G250? Worth servicing?

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The 5 & 10 are essentially the same. Some of us feel the MK-5 was the better reg vs. the MK-10. The bigger piston had some benefit to performance, but either is more than adequate, and likely a recreational diver wouldn't notice a difference.

Bryan has the parts kits for the 5 & 10. There is a need for some tools (or a work around) such as the piston bullet and an o-ring insertion tool. Service manuals are available from Bryan's site too, so you can see what is involved to do it.
 
The only difficult part of rebuilding the MK10 is installing the body O-ring. To save your sanity the installation tool is highly recommended.

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Thanks Bob, yes, a bad taste. I'll have a go with a MK5/10 or 15. I do currently have a MK10 and a MK15, initially had no intention of doing anything with them but will reconsider. I've just bought a 109 with an early MK5 attached, seems its fated. Of the three which would be the easiest to service, ease of parts and best breathing reg to start on first?

Buddhasummer, I'm going to insert a shameless plug here. One of my hobbies is buying and rebuilding older regulators, such as the type you've posted pictures. Unlike some of my esteemed DIY brethren I do not have the closet space nor inclination to keep them except for the pieces I add to my personal diving fleet. Consequently, I resell the items I do not intend to keep. Here comes the plug-Most if not all of the items you're considering are way overpriced. If you are looking into purchasing items like those, rebuilt or ready to DIY, with or without extra stages and gauges, contact me and we can work out a deal.

Edit: ScubaBoard member NotSure has a similar hobby and can be counted on.

Now, back to our regularly scheduled program.

While I don't agree that regulators are life support, I'm going to steal a line from Thalassamania as my vote for a DIY motto: "Yes, it is life support-that's why I do it myself."
 
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Couv is a stand up guy, and the regs he turns out are A1. Yes, your geographical area seems to be commanding a king's ransom. They can be had for much less here, and perhaps there too, but not where you are looking...

Talk with him if you are looking to buy...
 
MK5s and 10s are generally better for DIY than the MK15. The MK15 has a unique seat and requires a specialty set of snap ring pliers. The MK5/10 can be rebuilt with very few specialized tools but Herman's insertion tool does make it go way faster. I did them for years without one, though.

Probably the best place to start is with a MK10. That way you're assured of getting a steel turret retaining bolt, a heavy yoke, and spare parts are everywhere.
 
Thanks guys for the advice. Just reached out to Couv. I wish we still had the "Thanks" button, my "Like" is a thanks too...yeah prices here on any "vintage" are beyond silly, but people pay those prices so they keep getting charged.
 
2-MK5s , 2-MK8s, 2-MK20s, 2-G250s, 5-109s, 1-D400 and that's just the SP. If I didn't DIY it would most likely own only one set of regulators. I may not be a typical DIYer but I can't say it saves me money.

I would be surprised if you spent more than $50 per year servicing that fleet.
 
I wish SP would chime in about the 5th port business, I'm wondering if they've seen it and decided "I'm not touching that".

I'm wondering if the reason this problem is not reported more is that single tank divers don't often use the 5th port ? and twin set divers don't use 2 second stages on the same first stage. I'm still trying to get a satisfactory answer on this. Looks like I am going to have to send it back for the official word, was just trying to avoid two way shipping fees, as if it's 'normal" my returning the 1st stage is both a waste of time and money.

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The SP manual does specifically warn against using an R series second stage on the 5th port. But I'm not using an R series and the 5th port reg isn't the issue it's use is creating an issue with the other 2nd stage on the horizontal port.
 
I've been using the end port of SP piston 1st stages for years, and countless tech divers have been using the end port on MK25s for years. SP is giving you a BS answer. I have no idea what's going on with your MK25, but I suspect that if SP replaces your piston your problems will go away. You might also try setting the MK25 IP fairly low, say between 125-130. Maybe that will help.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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