Must Get Equipment and Where?

[chrisch]

...
So – since I am going to do an advanced open water dive – "night dive" equipment are needed....

Torch 20 bucks.

Sorted.

Please remember all scuba gear is made primarily to give profit to the shop and manufacturer. Until you really know what you want, rent. At a rough estimate 99.95% of all divers buy a load of stuff that they change 3-4 years later. You can sometimes get some money back selling the junk on eBay to another new diver that is slightly less inclined to buy new junk. When people buy junk they go to a forum and post how wonderful it is (so they feel better). A few years later they buy something new and post how junk the old junk was.

Good luck.

 

[victorzamora]

At a rough estimate 99.95% of all divers buy a load of stuff that they change 3-4 years later.

I think tbone's list was as comprehensive as it gets for stuff in her price range that won't ever need changing. The DSS BPW will essentially never need replacing. The wetsuit will need replacing, but that's just because neoprene wears out. The Seabear H3 (while not my favorite) will certainly carry OP farther than she's ever likely to go (full expedition Trimix and CCR). The regs are high quality, basic regs from a great company. She has fins and mask. Lights can be had cheaper than what tbone linked, but the ones he linked I've really fallen in love with. Fins&Mask are all personal preference.

One option I'd provide OP is to skip the Seabear ($1k) and use that money plus tbone's wetsuit budget on a budget drysuit. Take everything tbone suggested (minus fins if you like yours) except computer. Then get the Deep6 computer when it releases (January projected ship, the founder is very reliable and well-known for great gear and service) and money towards a trip.

$2500 can be spent very quickly on subquality gear you'll be replacing soon, or it can be spent on stuff you'll never need to change. It can also be half the cost of a top-end made-to-measure drysuit. The stuff you'll want to avoid are the profit-marginizers. Most stuff a most shops sell they sell because it's a huge profit for them: jacket BCs have much higher markups, some computers, most fins, ANY snorkel, some masks. I see people with 6 retractors and a "fully-featured" BCD, fancy aeroelastic super-gimmick fins, and a fancy snorkel and I can't help but recommend a different shop.

Edit: Sorry, I misread and thought you wanted a setup for local diving and bonaire. Updated to drop the drysuit recommendation.

 

[beaverdivers]

The only item I KNOW I want is a Scubapro Ladyhawk BCD – which costs a pretty penny. I am aware that a good regulator is important too – but I have no idea how to access that.

Any help/advice is appreciated.

The Scubapro LadyHawk is an excellent choice. I would recommend the MK25/S600 from Scubapro for your regulator. I would add the XP-10 by SubGear/Scubapro. You can get a Scubapro AIR2 or oct, then you qualify for the Free Parts for Life program.

You will be able to put your new gear to good use in Bonaire; it is a perfect next step. Your gear will last you a lifetime of diving.

 

[chrisch]

.... will certainly carry OP farther than she's ever likely to go (full expedition Trimix and CCR). .....

Really? Do a GUE course and all that kit is junk.

....You can get a Scubapro AIR2 ....

You could, but then you really would have a worthless piece of junk.

 

[victorzamora]

Really? Do a GUE course and all that kit is junk.



You could, but then you really would have a worthless piece of junk.

Really? A high quality backplate/wing and computer with gauge mode would be junk? What about the drysuit and regulators? Man, GUE must have some WEIRD requirements nowadays....

 

[bamafan]

You are going to Bonaire the diving doesn't get much easier. The only thing I would consider buying new is a wetsuit. A 3 mil is way more than enough in Bonaire. A good pair of dive booties are definitely worth the money there as the shore entries are rocky. Bonaire doesn't really have nice sandy beaches. The rest of the items just buy off of Ebay / Craigslist. Get a cheap nitrox single gas computer with a user replacable battery. Forget the air integration etc. Just a cheap used Nitrox computer. For a bc I would recommend a backplate and harness. Again used you can get a Halcyon one in the $350 range with the single tank adapter. Regs just buy some used ScubaPro regs. You can get them serviced anywhere and you don't have to worry about them going out of business like some small companies that sell rebranded Tiawanese / Chinese products. You can buy a mk 25, mk 20 or mk 10 with a G250 second stage for well less than $200. Get it serviced and you have a much better reg than the Tiawanese / Chinese rebranded crap. You do not need some great light for nighttime reef diving. Just get an led light that has regular batteries. You don't need the rechargeable ones. They offer a longer burn time but in your case are a maintenance item that isn't needed. You can find a 800 - 1000 lumen led light for $50 each easily. As far as a drysuit wait till you are ready to dive in colder water. Just stay away from the Pinnacle Black Ice as the Merino wool lining is laminated onto the inside of the suit at the same time they seam the suit. The seams can't be repaired. Just call Steve Gamble at Gamble Scuba in Gainesville Florida and ask him. I think some of these guys posting must get kick backs or discounts the way they recommend some places and gear. For under a $1000 you can have a really nice setup that will last you a long time. It is your money and you can certainly waste it as you see fit. Believe me I learned the hard way.

