Trouble reaching the switch on my Can Light

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I'm not sure exactly what problem you're having so this suggestion may not work, but I found it helpful to move the cannister lower by loosening the hose clamps and sliding the belt loop closer to the lid. If this doesn't work, I would suggest you send the light to me for safe disposal.
 
reubencahn:
I'm not sure exactly what problem you're having so this suggestion may not work, but I found it helpful to move the cannister lower by loosening the hose clamps and sliding the belt loop closer to the lid. If this doesn't work, I would suggest you send the light to me for safe disposal.


It's stated pretty clear. I can't reach the toggle switch when I'm all geared up. Part of the problem is that the can is a tad high so your answer is interesting but is it DIR? Seriously I wouldn't know, is it?

Thanks.
 
I don't see why moving the canister down a little would be any sort of issue. I mean, there are bigger canister lights out there that hang a lot lower.
 
I wear mine low, the SS hose clamps are just above and below the locking latches.

It also makes it significnatly eaiser to tuck the hose around.
 
One of the first things I did with my can light was to loosen teh hose clamps and shift the light as low as I could get it. In my case, due to my stature (being a very short person) this was necessary. Even in my most flexible wetsuit I cuoldn't reach the switch with teh canister mounted in its original from-factory position.

Yes, I find that in my drysuit when I can't "quite" reach the switch a gentle tug on the light cord pivots the top of the canister forward that extra 1/2" I need.........
 
CALI68:
I can get my buddy to hit it but I like to be self sufficient. :) I was able to turn it off under water after the dive but I was a royal pain.

between self sufficiency and allowing your buddy to help you. If you're going DIR, you might as well realize now that it's all about the Team (Environment, Equipment, Team), so it's really no big deal just asking your buddy to hit the switch for you on the surface. This is when you would be firing up your light anyway. At that time, you will also be doing bubble checks on each other, modified s-drills, and going over your dive plan. The one light you want to be able to get to on your own is your backup.
 
CALI68:
Thanks Lane you're a huge help, glad to have you here. Anyway let's get back to the issue. OK so I'll use my weighted STA, PST E7100, 2 CAM pockets with 2lbs in each pocket. That will leave my belt wide open but now what? I think I remember GRATEFULDIVER saying that he put a buckle on first then the Can then another buckle (or soemthing like that) at any rate lets start with wide open waist belt and go from there. How do I get the Can more forward and secure it in place.

Let gravity do the work on getting the can to lay more forward. Originally, the waist buckle was used to hold the can in place. That's one of the reasons the buckle favors the right-hand side. What many people have adopted, especially for ocean diving, is a 2 buckle method. The can goes on first, followed by a loose buckle and then the waist buckle. The loose buckle and the waist strap buckle should be oriented in the same direction. This helps prevent the light from falling off when the waist strap is taken off. To allow the canister to move forward, release the buckle, move the can forward, turn on the light, move the can and buckle back up and slap the buckle down. This can all be done without ever touching the waist strap.

Another adjustment you can make, which a few others have mentioned, is to move the belt loop higher on the canister. This helps out a whole buch, especially on the smaller canisters like the Helios 9 and 4.5. It gives you a little more "reach" to be able to flip the switch.

Give these a shot and let us know how it works out.
 
lragsac:
between self sufficiency and allowing your buddy to help you. If you're going DIR, you might as well realize now that it's all about the Team (Environment, Equipment, Team), so it's really no big deal just asking your buddy to hit the switch for you on the surface. This is when you would be firing up your light anyway. At that time, you will also be doing bubble checks on each other, modified s-drills, and going over your dive plan. The one light you want to be able to get to on your own is your backup.

Now that's the kind of info I need. I was under the inpression that you HAD to be able to do it yourself. Having a team member do it makes perfect sence.

Thanks!
 
Lane Zimmer:
Let gravity do the work on getting the can to lay more forward. Originally, the waist buckle was used to hold the can in place. That's one of the reasons the buckle favors the right-hand side. What many people have adopted, especially for ocean diving, is a 2 buckle method. The can goes on first, followed by a loose buckle and then the waist buckle. The loose buckle and the waist strap buckle should be oriented in the same direction. This helps prevent the light from falling off when the waist strap is taken off. To allow the canister to move forward, release the buckle, move the can forward, turn on the light, move the can and buckle back up and slap the buckle down. This can all be done without ever touching the waist strap.

Another adjustment you can make, which a few others have mentioned, is to move the belt loop higher on the canister. This helps out a whole buch, especially on the smaller canisters like the Helios 9 and 4.5. It gives you a little more "reach" to be able to flip the switch.

Give these a shot and let us know how it works out.

Excellent ideas! Thanks!
 
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http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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