Snap Similans Report

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JonnieB

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Location
Phuket, Thailand
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Snap Similans Report

January 2006 Phuket, Thailand

Keywords: SCUBA Diving, Thailand, Similan Islands, Live-Aboard, Andaman Dancer II

The following is a short report on my recent liveaboard dive-trip to the Similan islands. We were a single group of intermediate and advanced divers – both Thais and foreign expatriates resident in Thailand. We left from Tab Lamu (on the Thai mainland about 1 hour north of Phuket) and sailed to the Similan islands and Ko Bon and then returned to Tab Lamu. I dived 10 times during the 5 day trip. No diving was done at Ko Tachai or Richelieu Rock.

General Diving Conditions

Being it’s January, the weather conditions were not what I would call ideal. There was no rain or storm activity but most days had partly sunny skies, with scattered, and sometimes heavy, cloud cover. This reduced UW lighting and visibility to some extent and also took away the often bright and pretty UW vistas common to the Similans. Currents were minimal to moderate (where expected) and visibility was from 15m-25m. Water temperature at all sites was a constant 28°-29° Celsius. Diving was done to 30 meters at some sites and no thermoclines were encountered.

I have to say the marine life seen was unexceptional. In general, the sites seemed curiously devoid of the prolific fish life the area is known for and that I have seen in past years. [This was my 4th Similans liveaboard in 3 years, the last being in April 2005 (4 months post-tsunami).] All the sites had a smattering of the usual reef suspects but not much more. Few large schools of colourful fish (fusiliers, snappers, etc) were seen, although one decent sized barracuda tornado was observed. Several banded sea-snakes, a few morays, the odd mantis shrimp, and a single small hawksbill turtle were recorded in my dive-log. There areas famous prolific soft coral growth was also much less in evidence.

The Divesites

East Of Eden: Dived two times - generally considered one of the premiere Similans sites. Vis was recorded at 15-20 meters. Notables included a large giant moray and many large angelfish, including Emperor and Regal varieties, as well as striped-face unicorn fish.

West of Eden: Napoleon wrasse and many colourful gobies at around 10 meters, including Red-fire and Black-fin gobies.

Boulder City: A deep sandy site with massive boulder formations, similar to Elephant-head Rock. Good vis at 20-25 meters. Site known for leopard sharks but alas didn’t see any. Some open-water pelagics seen, including tuna, blue-fin trevelly, and the afore mentioned school of barracuda.

Deep 6: Again large boulders on a deep sandy bottom. Log-book notes this is where the Hawksbill turtle was seen.

Honeymoon Bay/Shipwreck: While I have dived the inner area of Honeymoon Bay before, this was my first time to the “shipwreck” located on the perimeter of the Bay. This is a fairly deep dive, with the large intact freighter lying on its side starting at about 30 meters. It appeared to be around 50-60 meters in length and was quite an impressive sight... lying in non-turbid waters making for an easy approach and inspection. There are swim-throughs present. The usual wreck-accompanying batfish were about, along with some lionfish and a moray. I didn’t get much information on this wreck’s history so maybe someone with more knowledge about it can post a reply. On the dive back from the wreck, there is a very impressive long wall of lettuce/cabbage hard coral, wherein some large groupers and a sea-snake were observed.

Elephant Head Rock: Another signature site at the Similans, but this time, not so impressive. Visibility was somewhat lower than at other visits at 12-15 meters and in any case, there was not much of interest to see. My log-book mentions nothing in particular except that the site seemed “washed-out.”

Rocky Point – Island #9: No currents and vis at 15-20 meters. No prolific fish life but a Day octopus was seen. One interesting site was a rather large “common” scorpion fish “walking” along the sandy bottom by way of its pectoral fins. It seemed quite intent on getting from one rocky mount to another without having to put any effort into finning. This was a fairly deep sandy bottom site, ideal for some rays or sharks but again, none were seen.

