I mentioned that because for me the STA holds the tank better for me so it doesnt move side to side on me
Weight distribution
- Thread starter Jody Freitas
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blueskies_up_ahead
Contributor
I understand that and have it on my shopping list 
One more thing that just came to mind: how would an aluminum bp change the picture? I'm leaning towards aluminum (reasons: travel and steel tanks) but that means more weight needs to be added on a belt, in integrated weight pouches or trim weight pouches. Isn't that going to increase the issue I had?
One more thing that just came to mind: how would an aluminum bp change the picture? I'm leaning towards aluminum (reasons: travel and steel tanks) but that means more weight needs to be added on a belt, in integrated weight pouches or trim weight pouches. Isn't that going to increase the issue I had?
MichaelMc
Working toward Cenotes
An STA also moves the tank farther from you, which means a negative tank has a longer lever arm to roll you over with... So it is a tradeoff.I understand that and have it on my shopping list
One more thing that just came to mind: how would an aluminum bp change the picture? I'm leaning towards aluminum (reasons: travel and steel tanks) but that means more weight needs to be added on a belt, in integrated weight pouches or trim weight pouches. Isn't that going to increase the issue I had?
A lower density (aluminum) plate and lead on the belt or harness front will move your center of mass farther belly-ward, reducing or eliminating the turtling tendency.
I use SS BP/W and an Aluminum BP/W (for travel) both with a STA with weight integrated pockets and don't have your issue.I understand that and have it on my shopping list
One more thing that just came to mind: how would an aluminum bp change the picture? I'm leaning towards aluminum (reasons: travel and steel tanks) but that means more weight needs to be added on a belt, in integrated weight pouches or trim weight pouches. Isn't that going to increase the issue I had?
@blueskies_up_ahead do you recall where on the rig the weight pockets were located? People often place them on the tank straps, or the waistband webbing. If they were on the tank straps, try moving them to the waist band. If they were already on the waist band, try using a belt instead, and put the lead as far forward as is comfortable. If all that fails, then either an aluminum plate or a less buoyant tank would allow you to move more lead toward your belly, like MichaelMc says.
When you adjust your shoulder straps, ideally you want them to be loose (loose enough that you could slip your arm out without loosening anything, if you wanted to). But the waistband and crotch strap should be tight -- not uncomfortably tight, but with very little wiggle room. If your crotch strap was too loose (or if you weren't using one), then when you roll your body, the tank will have a tendency to slide sideways along your back. If that is happening, dialing in the crotch strap length will help.
The other thing that can help is body position. Ideally your hip joint will be straight, and your knee and ankle joints will be close to a 90 angle most of the time. This brings your buoyant lower leg, ankles, and booties up to the same plane as the negative tank, which will help stabilize things. If you already have that body position while in normal trim, but have a tendency to straighten your legs out when you roll your body to the side, then it would contribute to roll instability. So try to keep roughly that leg position even when you're sideways, assuming you have the space to do so.
Hope this helps, cheers.
When you adjust your shoulder straps, ideally you want them to be loose (loose enough that you could slip your arm out without loosening anything, if you wanted to). But the waistband and crotch strap should be tight -- not uncomfortably tight, but with very little wiggle room. If your crotch strap was too loose (or if you weren't using one), then when you roll your body, the tank will have a tendency to slide sideways along your back. If that is happening, dialing in the crotch strap length will help.
The other thing that can help is body position. Ideally your hip joint will be straight, and your knee and ankle joints will be close to a 90 angle most of the time. This brings your buoyant lower leg, ankles, and booties up to the same plane as the negative tank, which will help stabilize things. If you already have that body position while in normal trim, but have a tendency to straighten your legs out when you roll your body to the side, then it would contribute to roll instability. So try to keep roughly that leg position even when you're sideways, assuming you have the space to do so.
Hope this helps, cheers.
blueskies_up_ahead
Contributor
@Brett: they weight pockets were on the waistband, close to the backplate. So the weight sat on the right and left side of my body, roughly at the hips.
As for the waistband and crotch strap, they were tight and not dangling. So I'd say they were adjusted properly. The shoulder straps were tighter than what you describe, but if anything that should help with my problem as it keeps the tank closed to my body, shouldn't it?!
What you say regarding body position is interesting. I'm pretty certain I had my legs stretched out while going side ways and being pulled over on my back. So basically you're saying I should frog kick when on my side, right? I'll try that.
