New diver, order of purchasing equipment

[danvolker]

I was recently a new diver and rushed out and bought everything fairly recently before doing research (it's hard for me to try different types of gear so research is all i have). Based on my experience i would say get a Computer first, one that is nitrox compatible. The option is to rent from shop or use tables. Tables decrease your bottom time and renting doesn't give you dive history and could be inaccurate if the shop happens to give you a computer that was dived recently.

Hi Phoenix,
I have to respond to this, because it is such a pervasive belief with new divers, and I expect this has it's origins in the profit potential with dive shops...

It may well be that you live in a place, where a new diver can do such a multi level profile, that the tables will not leave them enough time to maximize enjoyment on a standard 2 tank boat trip. However, I have a hard time envisioning what the diving sites would be like, that would change the basic nature of novice diver potential so much...
In a place Like Palm Beach, we have vast dive site areas that are around 55 to 65 feet deep....often rising to 40 feet deep on top of a reef crown...and this is within swimming distance of the outside reef face, which will drop to around 95 feet deep. In other words, for a novice diver, this is the holy grail of multi-level profile diving,....a place where a dive computer has been promoted as being a big deal for them.

The problem, is that until a novice diver has had a few hundred dives, there is very little chance they can make more than 60 minutes on a tank of 34 % Nitrox, on a 60 foot reef. Many boats will give you this hour for the dive....your computer may give you alot more...especially if you spend some time up on the reef crown at 40 feet---BUT, the boat will only allow you 60 minutes. You are then going to have an hour surface interval, and then another Nitrox dive.....to 60 feet or less.

In Boynton Beach ( Palm Beach) where the reefs are this 55 up to 40 and swimming distance to 95( for start of dive if you want)....most novice divers are down to 1000 psi around 30 minutes into the dive...some sooner. This is the norm for most, until hundreds of dives are under their belt....Many never get any better with their breathing rate.
What they need, for the way boat dives work, is the Nitrox certification--which is so simple you would think it would be included in all entry level OW courses....but is a separate cert....cheap....and it should be mandatory to optimally enjoy boat diving....to not waste the standard 2 tank boat trip. This is a MUCH bigger deal than buying a computer, and trying to be an "air" diver.

Here is what the reefs look like, on a typical dive in Boynton .. it shows the multi-level potential of the reef and your dives well..
[video=youtube;s1kc13CBOGA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1kc13CBOGA&[/video]

My point is, you really would be wasting money on a dive computer until fairly far in to your diving experience....And..those of us that have been diving for many decades, really dont need them for most recreational dives with structured charter boat diving. It takes "special circumstances" to really need the expense.

 

[phoenix31tt]

Yea i'm really just speaking from my experience only.

Where I live we are way behind on Nitrox offerings. Only a couple shops offer nitrox and it's not even advertised as being available, and sometimes it just isn't unless planned way before hand. The only reason I actually did the nitrox course is because I was going to Bonaire and it was a no-brainer to dive nitrox there so did the course there.

Secondly when i bought my computer i still used my tables just to see the practical difference in bottom times/allowed surface intervals etc if i used my max depth. Usually the tables would send me into deco on every dive/surface interval combination whereas with the computer i would be very safe (maybe I had an ok SAC rate to begin with as I was never a nervous diver and our open water instructor preached buoyancy and trim).

The profiles you mentioned for your typical boat dive really isn't what we use diving locally and not what i experienced recently in Grand Cayman either. They usually do the first dive to 100ft max (but they're all walls so it's very easy to do multilevel as the dive progresses), then 45mins surface then a shallower dive to say 50-60ft max or as deep as your computer would safely allow.

So yea i could see a computer being not such a big deal as long as your reefs etc are at a level where they are one constant depth or your air is finishing way before your tabled no-deco times

 

[ronscuba]

Regulator, octopus and SPG.

I own all my equipment, but I have done dives renting everything and by the far the rental equipment that performed the worst were the regulator sets. Short hoses that wouldn't allow me to turn my head, hard breathing stages, disgusting worn dirty mouthpieces.

 

[hoboforlife]

Thanks everyone! I've been reading some very good responses. Based on most of the responses, its good to know my dive shop is fairly honest. When I was trying masks for the first time, the only one that fit was the oceanic pioneer because I have a fairly big face. My dive shop recommended that I buy it even though it cost 3x more than the other $40 masks and told me I wouldn't regret it because it fits perfectly. Initially, I thought it was sales scam, but they were absolutely right.

