Is there a new tank close to the old steel 72 in buoyancy shifts and weight?

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Is that Faber 72 @ 3000 or at 3300? I have one from back in the mid 90's when they were branded for ScubaPro. We loved those tanks..... I could dive a 1/4" farmer john and a jacket (so 1/2" on my core) with no weight belt....

That was the old ScubaPro 65.5 @3000#, 72@3300# with the +. I loved that little tank, then my buddy moved and took them with him. Now I have to settle for the old steel 72's I have lying about.


Bob
 
looks like i need to get that + rating....... It is "stickered" as 3000 as well as stamped as such. Never had a + from day 1....
 
The lined tanks a great as long as the lining is PERFECT. Once you get one problem spot, no matter how small you will need to have it tumbled.

I am going to echo Rich's comment. I picked up a pair of 72s that while lined were perfect. Then my hydro shop %$#@! them up by leaving water in them. They got tumbled but still did not get cleaned up well enough. I have to fail the VIP on one - lest I tumble it for a very long time.

The other reason to skip a lined cylinder is that they can not be used for NITROX - even after being tumbled the epoxy is never truly 100% and it is not O2 compatible.
 
Give them to me, the liner does come out, fairly easily actually.
 
we aren't talking about those modern tanks....
 
Just out of curiosity how do you plan to attach the tank to your body?
I know a guy who makes these really cool modern minimalist back plates that place the tank ridiculously close to your back giving you the the most streamlined profile available to date.
Just sayin.
 
Just out of curiosity how do you plan to attach the tank to your body?
I know a guy who makes these really cool modern minimalist back plates that place the tank ridiculously close to your back giving you the the most streamlined profile available to date.

like the VDH plate? (just "funnin'" with 'ya.... wish you could do one for my 6'-7" frame....)
 
The tank that most closely dives the same and feels much the same as the old steel 72 and matches closely it's working capacity is the Catalina 63. The 66cf that a steel 72 has at working pressure is just not significantly different to affect my practical bottom times. I suspect your SAC is on par with a cadaver, as is mine, so I doubt the 63cf is a limiting factor before you are ready to come up. The second best choice is the standard aluminum 80, like it or not. We are talking warm water minimalistic diving here, the positive characteristics of the Al63, Al80 and Steel 72 are an advantage. Negative steel tanks are cumbersome and and often require a partially inflated wing, at least for me. I would rather have a couple of extra pounds of lead, being as I am only carrying 4 to 6 anyways, than swim around with a fat wing from a severely negative HP steel tanks.

I have a fleet of 72s. In Florida, it is hit and miss getting them filled. I have gone store to store, some will, most do not. The aluminum 63 is easy to handle, noticeably lighter on the surface for beach diving and feels good underwater. And all dive stores will fill them.

N
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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