Who can ID this manifold? Do I need to rebuild?

[AbyssalPlains]

Hi all,

I bought a used Dive Rite manifold (picture attached). Dove it a couple of times, but disassembled them soon afterwards because the tanks were loaners from my LDS. Now I want to put my own doubles rig together using HP100 tanks.

The manifold only has two markings, "Dive Rite" and the number "100." How can I tell whether this is a 300 or 200 bar manifold? Does it matter? I read on other posts that you can safely use a 200 bar manifold on tanks pressurized to 3440 psi. Is this accurate?

Also, since I have no idea how old this manifold is I feel I should rebuild it. It looks like it's in good shape, but there is a bit of green corrosion to be seen on one of the fittings.

Finally, I read about different o-ring styles, face-style and barrel-style, or something along those lines. Which kind is my manifold and does it matter?

I know I should replace the valve knobs, too.

So, between rebuilding this manifold and buying new valve knobs for it, is it worth the effort? How much would a rebuild kit cost? I am planning on doing this myself. But I would consider selling this manifold and starting over with a brand-new one if it's simply not worth the effort of if I would compromise my safety otherwise.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Ste Wart]

It's the 200 bar manifold. The 300 wouldn't have inserts as yoke valves can't handle that much pressure.

 

[knowone]

"They" call it 200 BAR, because of the YOKE inserts.

It will handle any pressure coming out of a scuba tank.

It is a 10 year old or something with a barrel O crossover.

The barrel crossover interface is much more better than faces.

It accepts generic kits, with today's knobs bigger and more flexible.


Poster 2 appears to be another of the ill informed.

 

[Ste Wart]

Apparently you're the mis-informed.

While the valve will handle the pressure of the tank, I think you will find that the 300 valve has more threads. Hence why there are 232 DIN and 300 Bar DIN valves and regulators.

If you serviced valves and regs you might know this.

 

[rcs9250]

Be aware that DiveRite makes two different manifold rebuild kits. There is one for the coarse threads and one for the fine threads. The threads are referring to the threads on the actual plug and seat assembly. Item 2 and 3 in the Thermo valve parts explosion on the link.
Nitrox-Ready Valves by Thermo - Dive Gear Express
They use to use a fine thread that took more turns to turn the valve off or on. They switched to a coarse thread to allow a quicker shutdown in the event of a malfunction. You would have to dis-assemble the manifold to determine which one you have. Once you have it apart you would count the threads on the plug. The old seies was a 7 thread. The new series is a 5 thread. As seen in the parts list about 3/4 of the way down the linked page. The 5 thread is a DR-VA2410 and the 7 thread is the DR-VA2540. Modular Valve Systems by Dive Rite - Dive Gear Express
Hope this helped.
Dive safe.

 

[Scared Silly]

Regarding the fine versus coarse threads. At least with Sea Elite which also made the manifold for DiveRite there is marking on the left side of the cross over which indicates the threading. One grove is fine whereas two groves is coarse. Seeing none on this manifold (and the older hand wheels) I would guess that it is fine threads on the valves.

Original source of the above info.

The Deco Stop

 

[AbyssalPlains]

Thanks for your replies so far. I wasn't able to find a service kit for manifolds on the Divegearexpress website, but given that I'll likely need two new burst disks and three valve knobs ($45) in addition to the service parts, I'm starting to wonder if it's worth the trouble of if I should just buy a new manifold, which will have the additional benefits of the 300bar threading and the coarse valve knob threads.

Does anyone know how much a service kit would set me back?

 

[Jimmer]

Apparently you're the mis-informed.

While the valve will handle the pressure of the tank, I think you will find that the 300 valve has more threads. Hence why there are 232 DIN and 300 Bar DIN valves and regulators.

If you serviced valves and regs you might know this.

I don't know about the UK but in North America we really only have 300 bar regulators, that of course work in 200 and 300 bar valves. We also don't have any 300 bar tanks here, the highest service pressure commonly seen over here is about 240 bar. It will work fine with any tank/reg combo in use in North America.

O.P. if you are serious about getting rid of it, let me know what you want. I am looking to set up another set of doubles this summer, I already have the better valve knobs here, and I have a friend that owns a DiveRite dealership, so getting rebuild parts won't be a problem for me.

Jim

 

[AbyssalPlains]

Some more specs: The DIN orifices have 7 threads. When I screw in a reg, about 4 threads stick out. It takes about three turns to open/close the valves.

 

[Tortuga68]

Friends don't let friends buy jacket-style BCs

Heheh