Roll Control System

[johlar]

I just purchased a roll control system to carry my scuba tanks. Before I go drilling holes in my new boat I'm wondering if anyone is familiar with installing the aluminum tracks. My current plan is to drill a hole and then use a dry wall anchor of some sort to screw into.

Has anyone done something like this or if you have a better idea I'd appreciate your thoughts.

 

[diverrick]

Could you tell us what your boat is made of? is it all glass, or is it glass over plywwod? maybe aluminum? And where do you wish to mount the tracks? on the floor, along the sidewalls, on a bench seat? That would help a bit.

 

[johlar]

Could you tell us what your boat is made of? is it all glass, or is it glass over plywwod? maybe aluminum? And where do you wish to mount the tracks? on the floor, along the sidewalls, on a bench seat? That would help a bit.

The boat is all fiberglass and I want to mount on a hollow side wall.

 

[Tall Tails]

If you can get behind the wall I would through bolt with a backing plate. If you cant get behind, see if there is a good place to ount a deck plate so you can get behind. I have through bolted my roll control and it works slick, with no worries. I would worry abou drywall anchors / wall anchors personally as the weight of the tank and stress on the mount due to movement is high. Best of luck.

Jon

 

[pipedope]

Could do a good install in little more time than it would take to type instructions. There are a wide variety of tricks that help in oddball situations.

The important thing is to spread the load out so that you are not point loading the fiberglass anywhere. Drywall anchors are on the right track but do not go far enough. Backing plates are best and there are ways to rig to install them through a small hole (relatively small) if you do not have access to the backside of the wall.

 

[johlar]

Could do a good install in little more time than it would take to type instructions. There are a wide variety of tricks that help in oddball situations.

The important thing is to spread the load out so that you are not point loading the fiberglass anywhere. Drywall anchors are on the right track but do not go far enough. Backing plates are best and there are ways to rig to install them through a small hole (relatively small) if you do not have access to the backside of the wall.

Unfortunately I do not have access to the backside of the wall, it is a hollow wall on a 16 ft Palm Beach if that helps. I am considering toggle bolts which require a 1/2 inch hole. The ones I'm considering will have about an inch and a quarter of surface gripping the backside of the wall. The roll system kit instructions call for a screw at each end of the rail so if I go with 4 per rail I'm hoping that should be enough.

 

[Akyla]

Johlar,

Most of the tank weight sits on the deck and the brackets only have to secure the vertical load (which can be a good bit when the boat rolls). I have use the roll controls on three of my boats and never had the rail pull loose using four fasteners per four foot track section. Just remember that the hardware must allow the bracket to slide in the track. I have always used fasteners with an angled head and chamfered the bolt hole so the fastener head sits flush. Depending upon the surface to be mounted to have used both 1/4 20 machine screws and #10 wood screws with equal success. In your situation the toggles will probably work, but that 1/2 inch hole is a bit to deal with. It might be worth taking something apart so that you can put some backing material in there to run the fasteners into. I used toggle bolts to hold down a fighting chair and they never loosened up so they certainly will hold these brackets and some tanks.

Good luck with it.

 

[ChrisA]

Unfortunately I do not have access to the backside of the wall, it is a hollow wall on a 16 ft Palm Beach if that helps. I am considering toggle bolts which require a 1/2 inch hole. The ones I'm considering will have about an inch and a quarter of surface gripping the backside of the wall. The roll system kit instructions call for a screw at each end of the rail so if I go with 4 per rail I'm hoping that should be enough.

Get a 4 inch hole saw and install a deck plate and cover. Now you have
access and the ability to install a marine plywood backing plate and
through bolts and nylon insert lock nuts and fender washers

Also you will want to use some kind of sealent to prevent water from getting in the holes you drill

Yes this sounds like a bunch of work but you don't want cracks
radiating out from the mounting screw after some number of years

You are using marine grade stainless steel hardware? Standard
hardwarestore steel scres will not last a year and will leave
rust stains on the gelcoat. Those stainless, nylon insert
nuts really are worth the high price they charge for them