Which steel tank?!?!

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

My favorite cylinders are Faber galvanized 95's that were sold by Scubapro. Had three pairs of them for 20 years. Keep them hydro and vip religiously. Every so often I need them tumbled from moisture getting in from not so diligent air stations. [emoji41]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I knew I would eventually want a steel tank and after a recent thread debacle about "pony bottles...cough cough im a:dork2:" I have decided I would maybe bump to getting a steel tank sooner than later. (this summer instead of next). I have read many articles and threads and dang there is a ton of info out there about tanks. It appears 100cu or maybe 120cu is what im after. I will use this bottle for deeper dives (60ft-130ft) I just finished my nitrox certification and I will finish my deep diver certification soon. I doubt I will be diving often past 100ft (very very rare if ever until tech course). Looking to extend my bottom times a touch but stay in recreational limits of course. This will be a singles tank for now. I may go to a double setup later which may lead me towards a 100cu. The dive shop I go to right now can actively do a good HP fill but if they ever closed I honestly have no idea how the other shops fills are. Never went to those shops so not sure if I should consider LPs but I do like the size of the HPs better. Open to any and all thoughts! and yes I will continue to work on my SAC rates to help with my bottom time issues but either way I want a STEEL tank for better buoyancy characteristics and longer bottom times.

Build: 5'9 185lbs (slight beer belly if that matters)

Steel makes better ballast than aluminum due to it's ~3x greater density. Air remains ~8 lbs / 100 cuft no matter what the container it's in is made of.

Having said that I'd look for HP100's or LP85's Both dive pretty much the same and are reasonably close in size. Both make for reasonable "starter doubles" if you have future plans that include doubles.

I have a preference for LP tanks. For a couple reasons. 1) If you decide to cascade fill nitrox at home you will get more use from your supply bottles, 2) Easier to get complete fills.

Nothing wrong with HP tanks, and the above considerations may not apply for you, but for some it makes a difference.

About the only steels I avoid are HP80's (way to short to work well with a BP&W) and faber MP medium pressure (stamped 3180 psi) as these tend to be really negative, -6 or 7 lbs empty.

Tobin
 
I am very old school but I prefer the original steel 72s. I have tried a few other steel tanks over the decades but I still like the buoyancy caricaturists of the 72s.
 
Steel makes better ballast than aluminum due to it's ~3x greater density. Air remains ~8 lbs / 100 cuft no matter what the container it's in is made of.

Having said that I'd look for HP100's or LP85's Both dive pretty much the same and are reasonably close in size. Both make for reasonable "starter doubles" if you have future plans that include doubles.

I have a preference for LP tanks. For a couple reasons. 1) If you decide to cascade fill nitrox at home you will get more use from your supply bottles, 2) Easier to get complete fills.

Nothing wrong with HP tanks, and the above considerations may not apply for you, but for some it makes a difference.

About the only steels I avoid are HP80's (way to short to work well with a BP&W) and faber MP medium pressure (stamped 3180 psi) as these tend to be really negative, -6 or 7 lbs empty.

Tobin

My current dive shop does HP fills and I know they have a good reputation for full fills on HP tanks. The only thing I don't like about LP is that they are so big...granted I haven't worn either but the size of the HP 100 was appealing to me.
 
I bought a pair of HP100's 2 years ago. I keep them at my LDS so they can use them when I'm not. Since I bought them, I've put about 25 dives on them. The shop owners have put about 500 on them. They are some well-traveled tanks!!

I love how they feel in the water. Less lead needed and they trim out very nicely.
 
My go to tanks are lp108's, I loan these tanks to others with bpw and jacket style bc's and everyone does really well with them. Good amount of gas and you have room for overfill. Good luck on your decision.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
I am very old school but I prefer the original steel 72s. I have tried a few other steel tanks over the decades but I still like the buoyancy caricaturists of the 72s.

lead_large.jpg
...but when I do dive, I prefer a RENE 72.
 
A HP 100 is hard to beat for all round use.

Safe dives . . . . . .
. . . safer ascents !

the K
 
Faber 12l longs make great twins and dive fantastic as singles.
 
I like HP 120s for various reasons, some of which are unique to me, and not all of which are unique to steel 120s....

First off, I'm 6'3", so a little taller tank is nice for me (maybe not you at 5'9"?).
They come in 7.25, and there are a metric ton of AL80s on this island so I can switch back and forth with no cam adjustment (not a big deal, but I'm lazy).
I like the fact that it allows my beer belly and 5 mil full wetsuit to wear 6-8#s less weight.
If you can't get a full HP fill you're still looking at around 100-110 cu ft of air at a normal 3000-3100 fill which is a lot nicer than the 77 or so you're getting on an AL80 (and I like the extra air for Lionfish hunting dives, as working dives always go through more air).
Lastly filled correctly and with a slung 40 that is a metric butt ton of air for doing deep and/or solo dives.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom