Learning to Dive Dry

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But does it make sense, if the water is not too cold, to not use the pee valve and the dry glove system and just focus on developing good buoyancy and then add these two elements later?

Also, these dry suit technical undergarments are extraordinarily expensive. And this is coming from a guy who has spent good money on quality stuff. I assume everyone carries spare undergarments with you in case of a leak, right? I'm trying to get a picture of what your garment selection looks like if it's still cold topside (spare undergarments, warm hat during SI, etc).
P-valve: I'd advise getting one. It won't affect your learning curve.
water temps in the 40's
Gloves: I'm in the "I hate to wear gloves" camp, but diving in the 40's would necessitate them for me.

Undergarments: I have two 300g undergarments, but that's mostly for travel. If I'm teaching, I'll bring both, but I've never changed out, so far. Mostly I have the backup so I can completely dry my undergarments and launder them during trips.

I also think that most "scuba" undergarments are a colossal waste of money. I have a couple of Gul fleece radiation undergarments that were about $60 each. I'll throw on a polyfill jacket over one of them and I can easily do a 2 hour dive in 61'ish degree water.
 
The P-valve has a short but steep learning curve. Here’s what I learned in short order:

For the condom catheters you can size yourself up for the correct size unit by using the measuring guides on the manufacturers’ web sites. Hint, make sure you print at 100% and turn off scaling. Also, if you remember Castaza’s law and go down one size and you shouldn’t have any problems. For the Light Monkey barbed fitting I’ll cut about half of the tube off the catheter to avoid kinks from folding over. Kinks are bad and will cause urine to very quickly work its way outside the catheter.

You can usually get free samples from the manufacturers to try a couple sizes. Try them out wearing them during the course of a day before you try them diving.

For undergarments I have a couple sets of base layers, particularly fond of my Coldproof ones. Those are easy enough to change out to keep from getting your actual undergarments funky over multiple days. While I dropped the coon on the DUI Duotherm 300 onesie, I have a fleece sweatsuit for the warmer temps. But always wearing my base layer.

Probably the most troublesome thing I had was the p-valve routing. The DUI onesie has double zipper so I can run the hose in the bottom, put a loop in it and have it lay against my my thigh and connect it up. For sweatpants and other non-purpose designed garments, a button hole sewn on the inside of the thigh can facilitate routing. For the base layer I keep myself outside the fly. Make sure there’s no twisting on the plumbing. Remember what I said about kinks. And you don’t want to trim it so short that the the plastic bit from the plumbing is making contact with your skin. That will become uncomfortable quick.

The catheter you can put on in the morning before leaving the house. They are designed to be worn for up to 24 hours. I’ll use an alcohol prep pad to ensure good adhesion. For removal, a warm shower after I get home or that evening is easiest. A warm washcloth will also suffice to soften the adhesive.

The P valve is an amazing convenience. I find that I drink a lot more water during the day. No running to the toilet after a dive or sitting there in your own urine. No relief zipper that you might forget to rezip or damage. Just make sure if you aren’t hooked up you close the valve.
 
Read here...

 
The P-valve has a short but steep learning curve. Here’s what I learned in short order:

For the condom catheters you can size yourself up for the correct size unit by using the measuring guides on the manufacturers’ web sites. Hint, make sure you print at 100% and turn off scaling. Also, if you remember Castaza’s law and go down one size and you shouldn’t have any problems. For the Light Monkey barbed fitting I’ll cut about half of the tube off the catheter to avoid kinks from folding over. Kinks are bad and will cause urine to very quickly work its way outside the catheter.

You can usually get free samples from the manufacturers to try a couple sizes. Try them out wearing them during the course of a day before you try them diving.

For undergarments I have a couple sets of base layers, particularly fond of my Coldproof ones. Those are easy enough to change out to keep from getting your actual undergarments funky over multiple days. While I dropped the coon on the DUI Duotherm 300 onesie, I have a fleece sweatsuit for the warmer temps. But always wearing my base layer.

