Getting in without killing your camera

[Warren_L]

I do what peter suggests in that particular situation if there isn't anyone to hand the camera down. My camera rig weighs about 25 lbs and it would be difficult holding it above my head while doing a giant stride and not bonking myself in the head with it. Only on limited occasions have I entered the water with holding my camera and I would never do a giant stride with it.

 

[Searcaigh]

Some of our local photogs use bungee cord about 10' long connected to the boat. They lower the camera into the water before gearing up, then unclip the camera and go for their dive. When returning to the boat, clip the camera off, doff gear and climb back on board, then recover camera. It is common for us to have 3-4 tag lines overboard to keep gear close. I build my tag lines out of 1" webbing sewn with loops onto the ends, around stainless steel bolt snaps. There is bungee cord tied into the middle to give it some spring action.

When I lived in Jeddah back in the 90s we used 5M lines on which to hang our housings. Back in the pre-digital era this was very useful to have two housings, one with a 105 and the other with a 60 mm lens, maximum 38 shots out of a roll of film provided it was loaded tightly. My strobe connections were also interchangeable underwater, so I did not need additional lighting on the housing. Once I finished a roll of film on the deep part of the dive, it was back to the boat switch around and complete the dive in the shallows.

All this works well provided the boat is moored and if it has to be moved the person on board remembers to haul up all the lines first.

On two occasions housings did come off the lines on two consecutive weekends at the same dive site. Recovery process involved dropping a 5L tank on a line to establish a rough position of where the housing might be, the housing should theoretically have gone straight down, then dropping another 5M line with tank and regulator attached for a deco stop.

Both housings, an Aquatica with F4 on board, and my Tussey with F3, were safely recovered from roughly the same spot at 72M.

 

[drbill]

I prefer having the camera lowered to me by the crew and they've always offered to do that. So far no problems even in fairly decent current. However, I've also done giant strides holding my housing above me head so that my body breaks the water first and lessens the impact. Never had a problem doing that... but my housing has no "through-hull" fittings. Everything is magnetically controlled from the outside.

 

[Mooseman1007]

Cheers guys,
know it seemed like a silly question, but when you dont get to do many dives practice aint as easy to come by. Suppose I could start diving here in the Uk, but at the min Im definately a fair weather diver Roll on Egypt
Moose

 

[phillybob]

I have an Ike housing with dual strobes. My rig is always tethered to me. The two boats I generally dive on have swim decks that are about 6'' above the water. I 'small' stride with my rig held to my chest. Same with back rolls off of Zodiacs. Higher strides I get it handed down to me.

 

[Nemrod]

While I generally prefer having the camera handed to me and also handed back on re-entry to the boat ( a promise of a tip helps) frankly, I have never had a problem with just jumping in with a giant stride or even a back flip. I think much is made of this and mostly it is nothing to worry about.

I usually ask the deck hand to hold my camera until either my wife or I take it upon re-entry to the boat. I do not like my camera in the rinse bucket.

N

 

[Doctorfish]

I agree with Nemrod. I prefer having my camera handed to me on the way in, or use a bungee if that is not possible. I'd rather leave my camera on the boat than giant stride with it. On the way out, I try to have the deck hand take it from me but do not like having it left in the rinse tank. In my experience, there is real risk of damage in the rinse tank as additional cameras go in and out. I try to give my camera a quick dip myself or a quick fresh water rinse and leave off soaking until back at the shop. Another risk is if the camera is left in the tank on the boat between dives. Wave action and the boat moving from site to site can really bash your camera around. In my opinion, better to have it secured on deck or camera table.

Over the years, I've flooded several housings by being cavalier, and have learned to be much more cautious with my camera gear. You can get away with jumping in with your camera most of the time, but be prepared to have a costly flood eventually.

 

[danvolker]

Probably a stupid question, but one that has me contemplating. Ive got ~30 dives with camera under my belt (a Fuji F100 in OEM housing) and the majority of those dives were either shoredives or off a RIB, so getting the camera in was easy (either held close to chest and back roll, or handed in). I was in Egypt last year and did a few dives holding the camera close for the giant stride entry, not ideal but was ok with a small camera, anyways Ive just bought a strobe and as you can imagine thats increased the bulk of my camera, and am back off to Egypt in a week for a 10 days of day boat diving. Whats the easiest way of getting in with the camera when the boats busy or theres current, and its not easy to have the camera handed to you? Ideas guys ?
Moose

I shoot with a canon 5 d mark II in Aquatica housing.... From a platform, I set up like a giant stride entry, but after stepping forward over the water, I twist in mid air and do a back flop...the camera is shielded, and your body almost stops from the back flop. Also, this way I don't over flex my freedive fins

 

[Doctorfish]

I'd love to see that pirouette!

 

[Tool Belt]

S95 with strobe, hold high above head, giant stride, scissor kick, camera barely touches the water.