Where to find switch for cannister

[kramynot2000]

I know this has been asked and I searched the threads but couldn't find an answer. I'm building a canister for an HID light in one of those OMS 660' flare containers. I need a small switch. I tried a regular toggle with a boot but the boot was too thin and split.

So, anyone have a source for switches? I'd prefer to keep with a toggle instead of a reed since I already drilled a hole for the toggle.

Thanks,
Tony

 

[willydiver]

I know this has been asked and I searched the threads but couldn't find an answer. I'm building a canister for an HID light in one of those OMS 660' flare containers. I need a small switch. I tried a regular toggle with a boot but the boot was too thin and split.

So, anyone have a source for switches? I'd prefer to keep with a toggle instead of a reed since I already drilled a hole for the toggle.

Thanks,
Tony

Tony, I've searched the web looking for a waterproof toggle switch to no avail. Nothing I've come across is submersible more than a few inches.

Go to Mcmaster.com and look at their toggle switch boots (PN# 70205K25). I just got some and they are a bit more substantial than the cheap black ones you can buy at Home Depot. They are made of a thicker grey silicone rubber. I'm still on a search for a better switch solution, though.

WD

 

[willydiver]

Meant to add, slide on an appropriately sized vinyl "screw end protector" over the toggle boot after assembly. This will add a very durable layer at the point of most abrasion. These are avaiable at the local Home Depot or hardware store.

WD

 

[kramynot2000]

Meant to add, slide on an appropriately sized vinyl "screw end protector" over the toggle boot after assembly. This will add a very durable layer at the point of most abrasion. These are avaiable at the local Home Depot or hardware store.

WD

Thanks for the reply. If I find something I'll let you know as well. Also, this is a good tip, I'll try it!

Tony

 

[Padipro]

This link will take you to a site that sells a sealed mil spec switch that I used. I've completely flooded the canister at least once and the switch stills works like new. In fact I just finished my second, smaller canister, and reused the same switch for this light and it's working perfect.

If you haven't already checked out my DIY site take a look and you'll find links to suppliers for most of the parts you'll need as well as hundreds of great pictures of lights in all stages of construction.

DIY Site

 

[Web Monkey]

I'd use a magnetic reed switch.

You don't need to drill any holes, so it probably won't leak

Just hot glue it to the inside of the cannister. When you move a magnet near it on the outside of the case, it closes. Remove the magnet, it opens.

Terry

 

[Snowbear]

How expensive is that magnetic reed switch??

As to the original question - I recently rebuilt my canister light, including replacing the switch which was corroded due to flooding. There's a huge Radio Shack dealer called Frigid North about 3 blocks from where I work. I just took the old switch in and they matched it up for me. IIRC, it cost less than $4. The old boot was fine, but I went ahead and replaced it anyway. It's a rubber boot with a brass nut and came with an Oring. I lubed the Oring and used it in place of the retaining nut that came with the switch. So far, no floods!

One thing I didn't do that I need to is put a strain relief on the cord where it comes through the lid....

 

[Padipro]

Try these guys out strain relief. If you tell them you're a purchasing agent for some made up company and are looking for samples they might even send you a couple for free. That's how I got my first two for my light.

 

[Web Monkey]

It's about $5 (should be about $2, but it's Radio Shack . . .

http://www.radioshack.com/product.a...y_name=CTLG_002_002_000_000&product_id=49-496

Terry

How expensive is that magnetic reed switch??

As to the original question - I recently rebuilt my canister light, including replacing the switch which was corroded due to flooding. There's a huge Radio Shack dealer called Frigid North about 3 blocks from where I work. I just took the old switch in and they matched it up for me. IIRC, it cost less than $4. The old boot was fine, but I went ahead and replaced it anyway. It's a rubber boot with a brass nut and came with an Oring. I lubed the Oring and used it in place of the retaining nut that came with the switch. So far, no floods!

One thing I didn't do that I need to is put a strain relief on the cord where it comes through the lid....

 

[willydiver]

This link will take you to a site that sells a sealed mil spec switch that I used. I've completely flooded the canister at least once and the switch stills works like new. In fact I just finished my second, smaller canister, and reused the same switch for this light and it's working perfect.

If you haven't already checked out my DIY site take a look and you'll find links to suppliers for most of the parts you'll need as well as hundreds of great pictures of lights in all stages of construction.

DIY Site

Scott,
The website for the mil-spec switches claims you don't need a rubber boot. What is your take on this for underwater use. Also, are the threads the standard 15/32"-32? How much do these switches go for?

Thanks!

WD