I agree with danvolker. I don't think my breathing is good enough to maximize my time underwater yet. To be honest, I'm guilty of the 1000psi at 30 min....:blush:. Although I thought it would be great to lazy and have a computer to easily track my dives. I've decided to buy the gear in this order, and I would greatly appreciate everyone's recommendation:

1. BC - I'm looking for a solid BC that will last a long time and able to grow with me as a diver. I was looking at the Zeagle Wicked Ranger - $470 used.

2. Regulator/Alt/SPG - Oceanic Alpha 9 SP-6 - $299, so far this regulator has given me the best ability to do long slow breaths. I've demoed a scubapro, but I just felt like I was taking bigger breaths of air/
Oceanic Alpha 8 Octo - $129, everyone I've talked to recommended this/
SPG - I never paid attention to the brand or model of this, any recommendations?

3. Dive Computer - Geo 2.0 - Just heard great reviews of this DC. Used - $275

If you have any recommendations on must have accessories please let me know.

 

[buddhasummer]

Haven't read the whole thread but I'll throw it out there, sounds like your in it for the long haul, have you considered or are you interested in a BP/W?

Zeagle make some very nice BCs.

Oceanic hmmm, if you travel dive I'd re consider as finding service centers off shore in far flung locations that can service Oceanic are probably far and few between. "If" travel diving is in your future I'd consider either ScubaPro or Aqualung as they both have extensive service centers worldwide. Just a thought worth considering.

Re mask, your shop was right, a good fitting mask is worth whatever it costs. The shop I've linked to sell neoprene mask straps which I recommend for both comfort and security.

https://www.divegearexpress.com/slap-strap-plain-all-black


If if you have a wrist computer a simple brass and glass SPG is all you need. Most come from Termo in Italy and are just branded with a particular dive companies name. They come in two sizes, medium and large, personally I prefer the medium. I don't use a boot. This link will give you some idea as the options:

https://www.divegearexpress.com/spg

An SMB is a must in my option with finger spool, as is a cutting device, I carry two, a trilobyte and some shears, link below:

https://www.divegearexpress.com/cutting-tools

https://www.divegearexpress.com/lift-bags

https://www.divegearexpress.com/spools


A compass is also a must have in my opinion, I like the Suunto SK7 in a DeepSeaSupply bungee mount, Suunto have recently come out with a newer version, the SK8.

https://www.deepseasupply.com/index.php?product=47

If if you have a wee look around the DGX website it'll give you some ideas as to what's available, prices etc. DGX are a very good store.

A light is another consideration, the type will depends on its intended purpose.

Im not suggesting you buy all from DGX, it's a good place to browse and see what's available and at what prices.

Good of luck with your shopping.

---------- Post added July 2nd, 2015 at 11:06 PM ----------

I'm not sure what fins you're using but if they have the standard rubber straps upgrading to spring straps or similar is also a good idea.

 

[Colliam7]

1. BC - I'm looking for a solid BC that will last a long time and able to grow with me as a diver. I was looking at the Zeagle Wicked Ranger - $470 used.

That's a lot of money for this unit. It is only $100 less than what LeisurePro would charge for the same unit, new on their website, and only $30 less than what they would charge for a new unit on Amazon.com - not much of a discount for used gear (aka, nowhere near enough). But, a bigger issue is, what is it about this particular BCD that appeals to you? Please understand, I am a fan of Zeagle products, which have historically been very durable, and the compnay has historically been very responsive to customers. I even have a Ranger, which was my first BCD. And, it sits in my closet unused (as has been for many years) because it simply isn't an efficient single cylinder rig. I don't need 44lbs of lift (or anywhere near that) for single cylinders (AL or steel). I don't need an inherently buoyant / floaty BCD that requires me to add weight to compensate for that positive buoyancy. What attracts you to it? How do you see this unit being able to 'grow' with you as a diver?

2. Regulator/Alt/SPG - Oceanic Alpha 9 SP-6 - $299, so far this regulator has given me the best ability to do long slow breaths. I've demoed a scubapro, but I just felt like I was taking bigger breaths of air/ . . . Oceanic Alpha 8 Octo - $129, everyone I've talked to recommended this/

I am curious about your regulator selection. Other than price - admittedly quite low - what led you to this particular set-up? When you say you 'demoed' a Scubapro, I presume you 'demoed' the Oceanic. At what depths? Under what conditions? Should your ability to take long slow breaths be governed by your inherent breathing control, not by a regulator that is simply hard(er) to breath? Maybe I have been missing something, but I have always liked a regulator that allowed me to take - if I wanted to - bigger breaths of air. And, although 'everyone' you talked to recommended the Alpha 8 octo, why are you getting two different second stages (again, other than price)? Just curious.

