Sudan diving and sea conditions?

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Just some facts before things get to emotional: Sudan is an unstable country and has so been for the last 30-40 years. A civil war raged for more than 20 years in the south. Lately media has showed more interest because of the situation in Darfour, but generally speaking it is not more dangerous to go to Port Sudan today than it was 2, 5 or ten years ago. The governments of western countries haven't precisely won any popularity contests in Khartoum since the British left in the 50's.

Personally I will not advice anyone to go or not. But I have been several times. First time in the 90's when the civil war raged in the south, and I was there just after the USA bombed a medical factory outside Khartoum (I actually think this was the all time low regarding popularity for western governments) and I have been there after the Darfour crisis surfaced. I have never felt unsafe or threatened. As Seaduece say, it is a very big country (Africas largest) and the conflict areas have always been very far from Port Sudan. The Sudanese people, even though they have very little, are very welcoming and hospitable. I have been invited to dine out in Port Sudan by Sudanese crewmen, bringing their families. They always pick up the bill (of course I have given them a nice tip on the boat).

It is perhaps not a destination for everyone due to several factors. And there is of course a certain amount of risk involved going to an unstable third world country. You have to make up your own mind. My advice is to get some facts from people who has actually been there. And to check the current political sitiuation of course.

Regarding hammerheads. It is one of the absolute best in the world (but you have to do your homework!). There are other places that are clearly better, like Galapagos and Cocos, but they are much more expensive to get to and there are no coral reefs and also lower visibilty (esp. Galapagos), so if you want tropical waters and hammerheads, it is hard to beat. A lot better than e.g. Layang Layang in Malaysia or Pescador Island (they are all gone now) in the Phillipines which have earned a reputation as a hammerhead hot spots. But don't expect to see hammerheads in the fall. You will have to go in march-may. There are also more 'general' action on the reefs in the spring when the reefs 'wake up' after the winter. Don't know where in Moz Seaduce is reffering to, but you can see some in the south, close to South Africa, but it's not as consistant as in Sudan and not schools of 30-50 sharks like on Sha'ab Rumi in spring. Perhaps somewhere else.

Merry Christmas

/christian
 
Hi Christian:

Thanks for your useful post. I am looking at either a Sudan dive or November trip in Egypt with Red Sea Safaris out of Denmark. ANy insight on the company, or the Red Sea in November?

The November trip is geared for DSLR photographers, and I understand Alex Mustard is running seminars.

Cheers,

Dan

Thanks for any information.
 
Was diving Ponto Malongane, as you rightly said - near Sth. Africa - last October. Had one school of 31 hammers (counted them) which hung around us on the Northern Pinnacles the last day we dived. Many juveniles. Plus two tigers on the bottom.

Bluewater diving at its best.

We counted ourselves lucky!

And, yes, the eastern Pacific is the best bet for guaranteed hammerhead action, unless el Nino has just passed by.

No whalesharks though. They continue to elude me ...


Seadeuce
 

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