Paladin
Contributor
Of course.
Hog Regulator Combo or get something better ???
- Thread starter KJSmith84
- Start date
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Of course.
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The Chairman
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Overkill. They should never be tightened that severely to need a line wrench. I own several sets, both in wrench and socket configurations and have never felt the need to use them while working on a reg.
Only curmudgeons with old BCs that used CO2 cartridges would have one hanging around. I'm admitting nothing here, but the Scubatool device has both the LP and HP ends.
Wow, it varies widely depending on the vehicle in question. Unfortunately, most mechanics ignore the hydraulic system when they "hang" a set of pads. They don't turn the rotors and they are quite cavalier about the hardware. Run the hydraulics dry on an ABS system and you have just created a whole lot of work.
ams511
Contributor
Does the average customer know how to check a regulator after service? Usually the only check is does it breath which it probably did before it was dropped off.
Eric Sedletzky
Contributor
I was in the Automotve industry in collision repair for 20 years. I did everything from door dings to major hits including extensive front end component replacement, air bags, anti lock braking systems, wiring, R & I on all sorts of makes and models of door hardware - window regulators, troubleshooting, frame and unibody pulling and measuring. I do my own brakes, Trans service, timing belts, tire rotations (You'd be amazed at how many people don't know how to change a tire properly), I used to install shift kits in late 60's early 70's Mopar 727A trajnsmissions and rebuilt one once. I've always done all my own tune ups from my first VW bug to all my Chrysler muscle cars to my Toyota P/U
I've even set up a rear end (emergency bench rebuild) with just hand tools and the shims I had and managed to get the preload on the bearings good enough to get by for another 40K miles before it completely went kaput.
I think I can handle a regulator service and rebuild.
I've even set up a rear end (emergency bench rebuild) with just hand tools and the shims I had and managed to get the preload on the bearings good enough to get by for another 40K miles before it completely went kaput.
I think I can handle a regulator service and rebuild.
I can rebuild a reg, and have done a lot of them.
That said, I would not do the brakes on my truck or any other work a skilled mechanic should do. I do not have the training/skill/experience/etc nor do I have the facilities/tools/parts/equipment/desire to perform the work properly. I change the oil, air filters, cabin air filters, and keep the tires properly inflated. The rest? That's what my debit card is for.
That said, I would not do the brakes on my truck or any other work a skilled mechanic should do. I do not have the training/skill/experience/etc nor do I have the facilities/tools/parts/equipment/desire to perform the work properly. I change the oil, air filters, cabin air filters, and keep the tires properly inflated. The rest? That's what my debit card is for.
I repaced all my SP and Apex regs due to the annual serving costs (upwards of $400) and to eliminate the bitter hatred I had for needing to keep paperwork in order to avoid paying even higher costs and the perceived hostile treatment by shop owners towards me if my paperwork was not in order (and the wait times to get them back). Between my many cylinders and regs, I was paying very close to $1,200 a year for VIP, O2 cleaning, and other annual servicing. I keep receipts, that's what it was in 2010 and 2011. I brought all of that down to about $200/year (2012 - not including the upfront tools/training costs).
So yes, it was ORIGINALLY about cost. But then standardization. But then I realized it's more about the freedom you gain being able to service your own equipment any time, any place. Anyone who thinks this is purely about cost is deceiving themselves. You'll spend more upfront but gain certain responsibilities and obligations (and time commitments) in the process that may not outweight the ease of just paying for it somewhere in some cases.