Probably the most troublesome thing I had was the p-valve routing. The DUI onesie has double zipper so I can run the hose in the bottom, put a loop in it and have it lay against my my thigh and connect it up. For sweatpants and other non-purpose designed garments, a button hole sewn on the inside of the thigh can facilitate routing. For the base layer I keep myself outside the fly. Make sure there’s no twisting on the plumbing. Remember what I said about kinks. And you don’t want to trim it so short that the the plastic bit from the plumbing is making contact with your skin. That will become uncomfortable quick.

The catheter you can put on in the morning before leaving the house. They are designed to be worn for up to 24 hours. I’ll use an alcohol prep pad to ensure good adhesion. For removal, a warm shower after I get home or that evening is easiest. A warm washcloth will also suffice to soften the adhesive.

The P valve is an amazing convenience. I find that I drink a lot more water during the day. No running to the toilet after a dive or sitting there in your own urine. No relief zipper that you might forget to rezip or damage. Just make sure if you aren’t hooked up you close the valve.
Thanks for sharing that. Good post. However, “alcohol” prep pads sound like a Willy bad idea. Yikes!
 
Thanks for sharing that. Good post. However, “alcohol” prep pads sound like a Willy bad idea. Yikes!
Skin prep wipes are fantastic. Read the above thread, it has everything you'll need to know about peeing yourself. It takes a conscious effort to pee while not actually being in a normal position that your body knows is acceptable to pee lol.
 
Skin prep wipes have saved the day many times along with trimming the tube.
 
Thanks for sharing that. Good post. However, “alcohol” prep pads sound like a Willy bad idea. Yikes!
Actually, I’ve experienced no problems. Unless you have other issues going on down there, as long as the skin is healthy and intact (and barring any allergic reactions) and you stay below the tip and along the shaft portion there shouldn’t be an issue.

I know some instructional videos have mentioned being at least semi-erect for application, however I find it works just fine in a relaxed state. Place the tip as far forward into the tip of the catheter as you reasonably can (you’re not trying to pack a sleeping bag in a stuff sack here) with the opening in line with the tube. Pinch and pull the tip of the penis away from you then roll down the catheter. Squeeze down around the shaft to ensure adhesion. Easy peasy.

Again, order some samples and try wearing them throughout the day to ensure proper fit and that you don’t experience any irritation from the product. Most products are designed to be worn up to 24 hours.

Im not a doctor, don’t play one on TV, nor did I stay in a Holiday Inn Express. Just trying to be as tactful about the subject as possible.

As I mentioned before, you want to avoid kinking. The catheter’s adhesive is easily defeated with warm water. This includes warm urine. So any excessive back pressure from a kink can cause the urine to work its way quickly between the penis and catheter.

I don’t know if the quick connect fittings help avoid kinking by twisting as I haven’t used one. Perhaps someone else can chime in. Just take a minute to make sure the hose to the valve isn’t twisting before you hook up. If it does just make sure you twist it back so it’s in a neutral position.
 
Don't be aroused in any amount. Just don't do it. I know it's been too long since my last dive when I look down and think "when did I last trim"... skin prep wipes work great and ensure your little fella is clean for good adhesion. I just put one on after a 10 hour day at work and have zero concerns about it leaking because of prep work and wipes.

Cut the tip down a bit so the end of your QD barb is near where the tip widens for your tip. Put batb on before you put cath on.

Roll the cath a little tighter towards the end and shove the tip in. Ensure your hole lines up with the hole in the cath. Then roll the cath down like a condom giving it a good squeeze along the way.

I figure one size up is best for me since I'm between sizes. Any "extra" will adhere to itself where a smaller size may create a crease in your meat that might leak.
 
What size are you? I have a set of 4th element Artic tops and bottoms with 2 sets of heavy socks for sale.
Normally this would be 450 for the top and bottoms and 104 for the socks.
Also have an OS Systems base layer jump suit that retails for 125 or so.
Total of 679 retail
I'd take 450 for everything plus shipping. I'm no longer doing cold water and have no need of these.
But I won't give them away. Everything is size large.
Separately 75 for the OS and 375 for the 4th Element
And I'll throw in a duffle to transport them.
 

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https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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