stayros4248
New
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
what about brightness? is it 1000 lumens or realistic is less?
Trustfire TR-J1 review
- Thread starter Ed Palma
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
chrpai
Contributor
I wasn't really complaining about the size ( smaller is better in tech, right? ) just that I hadn't really paid attention to the specs at that level so it suprised me a bit. I noticed the crown creates shadows in the spill so I took it off also.
Letting dinner process and then off to the pool. It'll be dark in a couple hours.
Letting dinner process and then off to the pool. It'll be dark in a couple hours.
OP
Ed Palma
Contributor
Estimates of 1000 lumen from a single XML are stretching it to say the least... Still, its loads of light for its form factor.
Chrpai, I'm looking forward to your pool tests. I haven't personally tested mine underwater (except for the pot) - let alone at night, so I'm interested to see how the beam looks. I would imagine that due to the refraction of water, the beam would be tighter than it is above water. Could you post photos as well?
chrpai
Contributor
Ok, tonight was my first night in the water with my new BP/W and long hose config. I initially turned the light on and placed it in the water to make sure it wouldn't flood. Later I had it out of the water and I unscrewed the top part of the body instead of the bottom part.
Well, I looked around and didn't see the o-ring you had mentioned so decided to screw it back together. This is when the problems started. The light wouldn't turn off. It's as if rotating the switch was only switching between high and medium and sometimes flash but never off. I unscrewed the bottom piece to get it to turn off.
I thought about screwing it back on just to test under water but though 1) I'm having enough work learning my new gear config I don't need to add the light and 2) since I didn't see the o-ring earlier ( it was getting dark ) I was afraid I must just flood the damn thing.
I did shine it around the pool topside and it seemed fairly bright with a really wide spill. I need to go back over Doc's review where he talks about that magnet. I have the feeling that's the source of my problem.
Sorry nothing more for tonight.
Well, I looked around and didn't see the o-ring you had mentioned so decided to screw it back together. This is when the problems started. The light wouldn't turn off. It's as if rotating the switch was only switching between high and medium and sometimes flash but never off. I unscrewed the bottom piece to get it to turn off.
I thought about screwing it back on just to test under water but though 1) I'm having enough work learning my new gear config I don't need to add the light and 2) since I didn't see the o-ring earlier ( it was getting dark ) I was afraid I must just flood the damn thing.
I did shine it around the pool topside and it seemed fairly bright with a really wide spill. I need to go back over Doc's review where he talks about that magnet. I have the feeling that's the source of my problem.
Sorry nothing more for tonight.
Hatul
Contributor
My guess is that the light did not come with instructions. I have a different light but also with a bottom piece that unscrews as well as a slider light control. In my light the bottom part is a twisty switch, and I bet the same is true for your light. You twist the bottom to switch on and off and the switch control is meant to control the light.
OP
Ed Palma
Contributor
I've read in some seller's literature that to save battery power, the end cap should be unscrewed partly. I've found that in my light, I just need to unscrew it less than a quarter of a turn. This has led me to think that the driver is something a bit more complex than what I'm used to (hence my apprehension at further disassembly of the driver and LED assembly).
Under normal use, the light should turn off the off position. I'll check my light next time to see if there's some current still being drawn in this position. Its quite possible that the "off" position is actually a stand-by mode on the driver.
If my understanding of the chronology of events is correct, was the light working properly initially and started acting up after subsequent disassembly and reassembly?
Maybe when my 2nd light arrives, I'll have more gumption to do a more thorough disassembly of the switch assembly
Under normal use, the light should turn off the off position. I'll check my light next time to see if there's some current still being drawn in this position. Its quite possible that the "off" position is actually a stand-by mode on the driver.
If my understanding of the chronology of events is correct, was the light working properly initially and started acting up after subsequent disassembly and reassembly?
