What to get serviced?

[Sonic04GT]

This is a very economical IP gauge: Dive Rite I.P. Pressure Gauge You normally pay twice that but probably get a better quality gauge. I made mine from a Craftsman automotive compression gauge just adding the BCD to NPT connector.

The soap is an interesting twist. When I was a kid, I got my mouth washed out with soap for cussing. You may end up cussing when you get your mouth washed out with soap. I don't think you need to worry.

Mid October is great diving in central TX. Well, maybe not great, but as good as it gets.

Haha, thanks for the heads up! What exactly is that testing for and what's a nominal reading? I assume you just plug it into your BC inflator hose?

Good to hear. I'll mention it to my buddy. He's coming down to FL for the last week of our leave to go diving and then him and I are following each other back to Texas so maybe the following weekend we could get some diving in. I'll make a few posts on here when it gets closer to USA time.

http://www.leisurepro.com/Prod/AQUTPCP.html
That appears to have decent reviews.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

Haha, thanks for the heads up! What exactly is that testing for and what's a nominal reading? I assume you just plug it into your BC inflator hose?....

Hi Sonic04GT:

Take a look at this "stickied" thread in the regulator section of this board:

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/regulators/260452-regulator-checklist-inspection.html

That link has some great info on things you can easily check yourself, and many (most?) can and should be performed before each dive trip.

The IP gauge plugs into your BC inflator hose.

You can use it as a "spot-check" for correct IP (Intermediate Pressure); but one of the best ways to use the IP guage is to monitor any changes in the IP setting of your 1st stage over time, and to check for IP "creep". IP's vary with regulator brand and model, but in general fall between about 125 and 150 psi, with many regulators in the 130-145 psi range. I don't know what the correct IP is for your particular reg.

Best wishes.

 

[Teamcasa]

this equipment was purchased August 2008.
I made like 8 dives on them and they've been sitting in my closet since then.

This is a bigger problem than servicing. You just need to get out and dive more.

 

[Sonic04GT]

This is a bigger problem than servicing. You just need to get out and dive more.

Haha I wish I had a solution to that problem right now. Unfortunately, Uncle Sam believes fighting this dumb war is more important than diving.

 

[Sonic04GT]

Hi Sonic04GT:

Take a look at this "stickied" thread in the regulator section of this board:

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/regulators/260452-regulator-checklist-inspection.html

That link has some great info on things you can easily check yourself, and many (most?) can and should be performed before each dive trip.

The IP gauge plugs into your BC inflator hose.

You can use it as a "spot-check" for correct IP (Intermediate Pressure); but one of the best ways to use the IP guage is to monitor any changes in the IP setting of your 1st stage over time, and to check for IP "creep". IP's vary with regulator brand and model, but in general fall between about 125 and 150 psi, with many regulators in the 130-145 psi range. I don't know what the correct IP is for your particular reg.

Best wishes.

Thanks alot, I'll check all that stuff when I get home and avoid servicing until then.
Now, as far as the cracking pressure...my reg and octo both have sensitivity adjustment knobs. Where should these be set for this test? All the way open (easier breathing) or closed (harder breathing)? Atomic says to keep it closed until the regulator is actually in your mouth in the water to avoid free flow.

According to the manual, Intermediate Pressure for the T2, ST1, M1, B2, and Z2 is 125-145 psi

 

[diversteve]

Are you saying that you dunked it for an hour in fresh water with a little soap in it? If so I wouldn't worry about it at all. My B1 was regularly dunked in fresh water rinse tanks daily after about 80 dives and it had no discernible effect at service time as I mentioned.

The sensitivity knobs on your regs have nothing to do with cracking pressure. Your B2 has AFC so that is adjusted for you automatically.

The Automatic Flow Control ("AFC") is just one. High performance regulators are often unstable, prone to leaks and free flows. That's why manufacturers add knobs and switches to stabilize them. We do it automatically. The AFC is the first and only depth activated venturi control that automatically balances performance and stability. A computer designed airfoil inside the mouthpiece changes position with response to depth to maintain consistent, natural, and effortless breathing at all depths. No dials to turn or buttons to push, the regulator "tunes itself as you dive".

I have the same adjustment knobs on my T2/Z1 2nd's. I can't speak to your octo but the knob on the B2 is only to minimize freeflow during certain conditions - mostly entries and while at the surface. When diving it should be turned all the way out.

There is only one diver adjustable control on the second stage. It is the rapid
adjustment knob on the side of the regulator that can be used to “detune” or
increase inhalation effort. Under normal use, the knob should always be turned
all the way out (counterclockwise) for the lowest breathing effort. During entries
through the surf, jumping off of a boat, or situations where the regulator is
not in your mouth, you may want to turn the knob all the way in (clockwise) to
desensitize it. Do not leave the knob in the detune position while diving. The
common misconception that this will conserve air is not true and will only make
breathing slightly harder.

I leave my Z1 tuned all the way in as it's just my octo. I often test-breathe off it at depth and it still functions fine. It's not an on/off switch. (unlike some that have a dive/predive switch) Most of the time, I turn my T2 all the way out and leave it that way, my setup never freeflows.

 

[Sonic04GT]

Are you saying that you dunked it for an hour in fresh water with a little soap in it? If so I wouldn't worry about it at all. My B1 was regularly dunked in fresh water rinse tanks daily after about 80 dives and it had no discernible effect at service time as I mentioned.

The sensitivity knobs on your regs have nothing to do with cracking pressure. Your B2 has AFC so that is adjusted for you automatically.
I have the same adjustment knobs on my T2/Z1 2nd's. I can't speak to your octo but the knob on the B2 is only to minimize freeflow during certain conditions - mostly entries and while at the surface. When diving it should be turned all the way out.


I leave my Z1 tuned all the way in as it's just my octo. I often test-breathe off it at depth and it still functions fine. It's not an on/off switch. (unlike some that have a dive/predive switch) Most of the time, I turn my T2 all the way out and leave it that way, my setup never freeflows.

Correct, in my bathtub with some dish soap.
So the cracking pressure test doesn't apply to my regulator?
And that's what I do as well. Turn it all the way out while diving and leave my octo turned in. What did you pay for the Z1 octo? I'm thinking about replacing my Cressi with one.

 

[hudson]

The cracking pressure is how hard you need to suck in before the reg starts delivering air. The venturi assist (which is what AFC is) comes into play AFTER the regulator starts to deliver air. So, yeah, like all second stages, the cracking pressure applies.

A good technician will tune the cracking pressure to a low enough value that won't cause any leaks once the new seat takes a set. As the seat is worn down, the regulator will start freeflowing slightly with the adjustment knob all the way out, even though the IP of the first stage is still within the correct range. Then it's time to have the second stage serviced. It may take a few years for your second to get to that point. The wear on the first stage seat will depend on the number of dives.