What to get serviced?

[Sonic04GT]

That's pretty much what I've been doing the last 5 years or so. Had to change an inflator once because it gunked up. Since I pretty much have an empty BC at depth, all I'd like to be able to do is vent as needed on ascent if necessary. And maybe float on the surface with the BC.

Did you buy the computer before or after LP became an Oceanic dealer?

Good price on the reg service, I pay $60 to service my T2 locally. Parts are free lifetime since I bought it new from them. If you bought the B2 new, you don't need to do that for another year either.

Not sure when LP became an Oceanic dealer but as mentioned, I purchased these around mid-august '08.

I know the Atomic reg only needs to be serviced every 2 years. It's a DIN regulator so I put the little rubber cap on in fresh water once with a little dish soap and an hour or so later when I removed the cap there were some water droplets around the threads. Is that a concern or not?

 

[Sonic04GT]

Atomic further extends the life of the reg with their Seat Saver Orifice: Downside is that if you dunk your regs, it can potentially allow a small amt. of water into the 1st stage. Just hold the 1st stage higher than the 2nd when you do it. Although your B2 is mostly Titanium inside the 1st stage so it's less of an issue.

I guess that somewhat answers my question about the water droplets. So really I don't need to get anything serviced, unless there's an apparent problem when doing a functions test...

Now that I have my own tanks I'll be washing/dunking everything while still pressurized to avoid that in the future.

 

[diversteve]

Did you pay MSRP on the computer? If less, they weren't a dealer at that time so all warranty would be through them. It was sometime last year but I don't remember when either.

But I personally agree with the previous posters, what are they going to check? If they open it, they may as well replace the battery and if not what's the point. You can verify the battery life as easily as they can. Personally I'd save the $17 for when the battery needs replacing. Although you can do it yourself, my buddy flooded his Aeris T3 since he thought he could also. Fortunately after drying it out and having it looked at by a diveop repair person, he was able to use it later in the week - and still is a year later with no problems.

As it was related to me by the LDS Manager where I bought my regs, it is possible that a small amount of water could slip past the seat. But he was more talking about dropping the reg in the tank for an extended period of time. Just dunking it for a few seconds in a rinse tank you should be fine. I don't even know if my practice of keeping the 1st stage higher than the 2nd makes sense.

There is a little info on the Atomics website about their component use of Ti. My recollection is that the moving parts in the B2 are Ti, just the case is polished brass. But I could be wrong. A little info on their use of Ti: Atomic Aquatics: Why use Titanium for a Scuba Regulator?

Now that I have my own tanks I'll be washing/dunking everything while still pressurized to avoid that in the future.

I've seen that recommended here as well. But one thing I've never been able to ascertain is how far the orifice is moved back - enough to leak or just enough to release tension on it. In all honesty I only found that out last year, I've had a B1 since 2001 and never did anything special with it. The last time I had it serviced before selling it to my buddy the tech told me the only reason he replaced the parts is because it seemed like a waste not to since he'd taken it all apart. At that time, the reg would've had about 80 saltwater dives on it.

 

[diversteve]

I think your foolish to risk a dive, or worse your life, to save a few bucks by neglecting annual servicing. Any gear associated with life support should be serviced annually by a professional. This typically involves more than just an inspection: i.e. replace o-rings, check/replace diaphragms, springs, etc.

Except that Atomic requires only a 2 year service interval:

Factory or authorized dealer servicing is required at intervals of 300 dive hours or 2 years, whichever occurs first. This service will include disassembly, cleaning, replacement and lubrication of all o-rings and seals, and safety check.

 

[Sonic04GT]

Did you pay MSRP on the computer? If less, they weren't a dealer at that time so all warranty would be through them. It was sometime last year but I don't remember when either.

But I personally agree with the previous posters, what are they going to check? If they open it, they may as well replace the battery and if not what's the point. You can verify the battery life as easily as they can. Personally I'd save the $17 for when the battery needs replacing. Although you can do it yourself, my buddy flooded his Aeris T3 since he thought he could also. Fortunately after drying it out and having it looked at by a diveop repair person, he was able to use it later in the week - and still is a year later with no problems.

As it was related to me by the LDS Manager where I bought my regs, it is possible that a small amount of water could slip past the seat. But he was more talking about dropping the reg in the tank for an extended period of time. Just dunking it for a few seconds in a rinse tank you should be fine. I don't even know if my practice of keeping the 1st stage higher than the 2nd makes sense.

There is a little info on the Atomics website about their component use of Ti. My recollection is that the moving parts in the B2 are Ti, just the case is polished brass. But I could be wrong. A little info on their use of Ti: Atomic Aquatics: Why use Titanium for a Scuba Regulator?

The computer was purchased as a display model for $275. MSRP was around $400 I believe. It's the Veo 100 NX SWIV NAVCON.

This was like 9 months ago but I think I dunked the reg for roughly an hour in about 8 inches of water.

 

[Garrobo]

I've quit having regs serviced. You can usually buy a decent set for recreational diving new from LeisuePro for $125-150 and sell your year-old set on Ebay to about cover the difference. I've never had a BC serviced and don't see why any one would. Same for computers. What's to service?

 

[redacted]

The computer was purchased as a display model for $275. MSRP was around $400 I believe. It's the Veo 100 NX SWIV NAVCON.

This was like 9 months ago but I think I dunked the reg for roughly an hour in about 8 inches of water.