 

[nakatomi]

Wow, that's a lot of good advice in this thread, plus some completely over the top advice too

So really, someone is just starting out as OWD and all of us (most likely including the OP) still have not too much of an idea what's his/her diving future has in store.
And already $1000 dive computers, $1300 drysuits and equipment a friend makes and that is not on the market is being suggested? Hm...
Oh well, never mind...

To the OP, I would look into getting a wetsuit for Bonaire that fits well, 3mm sounds good to me to start off with and they don't cost much. You will also need booties and of course a good mask and fins (I would prefer blade fins like Mares Avanti).
The rest of the equipment (bc, computer, regulator(s), tanks, weights) you could try to rent until you are sure you know what you want.
Obviously for cold water diving, you will eventually need a dry suit. Do a little research on a British company called Seaskin. They make very nice suits, made to measure, at way under $1000 that will outlast suits like the Pinnacle.

The Scubapro BC you mentioned looks to be very good. It has integrated weight pockets and I see nothing wrong with it. Others have mentioned a backplate/wing combination. That's another good option, BUT it may require additional instruction or mentoring to even get it set up properly, and of course to dive it.

As to the regulators, I would recommend looking into sealed regs that will work well in cold water. Personally I like Apeks regs, but Scubapro are nice too.
As most shops will be able to service Scubapro, that may be a good option.

The dive computer depends on your preference and if you would like one that is air integrated, which I'm not a friend of. If you buy the XP that has been recommended and end up selling it for something more advanced, you won't lose much money. And besides, if you do technical dives later on, you'll require a backup computer anyway and the XP will be fine for that purpose.
You might also consider getting a good DSMB so you can shoot a surface marker if needed. This is a skill you should learn, if not already in OWD, during your AOWD dives. It makes sense to own an SMB later on because many places don't have them for rent, plus you will be most familiar with the type that you own and use.

 

[tbone1004]

Really? Do a GUE course and all that kit is junk.



You could, but then you really would have a worthless piece of junk.

Where did we miss other than the lights? Which are based off an archaic insistence on alkaline batteries? I agree that NIMH isn't ideal, but lithium is just fine for backups. Either way, you can't use them, but other than that everything else is kosher


Regulators:

• Single tank: one second-stage regulator must supply a 5 to 7 foot/1.5 to 2 meter hose (2 meter long hose is required for all cave classes). The first stage must supply a pressure gauge, inflation for the buoyancy compensator (BC), and a means to inflate a drysuit where applicable.
• Double tank: one of two required first stages must supply a pressure gauge and provide inflation for a drysuit where applicable. The other second stage must supply a 5 to 7 foot/1.5 to 2 meter hose and an inflation source for the BC.

Check-these are nominally identical to Apeks XTX50/DST's and fit all those requirements

1. Backplate system:
   • Should be held to the diver by one continuous piece of webbing. This webbing should be adjustable and should use a buckle to secure the system at the waist.
   • A crotch strap is attached and looped through the waistband so as to prevent the system from riding up a diver’s back.
   • The continuous webbing should support five d-rings;
     • The first placed at the left hip
     • The second placed in line with a diver’s right collarbone
     • The third placed in line with the diver’s left collarbone
     • The fourth and fifth are placed on the front and back of the crotch strap where divers plan to use advanced equipment like DPVs.
   • The harness below the diver’s arms has small restrictive bands to allow for the placement of reserve lights. The webbing and system retains a minimalist approach.
2. Buoyancy compensation device (BC):
   • A diver’s BC is back-mounted and minimalist in nature.
   • It is free of extraneous strings, tabs, or other material.
   • There are no restrictive bands or restrictive elastic affixed to the buoyancy cell.
   • Wing size and shape is appropriate to the cylinder size(s) employed for training.
3. Check-only difference between DSS and Halcyon is the STA and backpad, neither of which are specified. It even comes with the retaining bands for backup lights.

1. At least one time/depth measuring device.

Check-all of the computers mentioned above have gauge mode, Leonardo, Deep6, Seabear, etc.

1. Mask and fins: Mask is be low-volume; fins are rigid, non-split

Check-the Dive Rites aren't ideal for doubles because they are neutrally buoyant, but since they come with spring straps and are a blade style fin, they fit the rules

1. Exposure suit appropriate for the duration of exposure.

Check

where did we miss?

---------- Post added November 24th, 2015 at 12:49 PM ----------

again, the only reason I mentioned the Seabear was to get the total to $2500 to show for reference, also disclaiming you can go cheaper. No kickbacks either, you know that, well at least until Deep6 comes out, then we all get kickbacks.

Used gear is highly recommended, you just have to look for it, so it becomes more difficult to recommend in these types of threads. There was nothing good in the local craigslist for the OP or I would have put that in there.

 

[Bazal]

Heya,

WOW that is a lot of suggestions!!! I will certainly have to look into all of them - thanks!!