Maybe when my 2nd light arrives, I'll have more gumption to do a more thorough disassembly of the switch assembly
chrpai
Contributor
Yes, the light initially functioned 100%. I removed the main tube from the head assembly but never removed the control ring from the head assembly. When I reassembled the main tube to the head assembly, the control ring ( high, med, low, strobe, off ) no longer functioned correctly.
I've taken it apart again and now that I slide the control ring off I can see the single o-ring previously mentioned in the review. If I can't fix this problem, I suspect I'll be with a light that has a single power setting ( seems high to me ) and power on off control by releasing pressure from the end battery cap.
I can be ok with that but I'd like to try to fix it.
---------- Post added May 15th, 2012 at 07:17 AM ----------
Actually two more observations. I see the magnet in the bezel ring so it didn't fall out or anything. And I see a worse condition. I see some moisture on the inside of the lense.
Not sure how to take this all apart ( watch backout tool? ) so I have a feeling my experiment might be a dud.
I've taken it apart again and now that I slide the control ring off I can see the single o-ring previously mentioned in the review. If I can't fix this problem, I suspect I'll be with a light that has a single power setting ( seems high to me ) and power on off control by releasing pressure from the end battery cap.
I can be ok with that but I'd like to try to fix it.
---------- Post added May 15th, 2012 at 07:17 AM ----------
Actually two more observations. I see the magnet in the bezel ring so it didn't fall out or anything. And I see a worse condition. I see some moisture on the inside of the lense.
Not sure how to take this all apart ( watch backout tool? ) so I have a feeling my experiment might be a dud.
jmneill
Contributor
Well, your review did not go as I had hoped. I am expecting my batteries in the next couple days. I will test it in the river and post back. As for the actual lumens output, I would expect this light to be between 100-200 lumens based on my experience with Surefire weapons lights and the pics I see posted by Doc.
OP
Ed Palma
Contributor
The bezel in front (aside from the attack bezel) can be removed from the outside. What I thought was an internal ring was just part of the design. Beyond removing the lens, and reflector, I can't give anymore advice as I haven't gone beyond that stage.
The o-ring under the control switch is simply for friction and not for sealing.
What I would try doing at this point would be to disassemble to the point previously and letting everything dry out first. Reassemble it making sure all o rings are intact and lubed, all bits torqued correctly. Quick question: when you disassembled it, were you poolside, or were your hands wet? I'd like to try to replicate the circumstances leading to that failure modality because based on your earlier description, simply removing and replacing the battery tube without touching the switch ring shouldn't have caused the switch to become erratic. As a back-up light, I like the idea of being able to switch to a low power setting to maximize battery life. To NOT be able to do that would be a bummer.
The o-ring under the control switch is simply for friction and not for sealing.
What I would try doing at this point would be to disassemble to the point previously and letting everything dry out first. Reassemble it making sure all o rings are intact and lubed, all bits torqued correctly. Quick question: when you disassembled it, were you poolside, or were your hands wet? I'd like to try to replicate the circumstances leading to that failure modality because based on your earlier description, simply removing and replacing the battery tube without touching the switch ring shouldn't have caused the switch to become erratic. As a back-up light, I like the idea of being able to switch to a low power setting to maximize battery life. To NOT be able to do that would be a bummer.
chrpai
Contributor
I'm struggling with how that single o-ring isn't for sealing. What would keep the battery from flooding if it wasn't?
I had placed the light in the pool ( first step of the stairs) as a quick wet test. My hands probably were wet when I unintentionally disassembled the tube. Maybe it just needs to try out. When I rotate the bezel it currently alternates between strobe and on. Not full circle, but like every 8th turn it alternates.
What tool do I need to remove that front bezel? ( I don't have the light with me at work. )
I had placed the light in the pool ( first step of the stairs) as a quick wet test. My hands probably were wet when I unintentionally disassembled the tube. Maybe it just needs to try out. When I rotate the bezel it currently alternates between strobe and on. Not full circle, but like every 8th turn it alternates.
What tool do I need to remove that front bezel? ( I don't have the light with me at work. )
Similar threads