Ko Bon: Two dives were done here, there were no currents, except around the point, where they are always present. Again I noted the relative dearth of marine life compared to previous years/visits. The deep sandy bottom off to the side of the wall is usually good for a shark sighting, and if one is really lucky possibly a whale shark or manta ray. There was to be no such luck this trip. The reef wall itself and the reef around the point are usually good for turtles too but none were seen. A couple morays, lionfish, sea-snakes, and a lobster had to suffice.

Conclusion

In general, all the sites visited seemed to have much less numbers and variety of marine life than on prior visits before the tsunami…I use the term “washed-out” to describe them. I don’t know if this has something to do with the after effects of the Great 2005 Tsunami or not. I know others have posted glowing recent reports on the Similans but my experience on this trip, and the one last April, is that possibly much of the local marine life was either washed away or washed ashore and has yet to make much of a recovery. Additional comment from those who have recently dived the Similans would be most interesting.

In fact, I would go so far as to advise those considering a Similans liveaboard trip to possibly consider other alternatives. There are many areas in SE Asia with great diving that were not in any way effected by the tsunami (Sipadan, Bali, Bunaken/Lembeh, and the Philippines to name a few), whereas the Similians were more or less directly in the path of one of its strongest radiating waves…the one that devastated the Kao Lak coastline of Thailand – just east of the Similans. These are strong words and as much as I want to support the Thai diving industry I also want readers of this forum, and those contemplating an expensive dive trip to the Similans, to have the benefit of some objective observations of current conditions there. It’s possible that mine views are a minority opinion or that maybe I just had bad “fish” luck on this trip (but at every site/dive on both this trip and last April’s...seems to be a pattern).

In any case, from reading this report and those of others, readers can draw their own conclusions.
 
Don't know if this has anything to do with the tsunami. I think that if you only did 10 dives during a 5 day period, it is hard to draw any conclusions. It might just be a temporary situation due to specific conditions during your visit.

Anyone working the Similans (who's not a partner in any business) who care to give their reflections and thoughts?

cheers

/christian
 
I did the Similans for 4 days (14 dives) in November. I also did the same trip last year at the same time.

I would agree that one or two sites - in particular Elephant Head had damage to the flora. Generally though it was still spectacular and the visibility was mostly 30m+.

I saw 4 different shark species, and several large rays, turtles, Napoleons etc. We also saw a huge manta at Koh Bon.

Just as impressive were the smaller stuff like ghost pipefish, sea horse frogfish etc.

Coral was in generally good condition apart from a few limited areas - but this was mostly old dynamite damage.

So in summary I would say don't miss the opportunity if you get a chance but do try to get to Richelieu Rock as well.

Cheers
 
bathbiggles1:
I did the Similans for 4 days (14 dives) in November. I also did the same trip last year at the same time.

I would agree that one or two sites - in particular Elephant Head had damage to the flora. Generally though it was still spectacular and the visibility was mostly 30m+.

I saw 4 different shark species, and several large rays, turtles, Napoleons etc. We also saw a huge manta at Koh Bon.

Just as impressive were the smaller stuff like ghost pipefish, sea horse frogfish etc.

Coral was in generally good condition apart from a few limited areas - but this was mostly old dynamite damage.

So in summary I would say don't miss the opportunity if you get a chance but do try to get to Richelieu Rock as well.

Cheers

Old dynamite damage??!! The similans is a marine park. How could they use dynamite fishing! Or are these dynamite fishing conducted before it became a marine park? In that case, how "old" are these dynamite damage? I hope they are healed from the dynamite damage now.
 
Sounds like you had a bad trip there. Only 10 dives in 5 days. Stayed in the Similans and did not go to Richelieu. Not great weather.