For those that asked about the tools and parts and so on, here's the inventory that I created as I bought everything and the prices I paid. This is minimal (I don't have a magnehelic or flow meter) but this is sufficient for my needs. Hope it helps someone (zero's mean I didn't order the item):
| Item | Price | QTY | Total |
| Class - SDI Cylinder & Valve Technician | $250.00 | $0.00 | |
| Class - TDI O2 Service Technician | $250.00 | $0.00 | |
| Class - TDI HOS Regularor Service Technician | $250.00 | 1 | $250.00 |
| Reg Savvy | $32.00 | 1 | $32.00 |
| 1st Stg Handle | $29.00 | 1 | $29.00 |
| Dual Drive inline adj tool | $69.00 | 1 | $69.00 |
| ChristoLube | $32.00 | 1 | $32.00 |
| O-ring pick set, soft brass | $12.50 | 1 | $12.50 |
| O-ring pick set, 5 pieces | $8.75 | 1 | $8.75 |
| 3/8" Drive Dial Torque Wrench | $149.70 | 1 | $149.70 |
| Hook pin spanner (1.5" / 1/8" pin) | $9.76 | 1 | $9.76 |
| Hook spanner #6 | $14.00 | 2 | $28.00 |
| Hook sppner pin 1/8" for #6 | $2.00 | 2 | $4.00 |
| Thin Jaw Adjustable Wrench | $40.00 | 1 | $40.00 |
| Lighted Magnafier | $10.00 | 1 | $10.00 |
| Imperial long hex bit sockets | $23.00 | 1 | $23.00 |
| Metric long hex bit sockets | $15.00 | 1 | $15.00 |
| Metric hex key set (incl. 7mm key) | $18.00 | 1 | $18.00 |
| Imperial Hex key set | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Ultrasonic cleaner | $84.95 | 1 | $84.95 |
| 2nd Stage cap remove | $10.00 | 1 | $10.00 |
| Guage for dual drive adjusting tool | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 |
| DIN Retainer Tool | $29.00 | 1 | $29.00 |
| HP Restrictor Bullet O'Ring Kit | $8.50 | 1 | $8.50 |
| Orifice/Valve T-Handle | $23.00 | 1 | $23.00 |
| Schrader Valve Tool (1.65" BIT) | $6.00 | 1 | $6.00 |
| HOG D1 1st Stage Service Kit | $20.00 | 2 | $40.00 |
| HOG D1 2nd Stage Service Kit | $15.00 | 2 | $30.00 |
| HOG D2 2st Stage Service Kit | $20.00 | $0.00 | |
| HOG D1 Soft Face Cover | $8.00 | $0.00 | |
| Materials | $737.16 | ||
| W/Class | $737.16 | ||
| Class | $250.00 | 1 | $250.00 |
| SDI - Visual Inspection Procedures book | $23.80 | $0.00 | |
| OPV Removal Tools | $13.00 | 1 | $13.00 |
| Pit Guage | $23.31 | 1 | $23.31 |
| Tank plugs | $4.00 | 1 | $4.00 |
| Tank neck brush | $16.25 | 1 | $16.25 |
| Thermo Valve Service Kit | $16.00 | $0.00 | |
| Viton O-Rings (Individual Asst) | $1.00 | $0.00 | |
| All-in-One Thermo Valve Repair Tool | $50.00 | 1 | $50.00 |
| Inflator Service Tool (DSS) | $8.50 | 1 | $8.50 |
| Viton O-Rings (Pack of 50) | $25.00 | $0.00 | |
| Tumbler | $200.00 | $0.00 | |
| Dental 3x Magnafier | $16.00 | 1 | $16.00 |
| Materials | $131.06 | ||
| w/Class | $381.06 | ||
| Total | $1,118.22 |
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Here in Hawaii, when you live a quarter of the way up a Volcano, brake pads (at least up front) last about as long as air filters and such, they go fast. Doing the rotors (every other pad change) is, at least on most of my vehicles, just one extra step. Having taught both, I am quite comfortable stating that it is far easier to teach a person to service a regulator than it is to teach a person to change the brake pads.
RichKirby
Contributor
I can fix it. My dad's got an awesome set of tools.
Yes, all of our's do. We go over their repaired gear and how to test their gear.
Ideally, we have them test dive their "just repaired gear" in the pool.
We have them sign a statement that they have tested their gear.
This procedure has virtually eliminated problems after the repair.
The last thing we want to hear is " I just got my gear serviced and now it doesn't work. "
I did have a couple come back from Cozumel complaining about our service. I asked them when they had their problem. They said after the 10th dive.
I looked in their 1st stage. It was very "dirty " with what looked like charcoal. Do you think they may have got some " Bad " fills?
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