Morrison Re-lining

[Groundhog246]

would scrap steel I-beams about 3' in length work?

Sounds heavy. How large an I-beam are we talking? To anchor the line and keep it low (per Twister) a short length of steel tubing welded where the flange meets the web in line with the length should work. Just need to grind the inner ends to remove any sharp edges.

Re: anchor's, It'd be great if Barrie would allow posting of sign(s) warning of rhe risk of snagging on the line or wreck or even better, post the signs. Most the of boats fishing do not anchor and it would be best if none did.

 

[amobeus]

Sounds heavy. How large an I-beam are we talking? To anchor the line and keep it low (per Twister) a short length of steel tubing welded where the flange meets the web in line with the length should work. Just need to grind the inner ends to remove any sharp edges.

Re: anchor's, It'd be great if Barrie would allow posting of sign(s) warning of rhe risk of snagging on the line or wreck or even better, post the signs. Most the of boats fishing do not anchor and it would be best if none did.

The beams would have to weigh in at 200 pounds or more to make them suitable. Some boaters do and will try to pull up and or drive there anchors free if caught on the guide line. There isn't that much boating activety around the Morrison other than a few bass boats but from time to time a few cabin crewsers do anchor off and may destroy the the line and drag the base if the base is to light.


Amobeus

 

[uwhooligan]

I-beams and wideflange beams are typically labelled with their crosssection and weight per foot. A typical 8 inch beam weighs 35 pounds per foot. It would be labelled 8@35 so to get 200 lbs , a 6 foot beam would be required. 20 or so of those would be damn heavy to transport and sink.
Since the line is only held with big cinder blocks now and they survived the winter (the line was essentially intact on saturday when I was there) why would you need something so much heavier, especially since steel is far denser than concrete ? A 3 foot I-beam would still be 100 #'s and the flanges might dig into the silt with time, making them harder to move I would of thought.
We could lay 1" steel round bar welded together, but if a boat with decent power hooks its anchor and yanks it it would still get bent and dragged. There comes a point where its not realistically feasible to overengineer what is really just a guideline.
If the line was tied at each end of its mounting and not ran thru as a single piece then if it did get destroyed, the task of repair would be simpler and less likely than 50 or more foot of line be drifting aimlessly.

The beams would have to weigh in at 200 pounds or more to make them suitable. Some boaters do and will try to pull up and or drive there anchors free if caught on the guide line. There isn't that much boating activety around the Morrison other than a few bass boats but from time to time a few cabin crewsers do anchor off and may destroy the the line and drag the base if the base is to light.


Amobeus

 

[amobeus]

I-beams and wideflange beams are typically labelled with their crosssection and weight per foot. A typical 8 inch beam weighs 35 pounds per foot. It would be labelled 8@35 so to get 200 lbs , a 6 foot beam would be required. 20 or so of those would be damn heavy to transport and sink.
Since the line is only held with big cinder blocks now and they survived the winter (the line was essentially intact on saturday when I was there) why would you need something so much heavier, especially since steel is far denser than concrete ? A 3 foot I-beam would still be 100 #'s and the flanges might dig into the silt with time, making them harder to move I would of thought.
We could lay 1" steel round bar welded together, but if a boat with decent power hooks its anchor and yanks it it would still get bent and dragged. There comes a point where its not realistically feasible to overengineer what is really just a guideline.
If the line was tied at each end of its mounting and not ran thru as a single piece then if it did get destroyed, the task of repair would be simpler and less likely than 50 or more foot of line be drifting aimlessly.

Sound good to me gentlemen. A little less conversation and more action is needed now, as we have talked this topic to death. I have the welding shop and boats all I need to hear now is committment.

Cheers

Amobeus

 

[wetbehindtheear]

Sounds heavy. How large an I-beam are we talking? To anchor the line and keep it low (per Twister) a short length of steel tubing welded where the flange meets the web in line with the length should work. Just need to grind the inner ends to remove any sharp edges.

The beam i'm thinking about would be anywhere from 100 to 150 lbs/ft. It's wide flange I-beam - about 1.5 to 2.5 feet wide. Should be able to get scrap steel for about 8 cents/lb these days, maybe a little less in May.

 

[boney]

When you get this one done, maybe we can get Boney to organize something for the Juno site in Bowmanville.

I know some people on this board have alread dove the Juno... it is a shorter distance and has a hard sand bottom.
But lets work on the Mo for now... it gets much more traffic than the Juno and would be more appreciated there... Again if you need extra bodies to help out just PM me and I will try to be there...

What about getting toilets and sinking them... kinda fitting... then you could tie the line on each handle and if you pull on it all the toilets flush simultaneously....

 

[boney]

Almost forgot... thinking about getting wet this weekend... may be a good time to check out the Mo... anyone else been there recently? Wat are the temps like???

 

[mcrae]

I just noticed this thread and would like to mention what we do in Sarnia to run lines to the Monarch and the Barge.
We use surplus steel cable from industrial cranes, we get it for free.
It is typically about 1/2" and lasts about 2-3 years. With the heavy current and boat trafic we need something strong.

The disadvantage is that is rusts and gets hard on gloves.

Also a 5 gallon pail of cement works pretty well, we set one in place as a temporary maker for the Wexford. I have also used car engine blocks, 6 cylinders are fairly heavy.

I will be happy to come up for a dive to see how your project turns out.
Good Luck
Gary

 

[uwhooligan]

After doing some morning gardining I have an new idea. A 5/8" (3/4 whatever) 12" x 12" base plate with a flange welded perpendicular with addable plates with a slotted hole in them to secure them. Basically a giant metal brick, I can do that and procure the scraps to do so, so cost would be neglible . The beauty is it could have as many weights added as desired and the plates them selves dont need to weigh that much, nor does the specific thickness of each plate as you simply add more. makes handling much simpler. I got this idea from elevator counterweights. A bolt and small hole in the top of the flange would secure the added weights.
This from my point of view is easier to obtain and transport than I-beams;-) . I can easily snaggle a few plates per night
Assuming we can put a crew together I would be willing to start up on procuring the stock immediately.

Sound good to me gentlemen. A little less conversation and more action is needed now, as we have talked this topic to death. I have the welding shop and boats all I need to hear now is committment.

Cheers

Amobeus

 

[uwhooligan]

That sounds like stringer beam.

The beam i'm thinking about would be anywhere from 100 to 150 lbs/ft. It's wide flange I-beam - about 1.5 to 2.5 feet wide. Should be able to get scrap steel for about 8 cents/lb these days, maybe a little less in May.