continous blending

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barrmust

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Location
Baltimore, MD
i hava a compressor and am looking to continous blend nitrox with it. what oil do i need to use in it? also what % can i blend through it? it is a eagle air 15 cfm davey style head compressor.

Russ
 
Buy Oxyhacker Companion and read the pertinent chapters.

Also do a search over on Decostop.com and you'll find tons of stuff.

You'll have to switch to a synthetic oil, which if you have some hours on your existing compressor, is a pretty involved process. Nothing to difficult, but you'll have to do a number of changes to flush out the carbon deposits from the mineral oil.
 
synthetic oil and please try to stay within rec limits 40% max. Heat and O2 don't mix so try I run 32 and 40 thru a compressor all day not a problem
 
Barmust, a good choice is Ultrachem Chemlube 451. There are other diesters such as Anderol 455 which are suitable but the Ultrachem 40W synthetic is easy to obtain. If you decide to use a food grade oil, Ultrachem sells a high performance, 30W synthetic mineral oil as Omnilube 455. I use this oil in a Bauer Capitano and endorse it for NITROX. NUVAIR sells in 1 gal or 5 gal under their name. Don't worry about a purging ritual. Your compressor, unless it is swimming in sludge, does not need that. However, you will have to do one followup oil change in order to drain off remnants of old, mystery oil.
 
thanks for the replys.

so if i blend less than 40% use the compressor and over 40 % use pp blending? also you recomend the chemlube over the omnilube? i just want to use the best choice. my other question is about oil change intervals. i read that the food grade oil will require changing the oil sooner and it is harder on the compressor parts. is this true and if using the oil you recomend what oil change intervals would you recomend?

i have the oxyhacker book and sometimes you still need to ask a question about something.

Thanks
Russ
 
barrmust:
thanks for the replys.

so if i blend less than 40% use the compressor and over 40 % use pp blending? also you recomend the chemlube over the omnilube? i just want to use the best choice. my other question is about oil change intervals. i read that the food grade oil will require changing the oil sooner and it is harder on the compressor parts. is this true and if using the oil you recomend what oil change intervals would you recomend?

i have the oxyhacker book and sometimes you still need to ask a question about something.

Thanks
Russ


For CBing in a compressor with a small sump, a reasonable oil change interval is 80-120 hours. Bauer will tell you you can go a 1000 or something like that but of course they sell compressors :D The only way to know what's "best" is via oil analysis for wear particles, etc. But an oil change only costs a couple dollars so there's little reason to push the limits.

When changing oil... Be sure to change the filter at the same time to capture any surge of volatile hydrocarbons vaporizing out of the fresh oil.
 
barrmust:
thanks for the replys.

so if i blend less than 40% use the compressor and over 40 % use pp blending? also you recomend the chemlube over the omnilube? i just want to use the best choice. my other question is about oil change intervals. i read that the food grade oil will require changing the oil sooner and it is harder on the compressor parts. is this true and if using the oil you recomend what oil change intervals would you recomend?

i have the oxyhacker book and sometimes you still need to ask a question about something.

Thanks
Russ

Personally, I like the Omnilube 455. This is a very advanced, non toxic synthetic mineral oil that has unusual resistance to oxidation, wear and carbonization. The flash point is lower than Chemlube 451 but still high enough be classified as "high flash point", low volatility. The food grade oil won't strip paint and presumably, carbon, like the diester oil but I don't see any advantage over poly-alfa-olefins because Omnilube is reluctant to carbonize in the first place.

Now, you can do me a favor. Who has been saying that stuff about food grade oils? Can you point me to a reference?
 
thanks for the info guys. i am in the process of getting this compressor up and running and am trying to do it right the first time. so i am sure i will have more questions later.

the two passages that i read were:

the technical guide to gas blending:
copyright 2000

page 37 at the top:
"oil free compressors are mandatory in a continous blending systems becuse oxygen rich atmospheres are being compressed."

page 11 in the middle:
"if an oil lubricated compressor is used to compress the nitrox, then this requires some modifications.the oil must be replaced with o2 compatable oil which must be monitored and changed frequently."

"a lot of strain is placed on the compressor and maintenence requirements are usualy demanding"

that is what i read. if i took any of it out of context that is why i am here asking questions.

Thanks again
Russ
 
OK, thanks. I got a laugh from that. Compressing NITROX puts no unusual strain on a compressor excepting the oiless type. The dry sump compressors like RIX don't like compressing a clean gas as water from the atmosphere constitutes a lubricating agent but they will do it with a slight heat penalty. This has no effect on compressors which have an oil sump. There is no "oxygen compatible" lubricant excepting the $600/quart stuff made by Dow Chemical. It is a fluorinated hydrocarbon, a kind of liquid Teflon. All the compressor operator can do is a kind of risk assessment or trade off of benefits and risks. For NITROX and lubricating oils the key is O2 concentration and heat. The combination causes oxidation of the oil and is unavoidable. However, it is relative to the type of oil. Omnilube PAO oil is 2.5 times as resistant to oxidation as any diester that I have heard of which is used in divers' compressors. This conclusion came to me after analyzing the data received over the telephone to various vendors and manufacturers like Ultrachem (they wouldn't answer my Emails except with an occasional platitude and their published data sheets are thin). Oxygen hazards should be weighed against mechanical properties of the oil. Bauer, for example, tests their compressors by running them into the ground. Under these conditions of heat and wear they decided in favor of the very heavy, diester oils like Anderol 455. They do a fairly good job of keeping the valves clean but to me are a little bit creepy. Pthalate esters are viewed with suspicion cancer wise and some Euros have taken action to restrict or control in some products. However, Omnilube PAO oil is possibly safer and though lighter in weight and therefore having a naturally lower flash point, contains advanced additives to control oxidation and wear, etc. It is impressive stuff, especially for a food grade oil. It is not known to be a good solvent and I can't comment on long term scouring action WRT compressor valves. However, the residue which I have seen appears to be soft, not hard as flint like I've seen with some esters. Bottom line is that the jury may declare a mistrial and never come to a firm conclusion. My bet is that PAO's like Omnilube are the way to go.
 
As pesky has said, there's no "best oil". I would definately avoid the mineral oils for CBing since you are more likely to get CO production from partial combustion with high heat and high ppO2s. I have Chemlube 751 (a full synthetic) which came in my Alkins and is the only manufacturer recommended oil. It is viscous though and some compressors may not like it. Does have a high flash point which is a plus.

Using a cartridge with hopcalite is prudent (actually always) but even more so when CBing. If you are PP blending some mixes then you'll probably want 2 filters to ensure you don't have hydrocarbon breakthrough (however minimal) near the end of a filter's life. My second filter uses hopcalite, while my first is a simpler hand packable unit.

A belt + suspenders approach will serve you well with compressors and filtration.
 

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