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I should have added that with the larger steel tanks moving the tank further away from your back will affect your center of gravity. Maybe with the inherent buoyuancy of aluminum tanks this problem is minimized. I forget some people still use aluminum, I haven't used them in years.
It's the same physics as standing up in a kayak, the higher you place weight the more unstable they become. By staying low in a kayak or canoe the more stable they remain. Same with placement of a tank on your back, the closer it is to your body, the less it will tend to roll you.
I am hoping it will not be difficult to set up and get used to after wearing a BC the last 50+ dives.
With the switch to the DR SS plate/harness, HP100, and a new 7mm full suit with hooded vest, I am thinking 6 for the BP/W, 6 for the tank, so 12 lb off the belt. This would take the belt from 24lb to 12lb. Nice. Can't see the need yet for the XS scuba weight pouch on the tank cam bands. Want some ditchable weight.
Thanks for all the comments and advice.
Assembly is straightforward and you'll probably love the improvement in your trim the first time you dive with your BP.
I just bought a HP100 from the LDS at their annual sale, good price. It is a Worthington HP100 with the XS scuba valve.Which HP100 are you getting? If it's a Faber FX series they're pretty much neutral when empty so you'd end up taking about 4lbs off compared to an AL80. If you're getting a heavier HP100 (between -2 & -3 lbs when empty) then you'd be taking about 6lbs off.