Light recommendations
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victorzamora
Contributor
Dive Rite is using CREE XM-L2 emitters. It's the same chip most 700-1800lm backup lights are using. I think it's the same thing that Light Monkey uses in their 12W LED. Cree XM-L emitters are good for ~110W/lm and a max "real" output of about 1000lm. Of course, raw numbers don't mean as much as the "utility" of the light. Well-patterned lights can feel bigger and are better than poorly patterned lights, and I've found that that's a subjective thing. What I like in a dive light isn't necessarily what others like....but my preference will dictate which light I feel performs better, even if they should be the same on paper.
For reference, the Dive Rite LX20 should have the same output and almost the same burn time as the Light Monkey 12W on a 5Ah canister.
Dive Rite's new HP50 series should be notably more efficient given that they're using the Cree XLamp XHP50 emitters.
TrimixToo
Contributor
I'm not a cave diver, so what follows is perhaps more pertinent to wreck diving than cave diving.
My first canister light was a Dive Rite. I dove it almost a whole season before the cord got nicked and it flooded. I sent it in, and they charged me to fix it. OK, fair enough. I went back to diving with it. A year later, it happened again. I noticed the outer cover on the cord was not very thick, and I asked if there was a better cord available. No dice. They suggested it was damaged in transport to and from the dive sites. My lights live in a padded fiberglass case when not in use or on a charger, so that's not really possible. Maybe it really is only me who ever has had this problem. Maybe it's only wrecks that have sharp edges that cut their cords (shrug). In the end, I elected not to spend another chunk of money (something like $150?) to fix it again, writing off the canister and battery. Enough was enough. I didn't buy the thing to spend that kind of money to use it every year.
Next, I bought a Light Monkey. The cord is a lot tougher, with its thicker outer cover, and it's been 100% bulletproof. They later offered an emitter upgrade (more output, same burn time), which I got. Now, it's even better and still bulletproof. They do cord replacements for cheap, too, so it's very affordable to inspect and have them replaced as necessary. So far, it hasn't been, but they did replace the cord when they did the emitter upgrade (thanks, guys!).
Then I started diving with someone who has the UWLD 3500 lumen light. When he came up behind me, the spot my light was pointed at became a slightly less dark part of my shadow. Holy crap! Then I looked at his light. There are no catches to trap line, no switch boot to fail, and no need to remove the canister lid to charge the light. The emitter's color temperature cuts through murk like nothing else I have seen. It comes with an abrasion resistant cover over the cord. I had to have one. It's been bulletproof too. My sole complaint is that the gates on the SS bolt snaps are too small to fit over the D-rings I have on my harnesses. But they are, of course, easy to replace, and nobody else's lights even came with bolt snaps.
Both Bobby (the UWLD himself) and the LM crew provide exceptionally good service.
My LM is now a faithful backup. I remachined the DR head to accept a different gland assembly, put on a tough cord with thick insulation, and plumbed it into my Blue Heat battery. I have had no problems with it since. So now in really cold water I dive with two primary lights, the UWLD and the DR. In less cold water, still two, but the UWLD and LM.
For backup, I have two of the older style DRIS 1000 lumen lights. They, too, have been trouble free.
Your mileage may, of course, vary.
My first canister light was a Dive Rite. I dove it almost a whole season before the cord got nicked and it flooded. I sent it in, and they charged me to fix it. OK, fair enough. I went back to diving with it. A year later, it happened again. I noticed the outer cover on the cord was not very thick, and I asked if there was a better cord available. No dice. They suggested it was damaged in transport to and from the dive sites. My lights live in a padded fiberglass case when not in use or on a charger, so that's not really possible. Maybe it really is only me who ever has had this problem. Maybe it's only wrecks that have sharp edges that cut their cords (shrug). In the end, I elected not to spend another chunk of money (something like $150?) to fix it again, writing off the canister and battery. Enough was enough. I didn't buy the thing to spend that kind of money to use it every year.
