Flooded my D7000 yesterday

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i'm sorry to hear that!
All others just gave the good tips and cutting the hydrophone cable was a wise decision,
as the real value for a usual underwater photographer and videgrapher it is still arguable for me.
I like the idea with the check-list inside!

Chris

Well, whales are a common background sound here, that's why I left the hydro phone intact to begin with....It would be an improvement for it to be a two-way plug in wire......if your very careful it is no risk to use it.
buttttttttttttttt.............................................
 
Your flooding sounds like my worst nightmare!!. Would make me depressed for days:depressed:
I hope you are able to recover it by the rinsing procedure described by Jax.
For the same reason I've insured my uw camera gear to accidents like this. The insurrence cost me about 500 DKK yearly (roughly $100)
I've already been covered once, when I accidently stumbled in low water while carrying my rig. One of my z240's was damaged and the insurence paid a brand new one - minus self risk of 1000 DKK
Maybe worth a consideration when you buy your new D7000

The biggest thing I hate is flea's, somethings are better profited by a manufacturer, not a financial parasite............
 
You might want to read:
http://www.ncups.org/articles/twenty-five-ways-to-flood-your-camera/

The above is actually two articles on the same page.

And a few things that weren't on the original articles:

About half way through the rinse tank soak, push all the push buttons several times, with the
button facing UP. Note the air bubble that come out. This is air and salt water that
you can't see, on the "wet" side of the O-ring.

After you take the camera out of the rinse tank soak, push all the push buttons several times,
with the button facing DOWN. Note the water that comes out.

Be VERY nice to your synch cords. They are the weakest link in the system.


Chuck
 
You might want to read:
Twenty-Five Ways to Flood Your Camera – NCUPS

The above is actually two articles on the same page.

And a few things that weren't on the original articles:

About half way through the rinse tank soak, push all the push buttons several times, with the
button facing UP. Note the air bubble that come out. This is air and salt water that
you can't see, on the "wet" side of the O-ring.

After you take the camera out of the rinse tank soak, push all the push buttons several times,
with the button facing DOWN. Note the water that comes out.

Be VERY nice to your synch cords. They are the weakest link in the system.


Chuck

Thanks Chuck like the checklist, very comprehensive!!!!
I just cut that damn hydrophone jack right off !!!!!!
I need to just slow down and be more thorough I know this, just got to drill it into myself totally.
Cheers,
Damo'
:coffee:
 
One more: make sure the port is on when the divemaster hands you the housing.

If someone needs this advice, then they flunked camera 101 and deserve to have their camera flooded.
 
If someone needs this advice, then they flunked camera 101 and deserve to have their camera flooded.

You would think so, but in some housings, the port/housing connection is really lame. I believe that until recently, Ikelite housings relied on pressure to hold the port in. Which is great unless your system is in a rinse tub and gets bumped, or even in your bathtub having a good soak when you get home. They have recently added four little spring-loaded fingers to help hold the thing in, but it seems like a pretty weak design.

Even higher-end systems have weaknesses, often in how an extension ring locks (or not) to the port. This summer, I passed my rig (Aquatica/D90) up to a friend in my boat, who carefully placed in it's cushy little "happy place". When I picked it up to put the cover over the dome a few minutes later, the port rotated freely and almost popped off. With the Aquatica system, the ports use a bayonet system and a locking pin on the housing. But unless you add a little accessory lock ring, the port doesn't lock to any extension ring you use. (I now own the aforementioned locking ring.)

Chuck, your list is brilliant. I took the liberty of (a) printing it out so I can carry it in my camera case and (b) linked to it on my Facebook page since half of my friends are photographers. I hope that you don't mind.

I have sometimes wondered why manufacturers don't use double o-ring systems... it seems that this could add a nice bit of redundancy, for minimal cost and engineering.

And to the OP: Sorry for your loss, and thanks for posting. Not everyone would have! I have an Aquatica/D7000 system arriving next week to replace my D90! I think I noticed a word of caution in the manual about this very issue (the rubber door on the camera being pinched) so it may be you aren't the first to do this. I am considering removing this door as I only ever use these cameras in the water...
 
Doc Harry: Don't laugh, I've seen it happen. It was an Aquatica housing, and the port got twisted off picking the camera up from the camera table. The DM didn't notice (port was facing away from him). The photographer was hot to go diving and just grabbed the housing. No, I was not the photographer, I shoot a Sea and Sea housing.

Stoo: Not all the Aquatica housings have the port lock on the housing side, and the big dome port has a lot of leverage.

Also that Aquatica device to lock the port to the extension tube only works for more recent Aquatica ports that have four (IIRC) recesses milled in the back side of the port, just outside the bayonet.


Chuck
 
Right you are about the domes, Chuck. Which is why I am selling mine with the old housing and replacing it with the new-fangled one.
 
Sorry to hear. I did that with my Olympus SLR. Rushed to close up getting ready for a night dive in Malapascua and flooded the camera. Replaced with the D7000 and paid for the 5 year accidental damage insurance. Hope this protects me, but caution will be my best insurance.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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