Need help adjusting weight from fresh to salt water

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So, if I weigh about 300lbs with all my gear on, and only need 8lbs in fresh water with an AL80, I would need around 7 - 8lbs of additional weight (double what I had before) just going from fresh water to salt water?
@sdorn: That's a pretty good estimate.

The problem that people run into is that this "rule of thumb" only works if your gear configuration is identical...with the only variable being fresh vs. salt water.
For instance, let's say that you established your weighting requirements in a pool (fresh water) wearing a 3mm wetsuit. You would like to figure out how much extra lead to wear when you travel to Catalina (SoCal) to do some ocean diving. Adding 7-8 lbs. of additional weight won't get you anywhere close to being properly weighted because...you'll need to wear at least a 7mm wetsuit, which is much more positively buoyant than a 3mm wetsuit.

Be mindful of exposure protection and tank changes -- either can significantly affect how much lead you need to wear. Always remember that there is no substitute for doing a proper weight check. Use whatever "guesstimation" methods you want initially, but do a good weight check to sort things out for sure. Hope this helps...
 
Take some time to figure it out either when you first get there, off the shore, or when you are on the boat, before you try to descend. Whatever you end up with, write it down!!!

For me, I use less weight in fresh than I do in salt. The reason? Totally different gear. I dive fresh in MI with full 7mm, 80 steel tank, and 12lbs. In salt, I'm in FL, wearing a skin and micro, AL80, and 10lbs...

Keep in mind that if you are used to a calm lake, and are now in the ocean, the wave and current can keep you up on the surface as well. Unless you are using the exact same gear, same conditions, just a pool full of fresh or salt water, can you really just do an equation to find out exactly how much you need. Almost every boat op I've been on has had extra weights, so even if you don't bring enough, you can still dive.
 
@sdorn: That's a pretty good estimate.

The problem that people run into is that this "rule of thumb" only works if your gear configuration is identical...with the only variable being fresh vs. salt water.
For instance, let's say that you established your weighting requirements in a pool (fresh water) wearing a 3mm wetsuit. You would like to figure out how much extra lead to wear when you travel to Catalina (SoCal) to do some ocean diving. Adding 7-8 lbs. of additional weight won't get you anywhere close to being properly weighted because...you'll need to wear at least a 7mm wetsuit, which is much more positively buoyant than a 3mm wetsuit.

Be mindful of exposure protection and tank changes -- either can significantly affect how much lead you need to wear. Always remember that there is no substitute for doing a proper weight check. Use whatever "guesstimation" methods you want initially, but do a good weight check to sort things out for sure. Hope this helps...

I'll be using the exact same gear so the only difference should be the salt water vs fresh water. I'll start out with about 7lbs extra and see where I end up. It just seems like it will be hard to do a weight check in the water while everyone else is jumping in and starting their dives. I haven't done a boat dive before, will they give everyone time to get their weight sorted out before starting the timer for when you have to be back on the boat?
 
I'll be using the exact same gear so the only difference should be the salt water vs fresh water. I'll start out with about 7lbs extra and see where I end up. It just seems like it will be hard to do a weight check in the water while everyone else is jumping in and starting their dives. I haven't done a boat dive before, will they give everyone time to get their weight sorted out before starting the timer for when you have to be back on the boat?
There is great variety in how dive boats manage getting divers in and out of the water. A lot of this is dependent on the size of the boat. I've been on small boats in the Caribbean where people do back rolls from a seated position. I've also been on large boats here in SoCal where people take a giant stride off of the side of the boat 10-15 ft above the surface of the water. With regard to timing logistics, many of our local charters set "gate times" that specify when divers are permitted to enter the water. In setting the gate time, the crew takes into consideration when the divers will actually be exiting the water. In most cases, divers will conduct dives that last 30 min to 1 hour. It's courteous to let the crew know how long you intend to stay down. This usually isn't a big deal for a newbie diver, but it can be a big issue for a rebreather diver who can stay down a loooooong time on his breathing apparatus.

If you want to do a weight check before doing your first dive, I would discuss this ahead of time with the DM/captain/whoever is charge of helping divers enter the water. You don't want to "tie up" the entry point futzing around with lead while others are trying to splash in. That would be inconsiderate. Discussing it ahead of time allows the crew to figure out how/when/where to help you. It might be best for you to get in last, swim around to the back of the boat, and have a crew member hand small increments of weight from the swimstep. You should discuss your plan well before you arrive at the dive site. Once there, the crew will probably be busy setting the anchor or tying up to a mooring buoy and counting heads going in/out of water.

If you are doing a weight check at the beginning of your dive with a full tank, please consider that you will be using up gas in your tank during the course of your dive and change the amount of lead to compensate for this. For instance, if you are properly weighted at the surface with a full AL80 at the beginning of your dive, then add another 6 lbs. to offset the weight of your gas. For a HP100 steel tank, the weight of the gas is about 7.5 lbs. Recall that you want to have enough ballast to hold a safety stop with a near empty tank at the end of your dive.

Many divers who have a ballpark idea of their weighting requirements will simply plan to be a little overweighted on that first dive. At the end of the dive, they'll surface safely with plenty of air. Near the boat, they'll purge their tank down to about 500 psi and test their buoyancy. Holding a normal breath with reg in mouth, the water should be at eye level. To account for the remaining gas in their tank, they'll add 1 more pound. That's what I do.

Good luck and have fun...
 
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Newbies, and many divers in general worry WAY too much about getting their weight EXACT! IMO, don't bother, that will happen over time.

Do NOT error on the side of to little. If you are thinking along the lines of should I carry 12lbs, or 14lbs, go with fourteen. 2lbs over is NOT going cause issues. 2lbs UNDER can especially if you are already having difficulty dumping all the air out of a BC/drysuit, or sucking the tank down to zero.

If you have a working weight total in fresh water, add 6lbs in salt, and call it good.
 
It just seems like it will be hard to do a weight check in the water while everyone else is jumping in and starting their dives. I haven't done a boat dive before, will they give everyone time to get their weight sorted out before starting the timer for when you have to be back on the boat?

It will be IMPOSSIBLE to do a weight check at the beginning of the dive as your tank is full! :D

You do the weight check at the end of the dive, and I would suggest doing so. It takes less than 5 minutes, just make sure your buddy is aware you want to do this as you will need to hand off weight to them.

Most boats don't have a *timer* so to speak, but the captain may give you a hard time to be back on board. It kinda depends on the OP, and if they move the boat after each dive.

I am not sure what *sorted out* implies, but if you are asking about a pre~dive weight check, well see line one! :D

Most divers get on the boat, tell the Captain/Mate/DM what they need for weight, and that is as sorted out as it gets.

Ask for a few ## more than you need as you can always leave some behind.
 
nothing i have heard worksfor me in fresh water al needs 10# steel needs 4 going to salt al 23 steel 18-20# water gulf 35ppt salinity the numbers may sound good if you are in 25ppt water if you are muscle bound you may need a lot less.

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https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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