A tsunami cannot and did not do this : "much of the local marine life was either washed away or washed ashore" When the tsunami passed the islands it created currents that damaged some corals especially in narrow channels such as between islands 8-9, but you are having a laugh to say it washed marine life ashore! The Similan islands are 50km from land! In fact for much of last season, the marine life seemed to be MORE than normal. And seems that bathbiggles1 had a great trip - maybe on a better boat? Which boat were you on bathbiggles1? Jonnie - I never heard of the Andaman Dancer - is it one of those cheap Khao Lak boats?

I agree Elephant head is a bit bare, but it always was. The dive site is famous for large granite boulders, not for corals.

nuswhl - there are 1 or 2 patches of old damage that have been there for 10 years or more. Nothing you need worry about. And since coral grows very slowly, they are unlikely to be healed now when bathbiggles1 saw them in November :) You can see new growth coming. If you dive there regularly, year on year you can see coral growing.

Jonnie - cheer up :) and I suugest you get some dives in at Hin Daeng or come back to Similan later in the season when the weather is sure to be hot hot hot.

I agree Sipadan, Lembeh are great too. Of course the coral at Sipadan is poor, you just go and hope for big fish, and to dive Lembeh you really need to love those small critters..Similan for me has more variety than either, kind of a jack of all trades, but master of none. Its why I have stayed in Thailand for 6 years :)

Hope to see some more posts here about peoples recent dive experience in the Similan Islands and Richelieu Rock.
 
Batfish...chill out the "washed ashore" comment was a joke :D

Bat and Christian...these were my impressions from the last 2 trips I have taken to Sims (both post-Tsunami) out of 4 trips there.

I am glad to hear that other sites (that we didn't get to) are still very good. I have dived RR before and happy to hear it is still very good.

Yes, the Andaman Dancer is out of Kao Laak but the sites will still be the same no matter what boat is moored there at the time :11doh:
 
Batfish:
nuswhl - there are 1 or 2 patches of old damage that have been there for 10 years or more. Nothing you need worry about. And since coral grows very slowly, they are unlikely to be healed now when bathbiggles1 saw them in November :) You can see new growth coming. If you dive there regularly, year on year you can see coral growing.
.

Now that's a relief, knowing that dynamite fishing is a day of the past and only some old wounds remain. I sure hope I can dive there regularly. Ho Ho!
 
I went on the Queen Scuba - and I disagree with you Johnnie - the boat does make a huge difference.

The key one is the quality of the guiding. If the guides know their stuff then they know where and WHEN to dive each site to get the best out of it. For example some sites are best dived as the first of the day (for depth and fish action) whereas others are best with better light (or light from a particular direction) or others are best at sunset or when currents prevail. Sometimes the guides have to work really hard with the captain to plan and make itineraries work. This includes making sure you dive sites where the other boats are not. This can mean more fuel and more effort - so again quality of guides and crew are the difference.

And frankly the best guides tend to be on the best boats - because they get to choose. Our guide was the best I have ever had on over a dozen different liveaborads worldwide. His knowledge and enthusiasm helped me see things I would never have known about. In fact when I think about it, I should have tipped him bigger!!

My advice - make sure you are on the best boat you can afford.

Cheers
 
Returned recently from a Similans/Surin Island liveaboard trip. It was our first trip to Thailand so there's no basis for comparison in terms of marine life pre- and post- tsunami. While we absolutely loved it, we did hear dynamite exploding while we were under water diving in the Similans. It occurred on one trip and we heard two separate explosions. Our divemaster who also heard the explosions estimated the distance to be around 6 miles away and likely due to fishing boats (this was during the day).
 
Amy WJ:
Returned recently from a Similans/Surin Island liveaboard trip. It was our first trip to Thailand so there's no basis for comparison in terms of marine life pre- and post- tsunami. While we absolutely loved it, we did hear dynamite exploding while we were under water diving in the Similans. It occurred on one trip and we heard two separate explosions. Our divemaster who also heard the explosions estimated the distance to be around 6 miles away and likely due to fishing boats (this was during the day).
Oh my God! I thought the Similans were a Marine park and fishing is not allowed there.
Explanations? anyone?
 
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