As for the waistband and crotch strap, they were tight and not dangling. So I'd say they were adjusted properly. The shoulder straps were tighter than what you describe, but if anything that should help with my problem as it keeps the tank closed to my body, shouldn't it?!
What you say regarding body position is interesting. I'm pretty certain I had my legs stretched out while going side ways and being pulled over on my back. So basically you're saying I should frog kick when on my side, right? I'll try that.
blueskies_up_ahead
Contributor
I got in the pool again this weekend with two setups.
1. same Finnsub but aluminum backplate and a weight belt. I put 1 kg in each of the integrated weight pouches on the waist strap (again, on each side of the hip), and 2x2kg on a weight belt but very close to the buckle, so more in the center of gravity. This worked perfectly in terms of allowing me to swim on the side without rolling over. I'd say perfect if it wasn't for a slight back pain *sigh*. So, I've been thinking about swapping the weight pouches to ones that don't attach to the backplate via a bolt. And put them where the 2x2kg were, close to the front buckle of the waist strap. I should be able to secure weight pouches with the same system that holds d rings in place, right?! This would allow the weight to pull on the backplate instead of my lower spine. But then I cannot wear a weight belt because the weight would be in the same spot. So the 2kg from the weight belt would go in trim weight pockets on the tank. Which would be the same as having a steel backplate. So this makes no sense, does it?!
2. another backplate & wing system. I don't care much about brand, but it was an alu backplate with an STA and integrated 4kg of weight. The rest went on a weight belt again. The tank actually felt less stable to me and I found myself rolling again a bit more. So not sure I like the STA. However it kept the bottle straight whereas with the Finnsub with no STA I had the impression the bottle wasn't entirely straight. Someone explained that the tank straps pull in different directions to you need to be careful when teightening them. Guess I need to pay attention.
Any further ideas to help me find "my setup"?
1. same Finnsub but aluminum backplate and a weight belt. I put 1 kg in each of the integrated weight pouches on the waist strap (again, on each side of the hip), and 2x2kg on a weight belt but very close to the buckle, so more in the center of gravity. This worked perfectly in terms of allowing me to swim on the side without rolling over. I'd say perfect if it wasn't for a slight back pain *sigh*. So, I've been thinking about swapping the weight pouches to ones that don't attach to the backplate via a bolt. And put them where the 2x2kg were, close to the front buckle of the waist strap. I should be able to secure weight pouches with the same system that holds d rings in place, right?! This would allow the weight to pull on the backplate instead of my lower spine. But then I cannot wear a weight belt because the weight would be in the same spot. So the 2kg from the weight belt would go in trim weight pockets on the tank. Which would be the same as having a steel backplate. So this makes no sense, does it?!
2. another backplate & wing system. I don't care much about brand, but it was an alu backplate with an STA and integrated 4kg of weight. The rest went on a weight belt again. The tank actually felt less stable to me and I found myself rolling again a bit more. So not sure I like the STA. However it kept the bottle straight whereas with the Finnsub with no STA I had the impression the bottle wasn't entirely straight. Someone explained that the tank straps pull in different directions to you need to be careful when teightening them. Guess I need to pay attention.
Any further ideas to help me find "my setup"?
MidOH
Contributor
Use Highland weight plates to move weight to your chest straps. Way better than pouches.
Anywhere between your waist and d rings. Over the d rings didnt work for me.
Weight belt sits on my hip. Bpw waist belt goes on my waist. They shouldnt interfer with each other. Crotch belt goes over the weight belt. Youre already on the right path of moving weight to your front.
Anywhere between your waist and d rings. Over the d rings didnt work for me.
Weight belt sits on my hip. Bpw waist belt goes on my waist. They shouldnt interfer with each other. Crotch belt goes over the weight belt. Youre already on the right path of moving weight to your front.
blueskies_up_ahead
Contributor
I had to google those weight plates. The issue is I need to be able to travel with this bpw. So I have to make it work with a weight belt or (trim) weight pouches. Also with floaty feet I don't think weight on my shoulder straps makes much sense. As for the waist belt and weight belt, I realize one is a bit higher than the other but they are still quite close and I cannot put the weight belt too low or I run the risk of it sliding off. Finally, regarding the crotch strap, I did put it over the weight belt at first but was told to put the weight belt on last to assure I can ditch it.
johndiver999
Contributor
that is the beauty of a freedive, elastic belt. They are INTENDED to be worn very low; their elasticity and stickyness keep them from sliding. As for the belt last, that is a good idea, but way too inconvenient to do.
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