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I have manged to get my custom Diver canister sealed again using a BS139 O ring stretched on the top seal with original O ring (62mm x 2mm) on the inner seal. This probably means only the BS139 O ring is sealing now as the original O ring is probably doing nothing given it leaked and the lid/lower body is oval. A temporary fix at best I think. I can now feel that the lid has stretched out marginally as there is a step between the lower body and top cap, again clearly indicating that the material is very thin and moves about easily. In my opinion, less than ideal.
I bought two broken Dive Rite Light Canisters, cost about $125.00 a piece. Threw everything away except canister, works great and big enough (11" x 3") for my ACR View PLB and Strobe plus some.
You might want to do some testing to make sure you can get the lid open under different conditions... like when the housing is much colder than when you closed it. A very small differential pressure can be difficult to break depending on the O-ring and clamping design.
I have had 3" housings with flat-face O-ring seals and spring-loaded latches that I couldn't get the lid open on a bench. One of the worst cases was a housing that was closed and the pressure leaked out during a long flight. It took a screwdriver and the anodizing was scarred.
Replacing a switch or cable penetration with an equalizing valve would prevent the problem. A piston seal O-ring with screw threads works in your favor in this application. This thread has a photo: O-rings for Divers
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