Flooded my D7000 yesterday

[ozzydamo]

Why would you waste two other dives (presumably you discovered on first dive) because your lens was on manual setting? After drying my camera off with a towel and making sure I'm not dripping water, I've popped the port off my rig plenty of times to switch lenses and never had an issue. I've been with Ryan Cannon from Reef Photo & video and seen him crack open his d7000 nauticam on a boat right after getting out of the water....he just laid the two halves open like a book so no water would drain in. My point is that there is no absolute rule about opening UW rigs on boats...I try to avoid it if I can but lets say i do a WA dive and discover the visibility is crap, I'm going macro the next dive and there is no magical way to get a different lens on without opening your rig. A drop of water inside your rig will not ruin anything and I would die for an in focus shot of a hammerhead (got the bull shark already) View attachment 131554

Alternatively, you can do a lot with a macro lens in manual. In fact for lots of small subjects in dim lighting, its necessary to try "trap" shooting in manual mode, by moving the camera back and forth til in focus and firing.




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I use to be so blase' too, but I am not the owner of a big retail UW photography store.

This was the third dive after flooding, call me paranoid!
The good bit is tomorrow, I am the owner of a very seaworthy plate alloy boat and I live in this tropical island paradise!!!!! Try that one Ryan Cannon!!! no biggy'
loved his live convo on wetpixel, it was cool to see the pommies carrying on like nikon fanboys....

Safe diving to you......................
Damo'

 

[billgraham]

Curt Bowen told me a long time ago to flip the camera over and stare at the dome port when I get down about 15 feet. I've had exactly two floods, both were my fault, and both involved the dome port o-ring not being seated correctly. Both times, I was in a rush when I put the camera together. The first time, I was cave diving and right next to the jonboat when I discovered the leak, and there was no damage. The second time, it was a new housing and camera, and I was in the ocean doing a deeper dive and had a lot of gear. When I flipped the camera over, water was POURING in the dome and I hit the surface, make my way back to the swim platform and handed it up, but it was all over. When I got to the bottom (my buddy was already on the wreck), he asked where the camera was, and I made up a signal for "the camera is F@#%&%!" that I'm sure you can work out.

So, in review, don't rush when setting up the camera, and no tequila!

 

[MMM]

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[Stoo]

I was searching for something else just now and stumbled across this old thread. I had my housing rebuilt at Aquatica last winter and while there, decided to install their vacuum system. I had a couple of false starts, first with a defective sensor and then much later, a defective pump (both happily replaced by Aquatica!), but I have since become a convert.

When I run workshops, we spend some time talking about flood/leak prevention. IMHO, the greatest single cause of leaks is simply "rushing". Preparing a camera to go diving is similar to preparing a rebreather I think. One needs to do it right, or there may well be consequences.

I have always "done" my camera stuff at the end of the day... open it up, download images, back up images, set camera back up with the morning lens (according to my best guess). Now, in addition, I pump up the housing, and leave it. If I wake up in the night, I can see the green light flashing and if it's still that way by morning, I KNOW the housing is secure. (And even if I've forgotten to latch the thing, the vacuum would keep the thing together.

I was fortunate to get a great deal on my vacuum system, but if you don't have one yet, get one.

Regarding insurance, in my experience, nobody in Canada will offer flood insurance on a dive camera. I have a second body, and the vacuum as my insurance.