Halcyon Cinch

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Are you saying that the harness can uncinch randomly?

What I'm saying is that if the waist buckle isn't locked down and you stand up or have to wiggle into the harness the shoulder webbing can and will let out slack. I'm a little OCD about where the plate sits on my back and how tight the shoulder straps are so I just put tri glides on to lock it in place permanently. If it weren't for the weight pockets I'd lose the whole cinch system (but the pockets are secured to the plastic that is the cinch system).
 
I have one on my doubles plate, but in reality do not use it's "cinch" feature. I got the cinch so I'd have an easier time loosening the left shoulder strap, but in real life it turned out to not be easy at all - and yes, I read the manual and watched the videos, so I know the "tricks" :) I would probably have an easier time with it if I were to replace my webbing, but for the last 8-10 months I've been fine without moving my harness straps.

What I did do in the beginning, so as to have perfect shoulder strap length, was to put tri-glides on my shoulder straps on "my side" of the plate. That way I can pull on the waist straps and the tri-glides will settle up against the BP for perfect shoulder straps every time.

As you might guess, I've never had the straps slip using the cinch. Straps stay where they are - no accidental harness slippage :wink:

The longer bottom bolt is a bit of a pain. Depending on the tank bands, some doubles *just* fit, others need the extender. I put longer bottom bolts on my own doubles.

What remains of my Cinch is the strap for the can light. I like that it's rigid and hold the canister right where I want it. The strap with the left side D-ring made it a royal pain - for me at least - to clip and unclip SPG and deco bottles. Once I removed that "gadget" life UW got much easier.

If I can find a way to retain the can light strap without the Cinch plate - the Cinch is gone.
 
I dive single tank and I like the Cinch system. Loosen it up for easy getting in and out. Tighten it up when I get the tank on my back.
 
What remains of my Cinch is the strap for the can light. I like that it's rigid and hold the canister right where I want it. The strap with the left side D-ring made it a royal pain - for me at least - to clip and unclip SPG and deco bottles. Once I removed that "gadget" life UW got much easier.

If I can find a way to retain the can light strap without the Cinch plate - the Cinch is gone.

If you are not using the quick adjust feature of the cinch, could you just mount the canister on the waist strap like the usual DIR way?
 
I don't think the cinch would be necessary in the long run. Once you get your settings locked down for both wetsuit and drysuit, just mark the webbing and readjust as necessary.
Keep in mind this may mean readjusting the tri-glides, D-rings, and belt buckle. With the cinch it may just be D-rings and belt buckle. So you're really just knocking out 2 triglide adjustments at most.

Halcyon webbing is the perfect thickness IMO, to be easily adjustable without the cinch, but still rigid enough to not slip. Belt buckles and triglides can be easily adjusted. And I've tried both super thin webbing and super thick webbing. The former slips when you pick up your fully loaded gear by the straps, or when your donning and bouncing around a bit. The latter makes it super hard to make fine tune adjustments, especially the 3-slot belt buckle.
You first 20 dives with each exposure protection might be real annoying if you're really particular about your fine tuning adjustments. But once that's taken care of, no problem just readjusting your tri-glides.

I don't like the cinch or adjustment straps on my Hog harness because it doesn't allow the same exact fit every time; because it can move, either when you pick up your gear roughly by the straps, or when you're just adjusting. I'm real picky though.
 
If you are not using the quick adjust feature of the cinch, could you just mount the canister on the waist strap like the usual DIR way?

I certainly can - but I like the really rigid "strap" holding the canister firmly in place. Not sure it makes the tank band bolt length issue worth it though.
 
What I did do in the beginning, so as to have perfect shoulder strap length, was to put tri-glides on my shoulder straps on "my side" of the plate. That way I can pull on the waist straps and the tri-glides will settle up against the BP for perfect shoulder straps every time.

As you might guess, I've never had the straps slip using the cinch. Straps stay where they are - no accidental harness slippage :wink:

--Snip--

What remains of my Cinch is the strap for the can light. I like that it's rigid and hold the canister right where I want it. The strap with the left side D-ring made it a royal pain - for me at least - to clip and unclip SPG and deco bottles. Once I removed that "gadget" life UW got much easier.

I did pretty much all of what Henrik did here (in fact, I probably got the idea from him) and find that this works pretty well for me. What I did do different is removed the can light strap as well. Could I get by without the cinch plate? Probably, but until I need to replace the webbing I'll keep it on there.
 
With this harness system, can it be used on any standard BP or do you need to use it on a Halcyon BP designed to work with it? And if not can a standard BP be modified to make it compatible?
 
I have one. I used it in the beginning. Once I got my rig dialed-in, I just marked the webbing and switched to tri-glides.
 
Depends on the plate

P1010636.JPG
 

Back
Top Bottom