Next, I bought a Light Monkey. The cord is a lot tougher, with its thicker outer cover, and it's been 100% bulletproof. They later offered an emitter upgrade (more output, same burn time), which I got. Now, it's even better and still bulletproof. They do cord replacements for cheap, too, so it's very affordable to inspect and have them replaced as necessary. So far, it hasn't been, but they did replace the cord when they did the emitter upgrade (thanks, guys!).
Then I started diving with someone who has the UWLD 3500 lumen light. When he came up behind me, the spot my light was pointed at became a slightly less dark part of my shadow. Holy crap! Then I looked at his light. There are no catches to trap line, no switch boot to fail, and no need to remove the canister lid to charge the light. The emitter's color temperature cuts through murk like nothing else I have seen. It comes with an abrasion resistant cover over the cord. I had to have one. It's been bulletproof too. My sole complaint is that the gates on the SS bolt snaps are too small to fit over the D-rings I have on my harnesses. But they are, of course, easy to replace, and nobody else's lights even came with bolt snaps.
Both Bobby (the UWLD himself) and the LM crew provide exceptionally good service.
My LM is now a faithful backup. I remachined the DR head to accept a different gland assembly, put on a tough cord with thick insulation, and plumbed it into my Blue Heat battery. I have had no problems with it since. So now in really cold water I dive with two primary lights, the UWLD and the DR. In less cold water, still two, but the UWLD and LM.
For backup, I have two of the older style DRIS 1000 lumen lights. They, too, have been trouble free.
Your mileage may, of course, vary.
LiteHedded
Contributor
that dive rite stuff is junk. stepping up to halcyon/LM/uwld is a big upgrade
Another vote for the DiveRite LX20. It performs much better than the specs would make you believe. I had it die once due to operator stupidity - I used it on numerous recreational dives over a month period, and it kept working, so I never thought to charge it. Now I charge it before most dive days. Very solidly built, and no cord to damage
halocline
Contributor
I have a LM 21watt HID and I love it. Lots of folks will say that HID is obsolete but I love the quality of light, color, and focus. I bought the light head used from LM and it came with a new canister, about 1/2 price of a new light with the same warranty.
If I were buying new at this point I'd certainly look at UWLD and LM LED lights. It seems that every year a new lught comes out that everyone loves, so there are lots of options.
wcs563
Registered
I have owned an Underwater Light Dude 3500 lumen LED primary for over two years now and no issues. It has a 160 WH lithium battery (Tall style) that is airline safe for travel (TSA approved), it has a penzo switch on the head with three power settings. The canister is a latch less design, and you don't have to open it to charge that battery, just place it in the charging cradle at the end of the day to charge, it has two pins on the bottom of the battery compartment that are sealed of course and send electrons to your battery. You can order side gland or top gland for your cable routing preference out of the canister. Very durable and excellent customer service.
LiteHedded
Contributor
HID is a fine choice. especially if you aren't traveling a lot and the bulbs are readily available. if you travel a lot i'd make the jump to led because it's a bit more robust. I personally kept diving HID for a long while after most of my dive buddies switched to led because the technology wasn't where i wanted it to be.
with the release of the focus 2.0 from halcyon, i was convinced and made the switch. I own one of these, and a flare for a backup primary light
Long time 18/21W HID user (10 yrs). I am a "late adopter" but finally bit the bullet and upgraded to a UWLD. The difference is stunning - in a good way. I had a 10W HID dive rite long long ago, used it in my first cave classes. The DR lights are ok but the LM/Halcyon and UWLD lights are a step up and you are unlikely to outgrow them for many years.
As I started looking for some good Cave Lithts can't seems to find any hi-end light. As far for now I'm thinking about Bigblue TL18000P but it could be overkill as the head is quite bulky and big in dimensions. And not sure if there is some review for this light avalible seems for now that nobody who use this lite made some review. I'm looking for some strong beam LED light for caves what are your Top choices ??
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