Pictures! Just thought I'd share a couple......

[Triton]

Good job Herman,

Well, I guess I can't blame my MX-10 for the bad pictures I been taking. Time to accept that it's not the camara, it's just ME ;-( .

Thanks to all for the much needed help. Time to head out and try and try again.

 

[Dee]

Herman, I used my MX-10 for several years before I upgraded to a S&S MMIIEX-pro. Yes, the Y40 strobe does use an infrared light to slave off the camera. If you can stabelize yourself and can hold the angle, it works just great. But if your in a drift or current, or for some reason it's hard to hold your position, it's hard to keep the angle just right.

Did you know you can also add an additional strobe to the MX-10? The newer camera have a hole in the bottom of the camera to attach a strobe base plate. Using that, a strobe arm and a small slave strobe, the photos are most excellent! My MX-10 doesn't have the hole..

 

[herman]

Hi Dee,

Mine is the older one as well. I know about the ir link but what I am talking about is that the strobe will actually slave off of the internal flash( not the ir link) in the same manner as some of the other low end cameras like the reef master or the slave strobe on more expensive cameras. I am looking at building a flash shade like the one the reefmaster uses to help reduce the backscatter caused by the internal flash. Don't know how well it will work but it won't be the first roll of film I have wasted!!

 

[Dee]

Herman...
You said..."what I am talking about is that the strobe will actually slave off of the internal flash( not the ir link)"

You mean to remove the Y40 from the camera and it will slave from the internal flash? Didn't know that! Doesn't that still cause backscatter? The light is still being reflected directly back to the lens from the internal flash.

 

[herman]

Hi Dee,

That's exactly what I mean. I was unaware of it as well and happened to be looking at a S&S sales flier and saw it with just a quick note on it, so I went home and gave it a try without film....It will slave. I have never seem mention of doing it in any manual I have seen. I suspect you are correct about the backscatter so I am going to build a screen like to other low end cameras use and attach it using the screw connection that is for the acc lens wiewfinders. It may not work worth a hoot but something for me to tinker with in the cold. Let you know how it works out. Love your fish school!!

 

[Dee]

I'm gonna have to try that! I love my MMIIEX but there's lots of times I either don't take it down or wish I hadn't, especually with double strobes!

Let me know how that screen thingy works. If you can block even a little of the direct flash, it should work.

 

[joewr]

Dee,

Tell me how you got the two great photos of the slendid toadfish! I have a couple of photos of these wonderful fish, but they are peaking out from their lairs. The one time I saw one out in the open was on a night dive--and I did not have my camera--damn, damn, damn! At any rate yours are great!

I read what you and Herman wrote about slaves for the S&S cameras and wondered if you had tried the S&S YS30? It slaves by use of a photo cell(no cables needed). I use one with my Nikonos in conjuction with a YS60. They can be used with diffusers to minumize backscatter when a wide angle lens is used--I have even had success with a 15mm and that combo. I would also suggest that a diffuser placed over the front of the "interal" flash on the MM would do the trick to minumize backscatter. You could probably get a piece of frosted plexiglas from a local plastic shop and attach it with marine double stick foam tape(another great 3M product).

I do not know the S&S camera that well, but if you are "handy" my experience is that you can make adapters for attaching flash etc. fairly easily. I admit to having a tool-filled shop(table saw, drill press, routers, sanding stations, presses, and on and on) and, thus, making things is relatively straight forward for me, but if you are a little courageous, have a drill, a saw and a heat gun(or a blow drier), you can make almost anything from thermoplastics like plexiglas.


Once again--great splendid toadfish--or as they say in Cozumel, Un pez Sapo mas bonito que nada!

Joewr

 

[Dee]

I was on a night dive on Palancar Bricks. I was lagging behind, waiting for the crowd to quit spooking all the livestock, when I see the first Toadfish skimming over the sand going to another hidey hole. Problem was, there was already a Toadfish in the hole he was aiming at. The fight commenced! You can't imagine the grunting, croaking and wrestling that went on! Didn't last long, in fact I didn't have time to take a photo of the action. I must admit it was pretty cool!

Yes, I use a YS30 slave strobe with my YS50 primary. Neat little flash! I've been trying to find one of the snap-on diffusers for it. I've made diffusers before out of milk jug plastic and out of tupperware lids, both work pretty well...and I don't mind losing those! The YS30 fills in nicely for 20mm and 16mm lenses. It's nice to be able to use wide angle on a night dive, too.

Thanks for the compliment, glad you liked them!

 

[joewr]

Dee,

My YS30 came with a diffuser--and, so I assume you can get one directly from S&S. There is a nifty little hole in the diffuser which I used to attach a piece of polypropylene cord--the other end of the cord is attached to my strobe arm to prevent loss. I did that because the diffuser is a loose fit.

However, as I mentioned, you can get a piece of frosted plexiglas from Tap Plastics (or the like) and attach it all sorts of ways. If you are not too embarassed, you can even use duck tape! Not too nifty, but it works!

God, am I envious of your Splendid Toadfish photos! I hope next time I am in Cozumel, I can spot one again. They truly are splendid!

Joewr