 

[kelemvor]

Personally, I'd go regulator first. Only because the regulators most shops rent are kind of low end and often abused.

Don't overlook used (or last years model) gear. I've got two "high end" regulator sets (scubapro mk25/s600) that I paid about $350 each for. One of them was brand new from an authorized dealer. Scubapro likes to change the face-plate on their regulators every year and then blow out the stock on last years' stuff.

Whatever brand regulator you buy, make sure there is an authorized service center near you. Regulators have to be frequently serviced and I bet shipping to/from Hawaii is not cheap.


I'd be willing to bet the difference you discerned in the scubapro vs oceanic at the surface was merely an adjustment difference. Even the cheapest regulators should be able to deliver more air than you need at the surface. Not that I'm knocking oceanic, I've never used one.

 

[boulderjohn]

Hi Phoenix,
I have to respond to this, because it is such a pervasive belief with new divers, and I expect this has it's origins in the profit potential with dive shops...

It may well be that you live in a place, where a new diver can do such a multi level profile, that the tables will not leave them enough time to maximize enjoyment on a standard 2 tank boat trip. However, I have a hard time envisioning what the diving sites would be like, that would change the basic nature of novice diver potential so much...

Having done a lot of diving in both Hawai'i and South Florida, I can say with great confidence that they are decidedly different environments. Multi-lvel dives are very common in Hawai'i. Let me describe one in which I participated.

We were setting out with one dive plan in mind and made a rapid change when we looked down and saw a manta ray at a cleaning station. We dropped down to 100 feet and watched until it left. We were about to do the same when the manta ray was replaced in the cleaning station by an eagle ray. We stayed a little longer and then ascended the sloping coral reef until we came upon another item of interest--a helmet conch stalking (and capturing) a decorator urchin. We then ascended to the top of the reef at about 15-20 feet and looked at the coral and fish until our air supplies ran low enough to force us to the surface. The total dive time was more than twice what we would have gotten on tables.

One good reason to make a computer an early purchase is the fact that although all the basic recreational computers all have the same key features, they are all different in how they do them. One example is dive planning. You can go to the computer's dive planning function and see how much bottom time you would have if you did all your next dive at the same depth. Another feature is emergency decompression--if you violate NDLs, your computer will tell you how to decompress. If you are always renting unfamiliar computers, you will not know how they do important functions like that, and those features are lost to you. If you instead purchase your own, you can learn how the computer handles those critical functions and be ready to use them when needed.

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

Most important gear in order of importance:

1. Mask and fins ( comfortable mask without leaking, and fins are what get you down, up, and move where you want to--fins are your most important life support purchase, and you should buy the best, most efficient ones you can afford).
2. Bp/wing rather than jacket bc...will last for 2 or 3 decades if a decent brand. Many Jacket Bc's last 2 or 3 seasons
3. Inexpensive quality reg....entry level Scuba pro not a bad way to go with this. You don't need to spend a lot on a fancy high end reg.
4. Exposure suit....sometimes you can buy a wetsuit from rental gear at a dive shop, that fits well and will be fine.
5. you need a dive watch ( elapsed time bezel and water proof--can be very inexpensive)....and a depth guage....Alternatively a bottom timer/combo depth guage....dont waste your money on a dive computer. If you are doing 60 foot dives, with Nitrox, as a new diver you will be low on gas long before you will be any where near the end of safe no deco times on a dive. A few hundred dives later, depending on where you dive, you can decide if you really need a computer. I've have had many over the last several decades, but for 90% of the diving I do off of Palm beach, Fl, I have zero need for one. you should memorize the no deco tables.
6. Buy a volume discount card from a dive boat operation you like, and start to dive alot....this is where your money needs to go....and see what gear the boat operator has, that they will offer free or inexpensively to frequent divers. Typically in S Fl, weights and belt are free on most boats...as an example.

What Dan said. For anyone diving in cold water, I'd probably have the exposure protection (dry suit) higher in the list. And if you are male, getting a p-valve installed. OP isn't, but for anyone else who is new and dives in cold water...

 

[buddhasummer]

What Dan said. For anyone diving in cold water, I'd probably have the exposure protection (dry suit) higher in the list. And if you are male, getting a p-valve installed. OP isn't, but for anyone else who is new and dives in cold water...

Absolutely, for new cold water divers well fitting appropriate thermal protection should be at the top of the list with mask. Nothing ruins a dive like a leaky mask or being cold. I hate being cold. Cold is my nemesis.