooves in the side of the balance champer trying to dig out the O ring. Only fix was a new balance chamber. Possible the same genius worked on yours.

 

[Hallmac]

The pin holds the mushroom just about 3/32 inch from bottoming out when pushed so I think it's OK. The HP seat is brand new.. The Orings in the balance chamber are in unknown condition...can they even be removed without causing damage? And I guess the next question would be, can you get them (the two really small ones...one of which is nylon) from other than a USD store? They don't sell parts here.

Yes, those are both included in the service kit, the original nylon was a split ring. Today it is a one piece unit with a concaved seat for the o-ring. The service kit is a 9000-01. Same as the Titan just so you know.

I have seen links posted here for places that sell them on-line.

 

[Hallmac]

I had a similar problem on a regulator I was sent to troubleshoot why the IP was creeping. It turned out some regulator genius had cut several deep grooves in the side of the balance chamber trying to dig out the O ring. Only fix was a new balance chamber. Possible the same genius worked on yours.

That is a common practice and has ruined many a unit. I used to polish those out and try to save them for customers, then I thought why? If they had brought it to me in the first place it would have never happened.

The proper way to remove the diagram is to use pressurized air through the low pressure port prior to removing the Filter and retainer. It will pop right out with no damage.

 

[jbrians]

That is a common practice and has ruined many a unit. I used to polish those out and try to save them for customers, then I thought why? If they had brought it to me in the first place it would have never happened.

The proper way to remove the diagram is to use pressurized air through the low pressure port prior to removing the Filter and retainer. It will pop right out with no damage.

The reg body is in good shape but I don't know about the ting O rings. Removing them lookslike as much being lucky as skillfull.

HP diaphragm is no problem to remove.

 

[Hallmac]

It is much simpler than it looks, you should have no problem.

If the o-ring has hardened it can be a bit frustrating. Cut it in two and the pieces will fall out. Medical hemostats work well. Dental picks if used very carefully make the job fast. If you do use dental picks be careful as they will scratch things easily.

I modified a basket ball inflater valve with a couple of o-rings and a sleeve that will slide through and underneath, and pop them out with a quick burst of air.

By the way, some of the older conshelf had a spring block (it's factory name) that had a lip around the leading edge. It captured the o-ring and made changing it a bit tougher. If you have one of those, spring for a later version they are much easier to service.

Have fun!

 

[jbrians]

the Oring in the balance chamber is split. The nylon one is the older style with the split in it but I don't have a replacement for it.
It came apart with the nylon in first...is that correct?


edit:

I put it together with the viton Oring in last and it works fantastic.