Dry glove basics

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jduncan:
Got it. Why the clip on the second stage?

Long hoses can dangle when not in use. You clip off the second stage when not using it, for instance, when breathing off of someone else's long hose, when walking around top-side, or when breathing off of a stage. Keeps things streamlined and lessens the chance of it snagging on something.

Lots of stuff on the board about this if it is interesting, check out the Hogarthian or DIR forums in the technical diving section for more.
 
jduncan:
Got it. Why the clip on the second stage?

It's to stow it when not in use (doing deco, sharing air, gearing up).
 
I am not DIR but follow some of their equipement guidelines as it just makes sense. I have a 5 foot reg hose and my backup is bungied around my neck. The 5 foot hose is long enough that when donning and doffing my gear the reg would be hitting the ground. So I clip it off, then when ready to enter the water wrap the hose around my neck and let it dangle there, until I am ready to use it.
 
Fair enough - not to hijack the thread further - but Lisa and i have just got the 7 foot hose and 22" inch hose - so I am in the process of learning how to get it rigged up. I have seen a few of the DIR sites already - thanks!
 
What about gloves with latex seals like these NDiver Latex Seal Neoprene Drygloves or similar:

nddrygloves.jpg


I don't see them mentioned much, but I'd assume they would work fine with smooth neoprene wrist seals, the type you need to fold over to seal, except you wouldn't with these gloves, you could just let the glove's latex form the seal with the suit's neoprene seal's smooth surface. I'm thinking these might work with my gf's o'neill drysuit.

And another option is to use gloves with Neoprene seals like the Deep See 4mm Dry Comfort gloves:

dry_comfort_glove.jpg


I have a pair and they seal fine with my latex wrist seals (suits latex seal goes over the gloves neoprene seal), though I've only tried them in a pool. Of course they are quite tricky to put on by yourself, but I'm working on a system.
 
*Floater*:
And another option is to use gloves with Neoprene seals like the Deep See 4mm Dry Comfort gloves:

dry_comfort_glove.jpg


I have a pair and they seal fine with my latex wrist seals (suits latex seal goes over the gloves neoprene seal), though I've only tried them in a pool. Of course they are quite tricky to put on by yourself, but I'm working on a system.

A guy that works at my LDS just put these gloves (I think, do they have an inner, smooth neoprene seal covered by the cuff?) on his dryglove rings. Mucho dexterity, very compact, and so far, leak free. If they hold up, I may get a pair to try out.
 
The way I think about it, there are two kinds of dry gloves: Ringed, and ringless. The ringless gloves are like the Nordic Blues, or the ones in the picture above. The Nordic Blues have a reputation for being rather difficult to get in and out of by yourself. The ones in the picture above require that you put your dry suit latex seal OVER the cuff of the glove, thereby violating the basic dry suit seal.

And that's one of the basic issues with the various ring systems: Some destroy or remove the original drysuit seal, so that if you rip a glove, you flood the suit. Since gloves are the thing most likely to interact with a hostile environment (rocks, metal, etc.) it did not seem reasonable to me to consider ANY dry glove system that did not leave an inner seal intact. That ruled out the DUI zipseal/glove system.

Of systems that leave the inner drysuit seal intact, the next question is whether it is possible for the glove to pop off during a dive. Gloves that seal simply by friction are not difficult to dislodge, and almost every dive buddy I have has had a glove come loose, often right at the beginning of the dive, meaning they are diving with a wet, cold hand throughout.

Looking for a ringed system that preserves the inner seal and gives you a positive lock AND can be donned and doffed without buddy assistance led me to the Viking bayonet system. Pros: Easy to install and remove. VERY easy to change gloves. Positive lock system. Preserves inner seal. Accepts Atlas gloves (cheap and readily available). Easy to get in and out of by yourself.

Cons: Expensive. Ring system itself is about $110 from my LDS. Rings are also very large, which is a positive for someone with big hands, but a negative from the standpoint of getting the rings caught in harness.

Anyway, that's my conceptual framework for thinking about dry gloves.
 
Thanks everyone, especially TS&M and Dsteding for making it clear. I think I'm sold on the Viking system. Now if I could only get a set prior to my local mud hole dive Sunday :)
 
I don't know much about dry gloves, but I recently read an article about divers in Antartica....They were saying that that after testing quite a few gloves, the best they found were gloves that are design for mixing cement. According to the website, they were the most reliable (strong) and comfortable.

Here the exact quote:

"The team used dry gloves that were inexpensive concrete mixing gloves; these were tough and very supple, making it easy to stretch them down and over the dry glove cuff rings mounted on the drysuits. We also used Viking five-finger rubber dry gloves, which are less supple and more expensive than the concrete mixing gloves. Take two pairs of dry gloves in case you get a puncture."

Source: The National Science Foundation Office of Polar Programs

Here is the link:

http://scilib.ucsd.edu/sio/nsf/index.html
 
loosebits:
Thanks everyone, especially TS&M and Dsteding for making it clear. I think I'm sold on the Viking system. Now if I could only get a set prior to my local mud hole dive Sunday :)

Glad to help-Lynne's Viking bayonet system is really nice, the only reason I didn't go that way with my new suit is because the OS Systems were in stock at my LDS.

If you can't find them locally, PM Bob3 here on the board, he's a Viking dealer, and can get the rings to you fairly quickly (probably not by Sunday . . . ).
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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