How many of you have had a dive computer fail?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

In 25 years of diving computers (~1,200 dives), I've had 2 in-water failures. My Edge never failed me ('88 ~mid-90s) other than occasional lost data on changing batteries. My Orca Pilots never failed me (mid-90s - present) other than being a pain to change functions when even the slightest bit moist. First failure was with an Oceanic gage in '92. Bought it to replace my wife's Skinnydipper and tried it out on a series of dives off San Clemente Is. Came up from the third dive in the series with complete gibberish on the screen. Returned it and went with the Orca Pilots. Second failure was with a Sherwood Wisdom 2 computer. Half hour into a dive at Blue Heron Bridge, it stopped displaying anything relevant - random numbers. After the dive, I removed the battery, reinstalled, and was set to go the following day. No problems since. Still no clue what caused either failure, but always dive with a Pilot as backup - although that doesn't help with the air integrated pressure gage. On serious dives (offshore NC) I dive with a backup analog pressure gage as well.
 
I have a predator and have no plans to replace it until it dies, which with Liquivision support [-]may be a very, very long time[/-] would probably be about two years and one day, exactly.

Fixed! :wink:
 

Crap. I did say "Liquivision" too. Not enough coffee today or something. Sheesh. Predator by SHEARWATER. Excellent service and support. (I also fixed my original post now).

Obviously some kind of nasty freudian slip happening there.

(but I did love your fix)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jax
My first computer seemed to have some issues straight out of the box, although I can't say it ever really "failed" because it never stopped doing what it was supposed to do in the water. I exchanged it for a DG03 with an AI transmitter, and am thrilled with the Hollis DC.

My buddy also bought a DG03 (also with AI) and loves it. Neither of us have had any issues, and we've used the things in a pretty wide variety of conditions with different mixes.

Our experiences with the DG03 have us looking at the TX1 now that we're getting into trimix.
 
I have three computers -

Suunto D9tx - about 150 dives on it, had a battery failure during a dive after a year and about 50 dives, no warning and tested fine on surface, the transmitter had also failed and now will not connect. Not a battery issue as I have changed both again and tried to 'repair' the transmitter but no go.

Atomic Cobalt - again around 150-200 dives. Zero problems except a cracked case (the clip loop at the top of the case) - my fault really though it was a weak point, I used this clip to attach to a snap bolt and hold it to my BC and this caused it to crack. I ook it in to the supplier, they fixed it free of charge on the spot by fitting a new front, and gave me a spare in case I did it again. - Love it!

Shearwater Petrel - only half a dozen dives so far, no problems.

If I am diving side mount I use the Petrel as my main computer, the D9tx in gauge mode as a backup and wear a watch (Rolex Sea-dweller) but only have my reels with marked line as additional depth markers.

If I am diving back mount I have the Cobalt on the HP hose, and have been using the D9tx in gauge mode, but will now use the Petrel as the main computer and the Cobalt as a backup but in dive mode. If I am diving back mount it is usually warm water/wetsuit so I will also have my watch as backup and won't take the D9tx in future.

P
 
I had a VR3 which failed in a pool session. Pressure sensor died and would not turn on.
 
Our experiences with the DG03 have us looking at the TX1 now that we're getting into trimix.

Why? :shakehead: I'm sure the DG03 is a perfectly serviceable dive tool, but if you're going to drop that kind of coin for those kinds of dives, you owe it yourself to get a better computer with better support for basically the same price as a TX1.

If I run into you while diving here on Oahu, I'll let you try one of my Petrels for a dive. Sells itself, it does (though I don't sell them).
 
I had a Suunto D9 (gauge mode as backup) battery die during a cave dive shortly after entering. The battery was already overdue for replacement. My brothers UWATEC BT battery died late into a deco dive earlier this year. This unit was also due for battery replacement and was already 5 year old with at least 200hr.

These are the only 2 "failures" I know off during my entire diving career.

Dive computers IMO has evolved and are very reliable. That said I will not do any technical dive without redundancy like slate, BT or even second computer.
 
My old Suunto Gecko failed after about 5 and a half years and 1600 dives. Fair enough really - got my moneys worth for sure! It turned itself off and back on again, then proceeded to flash through every digital icon in random order. Unfortunately I was inside a wreck at 27m teaching a specialty course at the time with students laying out lines. Handily I had a back up, as it booted me off EANx and back on to air, so I was 'in deco' straight away. Fun times!
 
My Mares Puck started acting up earlier this year after two years of use (193 dives). It's never been deeper than 20M. It worked but would respond erratically to button presses and sometimes seemed to press the button by itself. It said that the battery was OK. Decided to buy a new one rather than repair as I figured the cost of shipping from New Zealand and the repair would cost nearly as much as a new one. When the new one arrived I opened the old one completely (not recommended for anyone not used to miniature electronics). A tiny bit of water (not even a drop) had seeped in and corroded the contact at the push button. Cleaned it up, re-greased all of the o'rings, replaced the battery and it's been working fine since.
 
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

Back
Top Bottom