Where to find switch for cannister

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I've been thinking of building my own HID light and doing a lot of reading and research. I've often wondered why no one was using the 600' canister from Dive Rite as a base. So someone is?! What is the wall thickness of the canister? How are the end caps secured, screw down with O ring?
Also, found a HID user group on yahoo.com with lots of info., parts lists, etc. if your interested. Switches are available from McMaster-Carr. Let us know when your light is finished and how it worked?
 
willydiver:
Scott,
The website for the mil-spec switches claims you don't need a rubber boot. What is your take on this for underwater use. Also, are the threads the standard 15/32"-32? How much do these switches go for?

Thanks!

WD

WD,

I think the switch is designed to be water RESISTANT at the surface, in other words it will repel rain and snow. Although it seems to have resisted any contamination when the canister was flooded I wouldn't trust it work for an extended period of time without a rubber boot installed over the switch. I just purchased a pair of switch boots from a local marine store, these boots seemed to be a little more heavy duty then the ones I originally bought from Radio Shack. The thread size was the same and the boot screwed right on and held the switch in place just fine. For added water resistance I potted the switch area with some 3M 5200 marine sealant, which is made to be used under water, before I installed the switch into the hole. I also put a small amount on the threads of the switch before installing the boot.

Here's a couple of pictures of my latest creation. The canister is much smaller then my original one that was made for a 12 volt 7 amp gell cell.
 
Padipro:
WD,

Here's a couple of pictures of my latest creation. The canister is much smaller then my original one that was made for a 12 volt 7 amp gell cell.


Man, as always, your projects are top-notch and inspiring. Thanks for the info.

WD
 
Padipro:
I potted the switch area with some 3M 5200 marine sealant, which is made to be used under water, before I installed the switch into the hole. I also put a small amount on the threads of the switch before installing the boot.
Hopefully that switch won't ever wear out or the boot wear through and need replacing. With 5200 it's there to stay. :D
 
The boot on the last light lasted for several years it was the RTV sealent I used around the boot to help seal it that finally gave out and caused the flood. On both the old and new canister I put a switch gaurd so there is less chance of wacking the switch and cutting the boot. I just installed the gaurd on the new canister so it wasn't in the pictures I posted earlier. You are right about the 5200 being some tough stuff. I used it on my boat for a few sealing jobs and it works great and that's the reason I used what I had left over on the light.

Well WD I haven't had the newest creation in the water yet so I don't know how well it will work but it's based on the same design as my old canister so there shouldn't be any problem. Maybe I shouldn't speak so soon though. :11:
 
5200 is beyond tenacious! What made me think of it in regard to your use though was I need to replace a worn out switch in my 10w HID. If it were bedded with 5200 I'd be looking to make a new lid. :D
 
Here's a couple of pictures of my latest creation. The canister is much smaller then my original one that was made for a 12 volt 7 amp gell cell.

Scott,

Very nice as always. I would love to have something that didn't flood. It seems like me and watertight stuff just don't synch. I can't do plumbing that doesn't leak, I can't build a housing, I can't....

But, I built a can build GS1000 motorcycle from parts sitting in a milk crate for about a year and I repaired and put back on the road a 1964 London Taxi. And yet I can't get a stupid canister from flooding!!!!! This is so frustrating!.....

Tony
 
kramynot2000:
Scott,

Very nice as always. I would love to have something that didn't flood. It seems like me and watertight stuff just don't synch. I can't do plumbing that doesn't leak, I can't build a housing, I can't....

But, I built a can build GS1000 motorcycle from parts sitting in a milk crate for about a year and I repaired and put back on the road a 1964 London Taxi. And yet I can't get a stupid canister from flooding!!!!! This is so frustrating!.....

Tony

To bad you didn't contact me earlier this year. I was out that way last summer for my son's graduation, he lives out in Galt, I may have been able to stop by and help you out with the canister.

What seems to be the trouble with it? Can you tell where it's leaking from?
 
I've made a 12V/ 50W halogen video light and a camera strobe from ABS pipe (one 2" diameter and the other 4" diameter). I used the short lengths with threaded ends and got the "end caps" to go with them (these even came with an o-ring). These fittings are about $3-$5 each. I aquasealed plexiglass to one end as a "window" and used a switch from an old second-hand Ikelite pistol-grip flashlight ($5). So far I've used them below 100 feet regularly. Some one told me these fittings are rated to 500 psi (external?), but I've never seen it in writing. They don't look pretty, so I might have to clean them up a bit if I ever hit the catwalk in Paris.
 
Padipro:
To bad you didn't contact me earlier this year. I was out that way last summer for my son's graduation, he lives out in Galt, I may have been able to stop by and help you out with the canister.

What seems to be the trouble with it? Can you tell where it's leaking from?

Shoot, I should have contacted you!

Well this time I finally figured out that the leak came from a small tear in the switch boot. I think that is the most frustrating problem is testing and trouble shooting. I put the can in the sink and there's no problem, but then I gotta test it at depth and when it floods I can't figure out why. Anyway, I just realized I had an old canister that was used for an SLA battery in the garage and it has one of the heavy duty boots. I'm gonna pull that off and see if it fits on my switch and try again...

Thanks for your help though and I do get on to your website quite often to get some ideas.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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