Converting SL4 Xenon > LED?

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Cut a sliver of 1" PVC pipe - about 7 mm if you're using a spacer to make the connection to the battery tube. Slightly taper one inside edge of the PVC slive and gently press the DX drop-in into the PVC sliver. I used a drill press to get "square" pressure, but a padded bench vise works just as well.

Henrik
 
Cut a sliver of 1" PVC pipe - about 7 mm if you're using a spacer to make the connection to the battery tube. Slightly taper one inside edge of the PVC slive and gently press the DX drop-in into the PVC sliver. I used a drill press to get "square" pressure, but a padded bench vise works just as well.

Henrik

I tweaked my torch and made some comparisons with another sl4 that i successfully converted. I realized the problem was not with the shifting spacer. I managed to hold the spacer in place by widening the circumference of the spacer with some tapes. By mixing and matching the variables in the two torches, I isolated one of the LED bulb to be the problem. More specifically, it was the reflector. For some reasons the reflector of one bulb doesn't conduct electricity. I find this very strange as the led bulb works fine when it comes into contact with the conducting strip, When I push the bulb down and make the reflector comes into contact with the strip, the bulb doesn't light up. I guess I need to order one of those reflectors from DX and cut off the bottom to make it fit, or are there other suggestions to how I can rectify the problem?
 
Cut a sliver of 1" PVC pipe - about 7 mm if you're using a spacer to make the connection to the battery tube. Slightly taper one inside edge of the PVC slive and gently press the DX drop-in into the PVC sliver. I used a drill press to get "square" pressure, but a padded bench vise works just as well.

Henrik
Hello - is this approach for the Cree modules like from Deal Extreme, that are around 26mm (I don't have the spec in front of me) external diameter at the rim? With PVC, how do you get electrical contact between the module case and the small copper strip in the neck of the SL4 (or is this another light)? I've been using a sliver of aluminum pipe but the internal diameter is just a little larger than the module so contact can be unreliable. I've added a little kitchen foil around the module rim until I find a better bridging material.
 
Hello - is this approach for the Cree modules like from Deal Extreme, that are around 26mm

It is indeed. For conducting electricity I found some large brass washers and drilled up the center hole (used a step drill and lots of cutting oil) to just shy of the diameter of the DX drop-in body. I then gradually filed the hole larger until I got a press-fit onto the body of the DX. I pressed the washer onto the module using a bench vise and some additional PVC pipe. So now the brass washer contacts the copper strip and completes the circuit.

Hope this helps.

Henrik
 
Got a new driver in my SL4 for my R5 XP-G drop-in. It has 4x AMC 7135 drivers providing a total of approx 1.4A. Photo is attached comparing it to a SSC P7 C-bin :D
 

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I got a SST 50 from deal extreme last night. I also ordered the P7 but it didn't come yet. The SST 50 fit thr same as the R5 and R2 mods. The SST 50 is about twice as bright. I do think that it is 900 lumes but it is around 600 lumens or so. I will dive it tomorrow. I does look like it is more of a flood then a beam. The $38.50 is pretty steep price. I will post agian after I dive.
 
I got a SST 50 from deal extreme last night. I also ordered the P7 but it didn't come yet. The SST 50 fit thr same as the R5 and R2 mods. The SST 50 is about twice as bright. I do think that it is 900 lumes but it is around 600 lumens or so. I will dive it tomorrow. I does look like it is more of a flood then a beam. The $38.50 is pretty steep price. I will post agian after I dive.

I did one dive today. I had the SL4 with the sst 50 on for 30 min. It is very AWSOME!!!
The hot spot is very big. The beam was the same size as the 5 cree LED 1200 lumen mod that I have in a shock wave very nice. So yes I do think its putting out close to 900 lumes. I hope the P7 will be as bright.
 
Dang. I saw a thread on another forum and ordered the R2 for the SL4 I already have. It looks like the R5 would have been better.
 
Dang. I saw a thread on another forum and ordered the R2 for the SL4 I already have. It looks like the R5 would have been better.

I have one of each, and while the R5 seems to have a bit more light output overall, the R2 has a tighter beam, so the hotspot is brighter which is good for signaling in lower viz. The R2 can be made even "spottier" by using a mirrored reflector from DX. That reflector doesn't do anything for the R5.

Henrik
 
The easiest way

Utilizing the Deal Extreme SKU 32953 with both an SL4 and SL6, after messing around a couple of days with a dremel tool, went to the hardware store today to find something to keep everything centered etc. Ran across some 7/8" x 1 3/8" machine spacers or shims or something to that effect in the bolts & nuts special drawers at Ace, for $0.45 each. 3 placed on the backside of the reflector centers it, pushes the face to the lens and connects the contacts. Works great, no machining or soldering, just lay them on and use !!
1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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