Please help with 105 mm Macro!
- Thread starter Cacia
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RonFrank
Contributor
catherine96821:
Well Cat, you have one of the most important things going for you, you have a good eye for composition. You can learn the technical details over time, but I've seen many a student with expensive equipment that could not get a good composition even after weeks or even months of shooting and instruction
Hey, fly me to Hawaii, and I'll make your head spin with technical mumbojumbo
Waitasec, how do I get in on this? Hawaii sounds fantastic right about now. I'll let you borrow my lenses. I'll even teach you how to do RAW in photoshop!
Tortuga Roja
Guest
Diver Dennis:
If I dove in different conditions like say the PNW, I would definately get a focus light. But In this usually clear water and the fact that I use manual focus on most macros, I really don't hassel with it. For the rare instance that I need one, I hold a flashlite. Not convenient but it works - usually. If you use AF a lot, you will love your focus lite when it comes.
I don't like modeling lite on the ds125 for a focus light either but for different reasons. While the battery holds up pretty good, I don't like the idea of the strobe flash pointing directly at the subject most of the time. Sometimes, I do like the modeling light for a night dive lite though.
Ron - my disagreeing is always respectful.
I have to admit my topside skills basically suck but I'm working on them.
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Warren, its really easy to get invited! All you have to do is bring a chaperone (I am on perpetual probation) and not mind a converted garage! I put it out there before, trying to get a photography Instructor to trade instruction for accommodations. I have been trying to get Dennis to come but he is too busy jetsetting.....
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Macro 101 (continued) I don't have any revelations, I am posting practice images so that people helping me know that I am trying to get out of program mode. Maybe I will just post a question every few days and if photogs can stop by and give an answer, great.
To optimize depth of field on an object that is in more than one plane, with a short DOF lense like the 105 mm, what should I think/ do?
Also, I understand inverse relationships and fractions but is there an easier way to think about the f-stops and the shutterspeed values I see on my camera? Also, I do not know how to post so that my settings show up the way they do on my computer....
Thanks, Catherine
To optimize depth of field on an object that is in more than one plane, with a short DOF lense like the 105 mm, what should I think/ do?
Also, I understand inverse relationships and fractions but is there an easier way to think about the f-stops and the shutterspeed values I see on my camera? Also, I do not know how to post so that my settings show up the way they do on my computer....
Thanks, Catherine
catherine - these are lovely.
To post an image: make the longest side 640 to 700 pixels. convert to srgb. Save for web under 100kbs. This isn't set in stone, but seems to work really well even for slow servers.
The easiest way for me to think of shutter speed when I am shooting underwater - it controls my water colour. Fast shutter makes it dark, rich blue or black; slower makes it lighter blue. Slower means that light has more time to get in.
Aperture - the smaller the aperture the greater the DOF. And small is the big number! f22 is smaller than F5.6 I try not to worry about fractions
Oh yeah, I forgot, if you keep things on the same plane you can trick the eye a little bit. DOF really gets messed up when you try to take, for instance, the eye of a barracuda and the tip of his nose from straight on...coming at it from the side a bit works wonders.
Does this help?
To post an image: make the longest side 640 to 700 pixels. convert to srgb. Save for web under 100kbs. This isn't set in stone, but seems to work really well even for slow servers.
The easiest way for me to think of shutter speed when I am shooting underwater - it controls my water colour. Fast shutter makes it dark, rich blue or black; slower makes it lighter blue. Slower means that light has more time to get in.
Aperture - the smaller the aperture the greater the DOF. And small is the big number! f22 is smaller than F5.6 I try not to worry about fractions
Oh yeah, I forgot, if you keep things on the same plane you can trick the eye a little bit. DOF really gets messed up when you try to take, for instance, the eye of a barracuda and the tip of his nose from straight on...coming at it from the side a bit works wonders.
Does this help?
If your background is too light, change your shutter speed to something faster.
If you want to get great dof on a close up, go to a smaller f stop (f18, 20, 22 etc). If you want to have a smaller zone in crisp focus (for drama or whatever) try opening up.
When I shoot macro, I usually leave my shutter alone as I have it set pretty fast to darken the background. This leaves my main choice my aperture. YMMV
If you want to get great dof on a close up, go to a smaller f stop (f18, 20, 22 etc). If you want to have a smaller zone in crisp focus (for drama or whatever) try opening up.
When I shoot macro, I usually leave my shutter alone as I have it set pretty fast to darken the background. This leaves my main choice my aperture. YMMV
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