Which steel tank?!?!

[Bob DBF]

I would agree with others that an HP100 or LP95 wout fit your requirements well. I bought the LP95 first as it was at a good price at the time, and it gives me more air when boat diving where they mostly give 3000# hot fills.

I might add that when you are looking for a tank, keep an eye out for the old steel 72's. If you are diving where you can't get a fill easily, it will give you another tank to dive rather than pack up for the day or rent. They can be had anywhere from free, do the hydro and viz, up to $100 for one in new hydro and viz. I wouldn't get one for my only tank, but it takes a while before you have too many tanks. They make great baby doubles IMHO, with a inexpensive vintage bar it is a nice 130 cuft tank.

Used tanks are a good deal, if you take the time to school yourself on how to know what you are looking at and how to evaluate the tank. It's worked quite well for me over the years.



Bob
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I swear its not hoarding dear, I'm just keeping an adequate stock of equipment and parts. It's life support, you know.

 

[tbone1004]

buy on terms that they pass hydro *they have a nastier VIP process than the scuba VIP's*, if they pass hydro they're fine. Those tanks are damn near impossible to rust, just beware they are DIN only. No provision to use a yoke regulator on them

 

[Bob DBF]

Quote Originally Posted by tbone1004 View Post
Scuba Tanks - Sherwood 100 Steel

buy those, be done with it.

Tbone saw those actually and was thinking about it. One picture appears to have rust on it though.... thoughts?

Well if those are the Hp 100's I'm thinking they are, you better have a 300 bar din on your reg. I think they are the 3500# tanks and you can not swap out the DIN valve for a yoke valve since they are different valve thread sizes. Not saying it is a bad deal, just saying it is a unusual for rec diving. Make sure that your shop can fill non-convertible DIN valves, mine can't, of course I'm in the sticks.


Bob

 

[Yoyoguy]

buy on terms that they pass hydro *they have a nastier VIP process than the scuba VIP's*, if they pass hydro they're fine. Those tanks are damn near impossible to rust, just beware they are DIN only. No provision to use a yoke regulator on them

I have a DIN regulator. I was just concerned that in one of those pics that are zoomed on on the serial numbers, it looks like black/reddish corrosion or rust. I could always have them blasted and painted but wasn't sure if that has an impact on possible rehydro since the current hydro is only good until november

 

[tbone1004]

don't blast those, they're hot dip galvanized. Not uncommon for some flash rust where the stamps are for hydro dates, but it's not that big of a deal. If it passes vip it's fine, that rust is on the thickest part of the tank, I wouldn't be concerned

 

[uncfnp]

Born on '95? Does that make them PST?

 

[tbone1004]

yes, Worthington never made 7/8 tanks to my knowledge. Only other option would be the Asahi spun tanks, but more than likely PST's

 

[uncfnp]

Ok then. As Bob pointed out replacement valves, if ever needed, could be challenging. As could doubling them up with a manifold from what I have read. Course he could do independent doubles...And there's another thread!

 

[tbone1004]

no.
Cave Adventurers will have replacement valves in a month or two that will have a crossbar available. They will be the angled back versions, but there are manifolds available presently.

 

[uncfnp]

Good to know. Thanks Tbone. Still, my point is valid that these tanks are somewhat special needs and its something worth considering if he does decide to add them to the family.