A freshwater dunking is relatively harmless; but the time to deal with that problem is as soon as you pull it out of the water. At this point, I'd put an IP gauge on it to make sure it is within specs and pull the HP hose and a couple LP hoses to look for any signs of corrosion. If IP is in spec and the reg is clean, I'd expect at least another year before you need to service. If you do a good job of cleaning the BCD after SW dives, especially the inflator, you probably will never have to pay for it to be serviced. And I would not worry about the computer except for battery changes. But it is always good to occasionally compare your computer output with your buddy's to make sure they are in reasonable agreement. I never put 100% trust in my computer.

BTW, if you would like to sample some of the local diving, let me know. Water temps should be warming up nicely now, at least above 30 to 40 ft.

 

[Sonic04GT]

Did you pay MSRP on the computer? If less, they weren't a dealer at that time so all warranty would be through them. It was sometime last year but I don't remember when either.

But I personally agree with the previous posters, what are they going to check? If they open it, they may as well replace the battery and if not what's the point. You can verify the battery life as easily as they can. Personally I'd save the $17 for when the battery needs replacing. Although you can do it yourself, my buddy flooded his Aeris T3 since he thought he could also. Fortunately after drying it out and having it looked at by a diveop repair person, he was able to use it later in the week - and still is a year later with no problems.

As it was related to me by the LDS Manager where I bought my regs, it is possible that a small amount of water could slip past the seat. But he was more talking about dropping the reg in the tank for an extended period of time. Just dunking it for a few seconds in a rinse tank you should be fine. I don't even know if my practice of keeping the 1st stage higher than the 2nd makes sense.

There is a little info on the Atomics website about their component use of Ti. My recollection is that the moving parts in the B2 are Ti, just the case is polished brass. But I could be wrong. A little info on their use of Ti: Atomic Aquatics: Why use Titanium for a Scuba Regulator?
I've seen that recommended here as well. But one thing I've never been able to ascertain is how far the orifice is moved back - enough to leak or just enough to release tension on it. In all honesty I only found that out last year, I've had a B1 since 2001 and never did anything special with it. The last time I had it serviced before selling it to my buddy the tech told me the only reason he replaced the parts is because it seemed like a waste not to since he'd taken it all apart. At that time, the reg would've had about 80 saltwater dives on it.

A freshwater dunking is relatively harmless; but the time to deal with that problem is as soon as you pull it out of the water. At this point, I'd put an IP gauge on it to make sure it is within specs and pull the HP hose and a couple LP hoses to look for any signs of corrosion. If IP is in spec and the reg is clean, I'd expect at least another year before you need to service. If you do a good job of cleaning the BCD after SW dives, especially the inflator, you probably will never have to pay for it to be serviced. And I would not worry about the computer except for battery changes. But it is always good to occasionally compare your computer output with your buddy's to make sure they are in reasonable agreement. I never put 100% trust in my computer.

BTW, if you would like to sample some of the local diving, let me know. Water temps should be warming up nicely now, at least above 30 to 40 ft.

Fresh water with a little bit of dish soap?
What is this IP gauge you speak of? Pulling the hoses is no problem.

Thanks for the offer, definitely going to need somebody to show us around when we return. Probably won't be until mid-october though since all my gear is in FL and I'm driving back with it after leave.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

...I think your foolish to risk a dive, or worse your life, to save a few bucks by neglecting annual servicing. Any gear associated with life support should be serviced annually by a professional. This typically involves more than just an inspection: i.e. replace o-rings, check/replace diaphragms, springs, etc.

Hi mk706:

I think when many of us first started diving (well, at least in my case), we were firm believers in the company line: "It's Life-Support, Get It Serviced Annually Or Else"!

The problem with this reasoning is that well-maintained and properly functioning scuba equipment rarely needs annual service, and will generally give you lots of warning when it does need to be serviced. If you abuse your equipment, store it improperly, allow salt water to enter the 1st stage, etc., then even annual service would not be enough...

One of the best things any diver can do (and I did this VERY late in my own diving career) is to learn as much as they possibly can about how their regulators work, and how to service them (even if you have no intention of performing your own repairs).

When I made the effort to do this, it gave me a far better understanding of how my "Life-Support Equipment" worked (I hate that term by the way ), more confidence in my equipment, what "symptoms" to look for to avoid/prevent future "failures", and highlighted some of the common pitfalls and problems with improperly-performed maintenance.

Especially improperly-performed maintenance on equipment that did not need it.

It is not about saving money. That is not really the issue (at least for me). It is about taking hard steel tools to soft brass regulators every time you crack open the reg. It is the risk of the tech scratching a seating surface, damaging threads, being sloppy with a pin spanner, nicking an o-ring.... in other works, trying to "fix it" when it wasn't "broken", and causing premature wear and tear.

Every piece of equipment has a time when necessary service is required to prevent failure and prolong service life. The problem is that with scuba gear, unnecessary service can have the opposite effect.

Best wishes.

 

[redacted]

Fresh water with a little bit of dish soap?
What is this IP gauge you speak of? Pulling the hoses is no problem.

This is a very economical IP gauge: Dive Rite I.P. Pressure Gauge You normally pay twice that but probably get a better quality gauge. I made mine from a Craftsman automotive compression gauge just adding the BCD to NPT connector.

The soap is an interesting twist. When I was a kid, I got my mouth washed out with soap for cussing. You may end up cussing when you get your mouth washed out with soap. I don't think you need to worry.

Mid October is great diving in central TX. Well, maybe not great, but as good as it gets.