On another note, I came back from the dive shop - I tried a small NEW lady hawk - felt very stiff - then the shop owner let me try her used small size Lady Hawk - felt great! I have been told the vest requires you to break into it. I need to know - is this true? I won't suger coat this - I have a big chest and if I were to wear a 7mm at any point - I am not sure the chest strap would fit (assuming - I will likely not and opt for a dry suit - but I am keeping my options open). The USED lady hawk seemed to have decent room - I tried the medium sized one and it was too lose around the stomach area. I am told I can test it out in the pool but only after I buy it.

The reason for the interest in the lady hawk are

1- Back inflate... I think I need that
2- The person who trained me in my open water - he spend the most time with me - based on my "complaints"/needs (LOL) seems to suggest that
3- I love the placements/buttons on that vest

I know these are stupid reasons - but for an inexperienced person such as myself, that's all I can think of now. I believe as I start gaining more experience, I will start to eventually understand what I truly want/need. No dry suit for me now until I become a more confident diver/gain more experience/figure out what I REALLY want.


I starting looking into first/second stages - and OMG there are sooo many options - I feel overwhelmed

My dive shop suggested since I want the Lady Hawk - I should go for a ScubaPro package since it comes with unlimited life parts warranty - and was told that could cost you MORE than some of the items themselves since they last a long time

Their suggestions are:

1- MK17/S600 (first stage/second stage) - MK17 (diaphram) is a sealed reg so told should work better esp in cold water
2- R095 (Octo)
Both of these are $800 Canadian = $601 US

3- Gauge Console (don't remember name) - standard one
$200 Can = $150 US

4-Galileo Luna Wrist Dive Watch (not including the transmitter) - the person who works there swears by this watch - apparently it can read how much air you have/it has a 80% compass/nitrox reading etc etc
$1000 Can = $752 US

5- Lady Hawk (no Air 2 - which is fine since I have not been trained on that)
$749 Can = $563 US

Total Package = $2600 = $1956 + 13% Tax (13% tax KILL ME - Ontario thief tax)

Price seems fine to me - a little weary of the dive computer due to price - but since it's in my budget I am willing to eat it if worth it. The parts seem reasonable to me (but again I wouldn't really know).

For my night dive, I was told I need three lights - one on the back of the air tank (I don't remember price but it was inexpensive), a back up light and a regular light - those seem to run around $200+. The owner said a Sola Light & Motion was great if I could budget for it (both spot/wide light) + could place it on hand. The Sola lights are pretty expensive - I light the idea of a spot light (easier to navigate at night - light will shine through the sea particles) and the wide light maybe for photography but this seems to cost as much as the regs (at least the 2000 lumen ones). I like tbone's lights in link - thought if I were to buy them - NO way I'm placing them on my mask LOL - how many lumens are those? Realistically is 500-1000 lumens enough?

Lastly - this part is going to be annoying as I can google it - but since I am posting about all my equips, might as well give it a shot. Sorry if I bother anyone here. During my Open Water Dive - I tried on a 7mm websuit and I hated it with a passion!!! It was stiff, unbelievable hard to move into, was too tight in all the right parts!!! If I ever attempt a cold water dive - I will most likely invest in a dry suit. On another note - I do need a 3mm websuit for warm water - they owner let me try a 3mm super stretch Tilos websuit (about $229 Can = $172 US) because he knew how much I "loved" websuits - Crazy enough... I actually LOVED those - but unfortunately it went a little too deep into a certain region and the larger sized one was too big around my abdominal area - they had other wetsuit models there but I am kind of in love with the super stretchy ones. Anything on the market that is super stretchy or lady friendly? I am aware of skin suits - but they don't provide much insulation.

Thanks!!!

PS. Super sorry for the lengthy post!

 

[runsongas]

back inflate works good enough for a lot of people, but with a continuous harness on a bpw, you don't need a chest strap at all. the galileo is overkill and expensive imo. you can get a decent nitrox computer for 200 to 250 (mares puck pro, cressi leonado, oceanic/hollis etc) and a spg for 60 to 80. scubapro regs are good, but its a lot of money to spend on regs when HOG regs are half the money.

the strobe that some people stick on tanks can be annoying and not really required. you can get decent led lights for 50 to 80 bucks (like the dgx 600/800, dris 1000 etc) each these days that are plenty bright that last for 1 to 2 hours. sola lights are very nice but also pricey as they mainly are targetted for video/camera work.

some internet shops you can check out are www.divegearexpress.com, Buy Scuba Dive Gear & Accessories Online | Discount Scuba Gear Store | Dive Right In Scuba | www.diverightinscuba.com - Dive Right in Scuba, Buy scuba equipment and dive gear from Scubatoys.com - Discount Scuba Dive Gear

they all should ship to canada and if you buy enough, shipping is free.

all told you can probably cut your cost in half roughly by going with a hog reg set, store brand or hog bpw, and a cheaper nitrox computer without ai transmitter.